8 replies to this topic

[djgiesbrecht]

Sounds electrical, like a relay. I haven't pulled any covers, and we are getting hot water. No other symptoms. I just recently noticed this and am trying to determine if it is normal, or should I dig into it?

[jumptrout]

The water heater will cycle on and off periodically to keep the water at the set temperature.
If it stays on constantly,the water will get too hot and the overload thermostat should trip.
You may have a downstream leak causing it to heat more often.
If you are on a municipal water supply with a meter,you can turn off all water sources and watch the meter.
If it is turning,you have a leak.
Otherwise,you are probably fine.

[djgiesbrecht]

My concern isn't that it is cycling. It's that it is doing so very noisily. I would have thought that it would have a solid-state relay, rather than electro-mechanical. I guess I will have to open it up and watch it cycle.

[RegUS_PatOff]

from the
Installation Instructions and Use & Care Guide
The Electronic Thermostat consists of an electronics box that contains a low voltage power supply,
the thermostat set point knob,relays to switch between the upper and lower heating elements,
one control thermistor, a connector for the lower element control thermistor, microelectronics
to convert the thermistor signals and perform switching and other logic functions, and a connector to tie the
Electronic Thermostat (ET) to the Energy Smart® Module (ESM) located on the front of the water heater jacket.
The majority of the self-diagnostics are located in the Electronic Thermostat (ET), including the dry-fi re protection intelligence.
The thermostat circuit is designed so that when the upper heating element calls for heat, the power is directed
to that element even if the lower element is also calling for heat.

[djgiesbrecht]

I have an older model than the one shone, without digital readouts. Mine was purchased in 2005. I found the manual for it. (BTW, should I upload my manual to the forum?) The symptoms are settling down. Now I have no hot water at all and the blinking error light tells me that it hit the high limit. After cutting the power, I discovered that one of the 4 control relays, (controls the lower element) is permanently closed, thus the lower element gets continuous power and eventually trips the safety relays. I will be calling Whirlpool in the morning for a board replacement under warranty. Wish me luck.

[djgiesbrecht]

I uploaded the manual for this Whirlpool EE3J40RD045V Electric Water Heater, circa 2005

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

I uploaded the manual for this Whirlpool EE3J40RD045V Electric Water Heater, circa 2005

Domo!

[djgiesbrecht]

Final report - I called the Whirlpool warranty number and talked to a very nice service person. She asked me a couple questions about symptoms and ohm readings for the two sensors (~40K each) and two elements (14 ohms each). Since these are correct, she concluded that my board was faulty. As I had a twelve year warranty on both the tank and other components, she shipped a new board to me FedEx overnight, no charge. I installed it, applied power, and everything works.
Thank you, Whirlpool. You have done everything exactly right to make it right.

[RegUS_PatOff]

... Whirlpool warranty number and talked to a very nice service person.
... shipped a new board to me FedEx overnight, no charge. I installed it, applied power, and everything works.
... Thank you, Whirlpool. You have done everything exactly right to make it right.