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Lyall Wood

Beaumark (BEF332CES0) Dryer Drum Spins but Won't Heat

16 posts in this topic

This dryer has me stomped. I do not want to buy a bunch of parts. This what I have done so far:

1) Checked continuity on the Thermo Limiter, Thermostat, High Limiter, & Heater coil.

2) Checked voltage on the dryer (L1 B&W = 117; L2 R& W = 117; Across B&R =0)

3) Replaced 30 amp Breaker in Breaker Box... Didn't need it but was an immediate test/fix.

Is there a way to test the Heater Relay (has 3 settings Low, Medium, High)?

Any other tests or things I should check?

Thank you.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

... Checked voltage on the dryer (L1 B&W = 117; L2 R& W = 117; Across B&R =0)

is this a new installation ?

B&R should be 240v

what type of Circuit Breaker are you using ?

A "dual breaker" on one side of the Breaker box ?

Is this Breaker Box separate from the "Main" Breaker Box ??

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No this is an existing unit and Breaker Box. It was working for the last 2 yrs or so. The circuit breaker is a dual 30 Amp StabLoc. It is located on one side on the Break box and is Staggered in the box. This is the main breaker box for the house. I realize that it should be 240 across the R & B and that is why I am stumped.

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... It is located on one side on the Break box

... and is Staggered in the box.

1) yes

2) yes, right above each other

Check the voltages at the Dryer Outlet with the Dryer Cord un-plugged

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You may be getting 120v on both lines from the same leg of your main power coming into your house. You need both 120v legs from the power company to get 240v. It is possible to lose one leg of your power and show 120v on both lines to ground by getting crossover through the appliance or any other things needing 220v. Check for 220v right at the breaker. If its not there you have a bad breaker, something wrong in your breaker panel, or a lost leg of your power somewhere between there and the transformer outside on the electric pole or in a transformer box on the ground near your property line. (you should notice some other things not working and/or some of your lights will be dimmer than before if that was the case.) FYI: the power company deals with anything outside of your electric meter in most cases.

Sorry, do what reguspatoff said. He posted while I was writing. His is a better first step. I was thinking more like a electrician and less like an appliance guy :) that might complicate things...

Edited by Bullstok

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Thank you.for your input. I will test the outlet. Everything checked out in the breaker box. Did that before I posted. Sorry.

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Checked the wires going to the outlet. B&W 118 R&W 0 B&R 0.... the drama continues...

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then, with the Dryer Cord still disconnected

check the voltages at the Breakers

May be a bad connection in the Dryer Wall Outlet

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I disconnected the red cable from the outlet tested btn the B & W 118V btn the R&W 0 and btn the B&R is 0.

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... and at the Circuit Breakers ?

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looks like there's an "open" in the RED wiring somewhere between the Breaker Box and the Wall Outlet

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How old is your house? Anything built in the last 30 or 40 years should likely have a continuous wire from the panel to the dryer outlet and should not have a broken conductor (unless a nail hit it or something). If you have a old house or a remodeled house or "less than professional" wiring, check for junction boxes, electric tape or wire nuts. Check every connection in the circuit you can get to. Junctions tend to loosen over time from expansion, contraction, vibration, etc. This type of thing can be a real pain in the ass. Junctions could be buried in the floor, walls, attic, basement, or crawlspace. It may be easier to run a new wire if that is possible. Feel lucky though, before the wire came appart, it could have caused a fire. Also there are expensive tools that some electricians may have to trace the wire behind the walls but it's gonna cost plenty.

Edited by Bullstok

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My thoughts exactly RegUS_PatOff and Bullstok. Not what you want to hear when troubleshooting but I knew before replacing components in the Dryer I wanted make sure it was receiving the proper voltage. I will let you know what happens. This is a Modular home that got placed on a full basement (an after thought) by the previous owners.

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Well IF it is a double wide modular house and IF the main electric panel and the dryer are on opposite halves of the house, I may have good news for you. There are usually sets of junctions used to plug the house halves togeter when they reach property site from the factory. Some times they are in attics near the ends, in closets behind access panels, or below the house. There maybe several sets of them in different locations. They are always at the middle junction line of the house obviously. Find these. They have quick connectors and are sometimes not very reliable and come loose. Test for power loss there. I have seen many failures like this.

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Well, I am glad to say the issue is resolved. I did more thinking and thought "No they wouldn't do that...." But guess what ...they did. When it was just a modular home the laundry was upstairs. When it got moved downstairs, instead of running a fresh line from the breaker box to dryer... they added a new line patched into the old outlet. Not wired together but paired up in the outlet itself. So two outlets were on this breaker. I checked the line and found the red going to the basement and sure enough it had loosened and there went my other half of voltage. Everything is wired up properly as I can and retested. Dryer is working just like it use to. Thanks so much for the assistance.

Lyall

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