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Samsung Ice Maker replacement RSG257AARS

ice maker samsung wiring

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8 replies to this topic

#1 DanInKansas

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Posted 01 February 2012 - 11:00 PM

This is a side by side refrigerator with the icemaker in the freezer door.

Currently the IM makes no ice. Put the IM through a test cycle; it went through the motions of harvesting and dumped water, but did not produce ice in 48 hours. Freezer temp is good (0 deg F) as is airflow.

Got a new IM assembly to put in. Three screws hold the IM in place, but once you remove these screws, the wire harness clip is inside the door itself.

There's a plastic panel under the IM, set into the door. This panel is in kind of an "L" shape, and at the bottom of the L are the motor and augur. I took out about 9 screws and started jiggling and working this panel, so as to get to the wire harness clip. Something in the top right of the panel is holding that panel on really tightly. Tried working around the panel with a putty knife, then a thin flat-blade screw driver. The panel has some give, but if the right side is moving, the left isn't, and vice versa.

Anyone know how I can get to the wire harness clip and change this out? I tried reaching up through the small hole where the wire harness goes into, but can't feel the clip; there's a small bulge in the panel where I think that clip is hiding.

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#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 02 February 2012 - 08:30 AM

This one's a little less than obvious. You need to remove the bucket assembly and then four screws holding the ice maker/augur assembly. Then there's a tricky little squeeze-pull play on the left side to get the auger/ice maker assembly out. This procedure has befuddled many a seasoned appliance and Samsung included a special page in their Fast Track manual for this refrigerator showing how to do this. The Fast Track manual is available in the Downloads section of this site ==> http://appliantology...hooting-manual/

You'll need to be an Apprentice to download it but it's a good investment to make in your Fixite Do skills. :thumbsup:

#3 DanInKansas

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Posted 02 February 2012 - 07:03 PM

Colleague of mine worked his way around this by leaving the old harness in place, removing the new harness from the new IM, and then attaching the old harness to the new IM. He was in and out the door in 30 minutes, but now I'm thinking -- if there's a bad connection in that clip, we're going to be called back to that little beast.

@Samurai: Is there a good deal of Samsung and LG stuff available for Apprentices? We have no tech support for them, and I'm running into more and more of their products.

#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 03:30 PM

@Samurai: Is there a good deal of Samsung and LG stuff available for Apprentices? We have no tech support for them, and I'm running into more and more of their products.


There's a good bit in the Appliance Repair Manual Stash Access File®

And we're uploading new stuff all the time to the Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper

And if you need something that's not there, we can usually get it for you; just post a request in the Appliance Service Manual Requests forum.

#5 Moostafa

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Posted 04 February 2012 - 10:54 AM

Hello, Samurai, my manual friend. Does the repair manual stash have anything on the Scrotum Scrubber 2000®? The pinion gears in the transmission of mine are worn down from sand getting in them and I need the service manual to help me rebuild it. I would be most grateful for any assistance you could provide.

Allahu Akbar!


#6 john63

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Posted 04 February 2012 - 12:30 PM

Year/Make/Model ?

Most Soviet vehicles are obsolete. :)
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#7 john63

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Posted 04 February 2012 - 03:10 PM

Oops---for a second there---I thought you were having problems with a pinion-gear on an old *vehicle*...

Not a....well, whatever-the-hell-it-is...

Use your wives many hands instead.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#8 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 04 February 2012 - 03:18 PM

Hello, Moostafa, my twisted friend. We're in the process of uploading all the service manuals for the Scrotum Scrubber XL® series of personal hygiene appliance for men. But it will take us several more days before these are available. In the meantime, I have some information on various other types of scrotum scrubbers, including the Scrotum Scrubber 2000®, here ==> Scrotum Scrubber Roundup

#9 timothyhulse

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 09:45 AM

 

The symptoms i was having:

 

Samsung Refrigerator RSG257AAPN wasn't making ice anymore

There was no water in the tray either.

Using the test button, the tray would fill up so that proved to me that the pump was fine.  Subsequent test button presses would eject the ice that was about 1/3 of the normal size.

The icemaker just wasn't calling for more ice to be made even hours after the "test" ice was dumped.

 

I ordered a new icemaker unit DA97-07549B here.

 

The fast track manual mentioned here was very helpful.  Allowed me to replace my entire icemaker in less than 15 minutes, the CORRECT way without having to mess around with pulling the harness apart.  I read on another forum that some repair guy was telling people, go ahead and pull the wiring harness off as this is how it's done in the FIELD!  Exactly the reason why i like doing this sort of repair myself as i hate paying good money to repair people to do a job half-@ssed.  You can keep the harness intact, you just need to know where to press/pull in order to gain access to the molded plug at the end.

 

The only difference between the new icemaker part that was shipped is that the screw holes for the heater cover are slightly smaller so i can't put the heater plate back on without finding some new screws.  Will head down to the HW store today to take care of that.







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