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Rheem 21vp50e-1A need owner's manual to change sacrificial rod

Rheem water heater

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4 replies to this topic

#1 Jocelyn Karole Lian

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Posted 05 February 2012 - 06:19 PM

Does anyone have a copy of the owner's manual for Rheem water heater? I haven't changed it for 5 years; not sure if it's worth it at this point. I just read that you only need to change it once every 5 years, so I want to give it a try.



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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 05 February 2012 - 07:19 PM

depends on your water quality...
from a Rheem Water Heater Use & Care Manual:

Anode Rod
This water heater is equipped with an anode rod designed to prolong the life of the glass lined tank.
The anode rod is slowly consumed, thereby eliminating or minimizing corrosion of the glass lined tank.
Water sometimes contains a high sulfate and/or mineral content and together with cathodic protection process
can produce a hydrogen sulfide, or rotten egg odor in the heated water.
Chlorination of the water supply should minimize the problem

The anode rod should be removed from the water heater’s tank annually for inspection
and replaced when more than 6”(15 cm) of core wire is exposed at either end of the rod.
Make sure the cold water supply is turned off before removing anode rod.

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#3 dbirkett

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Posted 19 October 2012 - 10:42 AM

Should just look like a plug in the top of the tank, unscrew it and take a look

#4 Ghost

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Posted 12 January 2015 - 04:29 PM

Just a thought here.  After draining mine (same type of w.h.) I tried to pull out the anode.  I think it takes a 15/16" socket.  That baby was not going anywhere even with a breaker bar and some healthy blows.  It would probably take an impact tool to get mine out- if ever.  I was moving the tank around with the wrench.  Not good.

 

Ghost


That figures!

#5 Radio Loco

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Posted 12 January 2015 - 06:37 PM

Yeah they are extremely tough to get out. I use a two foot long 1/2" drive breaker bar with a cheater bar and an impact and sometimes they just won't budge. Permanently seized. Which tells me they were never changed and by then, they are rusted shut. Even with a second set of muscles helping. Socket size is correct. You may be better off replacing the water heater, depending on its age. If you do get a new one, place water heater on its side, still in the box, loosen the anode and apply a quality antiseize thread compound. Tighten anode and then it's ready at the 3-5 year change out time.

Good luck.
I think this will work. I downloaded the app.

Or, on the other hand.....

Troubleshooting modern appliance's complex electronic and electro-mechanical systems is the methodology in which one must, by using analyitical techniques and the process of elimination, determine the cause or causes of a specific failure. Rarely does this cause of a failure directly present itself for you to see.

So.....To be better equipped to troubleshoot, you will need:

1.) To follow this: Safety first and foremost. Heed to and trust your instincts.
2.) Basic hand tools.
3.) A decent DVOM meter. Buy one. Borrow one. You need one.
4.) Last, but certainty not least, common sense. Most of us have it. Slow down and use it.

Now, let's have some fun!

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Success is the maximum utilization of the ability you have.

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It always seems impossible until it's done.

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