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GE GTS22WCMBRWW which control board

refrigerator ge control board

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#1 luptonma

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 07:26 PM

I have an 8 year old GE GTS22ICMBRWW top freezer that came with our new house (builder supplied). The compressor had stopped working intermittently a few years ago. After much consternation I pulled the main board completely out and saw that the connectors had just about the worst solder job I'd ever seen. Some of the connector pins had broken loose and were making intermittent contact. After I resoldered all the connector pins it worked great until we got back from Christmas with the family this past December. We came home to an ice tray full of warm water and some thawed food.

This time when I pulled the main board I found a large black stain on the back under the main compressor relay which had apparently expelled all its magic smoke. I priced control boards and decided that over $100 was more than an 8 year old fridge was worth and we ended up spending nearly $1200 on a new Kenmore model 7160 (795.7160.012) with a bottom freezer and french doors on the fridge. This has been very nice the past few months but I'm thinking about fixing up the old fridge and selling or donating it since it seems to be in good shape aside from the burned out main board.

Being cheap the first thing I tried was swapping the obviously toasted relay with a similar sized one I scavenged from an old UPS that turned out to be less uninterruptable than advertised. With the board reconnected the compressor came on but the evaporator fan never seemed to run. I gather that it only runs enough to keep the refrigerator compartment cool while the compressor runs enough to keep the freezer cool. Since the fridge is in the unheated garage it seems likely that even with both controls set to 9 the evap fan would just never kick in. Unfortunately when I last had a chance to look at the fridge even the compressor isn't kicking on now so I suspect that there are more problems than a bad relay. Generally relays won't self destruct the way this one did without some additional voltage on the 12 volt coil from somewhere upstream.

I've done some extensive web searching and have found several control boards listed for this GE fridge. Apparently some of GE's original boards from this era were so bad that GE offered free repairs for some models. So it may very well be that I shouldn't get a board that looks identical to the one I have.

The WR55X10086 looks identical to the board I have but as I said it may be a defective design.
The WR55X10942 pops up on repairclinic.com if I search for GTS22WCMBRWW

My question is would either work or should I pick the one that looks like what I'm replacing.

Max L.


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#2 Skiter29

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 07:41 PM

the WR55X10942 will look differnt than the one u took off but its the new one that also works for the side by side refs there will be some extra connections on there but you will know where yours go

#3 luptonma

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 08:02 PM

Just to follow up, the recommended board worked like a charm and the fridge is running fine now. I have to sell it on Craigslist now though because my wife won't let me keep it in the garage full of beer :-(. If anyone is interested check the Northern VA listings.

Max




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