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Dacor ED30 Dishwasher vibration on drain, dishes not coming out clean and rack problems


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9 replies to this topic

#1 jeremyb

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Posted 13 February 2012 - 12:15 AM

Oh Grand Fermented Master of Appliance Bliss,

Humbly I beseech thee for wisdom.

Here are the problems:

1) Major vibrations when the washer drains and does not seem to clean the dishes thoroughly. I think these issues are related. I have removed the screens from the machine and cleaned everything in the "well" at the bottom of the unit but the problem seems to be getting worse as time goes by.

2) The top rack as plastic and nylon bearings that go between the stainless steel slides that it rides on and every single one of them has fallen out so the rack keeps falling off. Do I need to replace the slides or can new bearings be purchased and installed?

3) The bottom rack does not seem to fit quite right. Every dishwasher we get seems to have this problem. The wheels do not seem to ride correctly on the tracks that are part of the sides of the tub. The wheels seem to be to narrow and not ride on the track properly. Any ideas?

Thank you for your wisdom.

- Grasshopper

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#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 13 February 2012 - 01:48 AM

Whoowee, I thought Dacor bought all these old dogs back. They had such horrendous problems that they actually spent boocoo $$ buying back these units from customers just to get them out of the public. Here are some ED30 goodies that'll hepya:

Service Manual

Parts Catalog

Service Bulletin-Upper rack retro fit Instructions

Service Bulletin-Wont close, popping open, leaking

#3 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 13 February 2012 - 07:50 AM

Wire Diagrams 40.pdf

Service Bulletin DW software change July 2009 Rev A.pdf
.

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#4 jeremyb

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Posted 13 February 2012 - 01:54 PM

Yikes, who do I talk to about returning it? Do you think it is worth trying to fix it?

Edited by jeremyb, 13 February 2012 - 02:07 PM.


#5 jeremyb

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Posted 12 April 2012 - 12:28 PM

I am getting an F9 error, heater fault. Do you know how I would trouble shoot this?

#6 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 13 April 2012 - 02:03 AM

I would begin by checking heater resistance, make sure it's not open. There's a safety device in the heater circuit that could be open, too-- you'll need to check that as well. If both of those check good, then you graduate to live voltage tests to see if the heater circuit is actually cranking out voltage.

#7 jeremyb

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Posted 14 April 2012 - 01:06 PM

Do you have any idea what the voltage going to the heater should be?

#8 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 14 April 2012 - 02:12 PM

Pretty sure it's just going to be 120vac but that spec will be in the service manual. OTOH, if you see you're only getting 73vac or something like that, that's junk voltage and you know you have a a supply problem, maybe an open neutral.

But don't get ahead of yourself on this-- start with a simple continuity check of the element and then graduate to voltage checks.

#9 jeremyb

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 10:32 PM

So I found that the ends of the wires that have the female plus attached were a bit burnt. I cut them off and crimped on new ones and that fixed the heater. I still was getting the F1 error so I replaced the pressure switch and that fixed that. Any hot ideas on why the drain pump would be vibrating like crazy? The circ pump works great, it is the drain pump that has the problem.

Thanks.

#10 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 05:13 AM

Good job on the heater and the F1!

Sounds like the drain pump either has some gookus attached to one of the impeller vanes throwing it off balance or the bearings are shot. Try cleaning it out. If that doesn't work, then just replace the drain pump ==> http://www.repaircli...odelNumber=ED30




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