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Steve C

LG LFX25960SB Refrigerator making growling noise and ice maker sticking

26 posts in this topic

My LG LFX25960SB Refrigerator has two issues:

1. There are periodic, and sometimes lengthy, periods where there is a fairly loud growling noise. The noise will temporarily stop when either of the two refrigerator doors are opened, then begin again when closed. Opening the bottom freezer door will not stop the noise. I did run "TEST mode" and in TEST 1 & 2 (Compressor and Freezer Fan ON) there was that noise, while in TEST 3 (Compressor and Freezer Fan OFF) there was not. Also, in reading your FAQ's, my conclusion is that the freezer evaporator fan motor needs to be replaced. Do you have any other thoughts? If you suspect this also, what are the "don't let this happen to you" warnings? Should I replace the fan as well as the motor? What about any of the other components? I would like to have as many of the parts potentially needed on hand before taking the old one out.

2. The ice maker will not run automatically. The Function TEST did not seem to be operating. Basically, the Automatic Shut off Arm will not move on its own. If you manually push the arm down, the ice that has been made will slowly be ejected, the water will then run, ice will be made in about an hour, and the arm will be then in the up position, with the ice still in the molds. If you push the arm down again, that same sequence happens. What are your thoughts and suggestions?

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1. There are periodic, and sometimes lengthy, periods where there is a fairly loud growling noise.

Do Test 1 then Test 3 and listen for if you hear the noise in both tests or just one (and which one).

2. The ice maker will not run automatically.

Test the icemaker by holding the FILL key for 3 seconds. The icemaker should run thru Harvest --> Fill --> Icemaking.

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1. Right now is one of the periodic periods where the growling noise is unnoticeable. However, two nights ago when the growling noise was fairly loud and at that time, the noise would cease when the refrigerator doors were opened, and would begin again when the refrigerator doors were closed. The noise continued when the freezer door was opened. I also ran Tests 1, 2 and 3 when the noise was loud and the noise would continue during Test 1 and 2, the noise would cease during Test 3. After a "hard" reset (unplugging and then plugging in the refrigerator), the noise was loud again.

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2. Prior to running the test on the ice maker, the water level indicator light was at medium; the shut off arm was down, and there were ice cubes in the auger. When I began the test, the water level indicator light went to high, the motor did run and after several minutes did "harvest" the ice cubes. Then nothing happened...no fill! The water level indicator light remained on high. I then turned off the ice maker and turned it back on. The water level indicator light returned to the original medium position and it appears as though the control arm has moved slightly up but not all the way .Thirty minutes later there is still no fill. I turned off the ice maker, then on, and lightly pushed the control arm to the down position and ran the test again, this time with no ice cubes in the auger. The test ran through the complete "cycle" (Harvest - Fill - Ice making) with all of the correct light indicators during the test. I am confident that after the ice making cycle completes the ice will remain in the auger and not harvest just as it hadn't before I ran the test the first time this evening.

Hope that this helps!

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To confirm, after the ice maker "Test" last night and a successful Harvest - Fill - Ice Making cycle. The frozen ice is still in the auger (no Harvest) and the shut off arm is up and will above the level of ice that is in the ice bucket.

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Hello, are you there Grand Master? I have been waiting patiently, and sober, eight days for a response from you

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1. Right now is one of the periodic periods where the growling noise is unnoticeable. However, two nights ago when the growling noise was fairly loud and at that time, the noise would cease when the refrigerator doors were opened, and would begin again when the refrigerator doors were closed. The noise continued when the freezer door was opened. I also ran Tests 1, 2 and 3 when the noise was loud and the noise would continue during Test 1 and 2, the noise would cease during Test 3. After a "hard" reset (unplugging and then plugging in the refrigerator), the noise was loud again.

The damper is controlled by a stepper motor which can make weird grinding noises. You can run the tests while looking at the damper while it's opening and closing an see if the noise is coming from it.

2. Prior to running the test on the ice maker, the water level indicator light was at medium; the shut off arm was down, and there were ice cubes in the auger. When I began the test, the water level indicator light went to high, the motor did run and after several minutes did "harvest" the ice cubes. Then nothing happened...no fill! The water level indicator light remained on high. I then turned off the ice maker and turned it back on. The water level indicator light returned to the original medium position and it appears as though the control arm has moved slightly up but not all the way .Thirty minutes later there is still no fill. I turned off the ice maker, then on, and lightly pushed the control arm to the down position and ran the test again, this time with no ice cubes in the auger. The test ran through the complete "cycle" (Harvest - Fill - Ice making) with all of the correct light indicators during the test. I am confident that after the ice making cycle completes the ice will remain in the auger and not harvest just as it hadn't before I ran the test the first time this evening.

Do you mean ice cubes in the ice maker mold or in the augur screw in the ice bucket?

BTW, the manual for this refrigerator is in the Downloads section here ==>

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Thanks for the tips and the SM!

I will run the test again and check the damper. That should be helpful info as the noise does continue when the freezer is open.

Sorry for the misuse of the word "auger", as the ice cubes were/are in the ice maker MOLD.

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Aside from the evaporator fan motor in the freezer there is a ice room fan motor assmy behind the evaporator panel as well. I will refer to it as "IF". It comes on when the thermistor in the ice room in the refrigerator door senses a temp rise and a call for ice production at the same time. The IF will be turned off when the refrigerator door is opened. It will not be turned off when the freezer door is opened. There is a known issue with the first IF's where it would gather frost in the inside of the blower housing from the defrost mode. There is also a later developement of the IF circuitry being damaged by moisture intrusion. I believe you have frost / ice in the IF assmy. The redesign of the IF housing has an enlarged section at the bottom for the moisture to collect and drip out. The evaporator panel will have to be changed as well if changing from the first design to the second and third. The third design simply seals the wiring better where it enters the IF housing. If you have the second design just defrost and remove the moisture from the entire assmy and seal the wiring entry point with silicone when reassembling. Make sure the assmy is completely dry. To make sure it's the IF turn the ice maker off by the rocker switch to see if the noise stops. Turning the IM off stops the call for ice production and thereby turns off the IF.

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I think Clman is correct as to where your noises are coming from. I'm not sure why you need to be moving that ice arm lever though when cycling. It should move into postion on its own. Maybe the ice maker is bad as well. Some input from others would be great though. I've only had one that wouldn't harvest the ice unless I moved the metal arm manually. I replaced the ice maker, and I don't think I got a recall on it.

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To both clman and BryanS ~

You guys are terrific and spot on! As for the noise, I took everything apart today and it was pretty easy with the help of the SM. There was a ton of ice in the IF assembly and I let everything melt. BTW in case in the future I need to replace that IF fan, housing, evaporator panel etc IS THAT IF FAN ON THE POSITION DIAGRAM NUMBER 420A and PART NUMBER 4681JB1029D? The reason I ask is that this motor was replaced under warranty about four years ago and that motor had a red sticker with both numbers 5209JA1044A and 4681JB1029E on it. There was also a ton of ice around the DEFROST-CONTROL ASSEMBLY. I used a blow dryer to melt that. Then I put everything together and now it is running quieter than ever!

I did purchase an EVAPORATOR MOTOR, BLADE, GROMMET, SEAL, and BRACKET from you guys at RepairClinic.com and the prices for all were great and around $ 53.00 including shipping! I did not install those but will keep them as spares in case I need them later.

I did have one small issue on the re-install as one of the two screws from the guide rails (Step 3 in Section 3-20 of the SM) is stripped but somewhat secure. I really would like to replace that screw. Do you have a part number for that?

As for the ice maker, I was able to find a brand new complete assembly 4681JA1006K on eBay for $ 76.00 including shipping and just replaced the Ice maker component AEQ36756901. It took all of ten minutes and most of that was fiddling with the wire harness which didn't have a lot of extra wire length to work with in that tight space. The ice maker is now working perfectly!

Thank you so much for your expert responses and please let me know about the IF Motor and guide rail screw part numbers.

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Just to be clear LG refers to the evaporator panel as a duct assmy. The fan assmy is called just that, "fan assmy". The "dust assmy" evap panel has to be changed in the cases as I described above. LGs defrost controllers go bad a lot. If there is abmormal frost on the product and around the evap fan motor the controller needs to be changed. Unless they have something available here you'll have to get the screw from a hardware store.

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Sweet! Thank you so much!! I will continue to monitor noises and probable ice build up and proceed with the "re-build" when necessary. The screw BTW is the top one.

Edited by Steve C

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Good stuff. Yea, that connector for that that ice maker assembly can be a pain. I'm glad everything worked out :)

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Hey Clman. Speaking of that defrost controller. On some jobs where I have had a lot of ice up top and you see ice buildup just around the vent on the back wall. Our tech support says its from the evap fan coming on in a defrost or something to that effect. My question for you has just changing the controller assembly fixed this problem for you? Our tech support recommends changing the board and controller assembly. I just want to know if the board has been an issue for you because I hate to charge customers for that board if it isn't needed.

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The defrost controller is telling the pcb to come out of defrost too soon. Thereby curculating steam around which gets sorta flash frozen and explodes into frost and eventually accumulates to the point of stopping the fan and other stuff. I NEVER have to change the board. However I do recall on the eariler models that the issue showed up on that the timing in m.pcb software the was changed to a longer delay after the thermistor said it was ok to go back to cooling. Still, and again, as I said just changing the defrost controller solves the problem.

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Cool thanks. I just had one this week out of warranty and I had to quote them $435 for the repair. This fridge wasn't even two years. They were pissed, but thats the repair I knew. They declined the estimate. The lady decided she was just going to keep defrosting it lol. I guess if I get it back I will just change the controller :) Thanks again for the info. I've only been doing this a little over a year, so any bit helps.

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Well, it looks like getting rid of all of that ice DID NOT stop the noise from coming back.

I just ordered the following parts for the "re-build" from RepairClinic.com:

- Damper Fan Motor Assembly (pictured above)
- Guide Rail Screws (top one pictured above)
- Defrost Sensor with Fuse (pictured above)
- Cover (pictured above)

I also ordered a "Bracket, motor" # 4810JJ0003A (in case I need it for the Evaporator Fan Motor for the new Cover)

I might as well replace the Evaporator Fan Motor at the same time...it seems that the part number for this has changed so should I use # 4681JB1027C (already purchased from RepairClinic.com) OR # 4681JB1029E (just purchased from RepairClinic.com)?

PLEASE let me know if there is any other parts I might need for this "re-build" so I can order them today and have everything I MIGHT need shipped all together.

Thanks!

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I plan on doing this "re-build" this weekend. PLEASE let me know if the correct Evaporator Fan Motor is # 4681JB1027C or # 4681JB1029E as I will have both of them. Additionally, the Bracket # 4810JJ0003A, for the correct Evaporator Fan Motor, is on back order. Will the old bracket from the old cover work with the new motor on the new cover?

Thanks!

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I wish I could help with the part numbers, but our company always has to call our tech support to go on LG's website for exact part numbers. If you bought both fan motors, make sure the plugs fit the connector, and I would note which way the original motor spins(clockwise or counterclockwise). If the connector fits and it spins in the right direction it should work fine. You are refering to evap motor and not the ice room fan motor right?

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Thanks BryanS! I am sure I will be able to figure out what is the right one and yes I am asking about the Evaporator Motor. But if anybody can give me the correct part number and if the old bracket will fit it on a new cover I would really appreciate it.

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I don't see any reason why the bracket wouldn't work. I haven't changed that cover before, so let us know how it goes.

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4681JB1027C is the correct efm part number as listed by LG. There are no service bulletions regarding a change in the efm. If you are installing the 4681JB1027C motor, being it is the correct one, it will work with the existing bracket. The part specs did not change, only the number ( due to a vender change most likley ). You change all that and I cant see you having any more problems. Have fun.

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