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Admiral Dryer AED4475TQ1

Completly Dead

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25 replies to this topic

#1 Adirondack Bob

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Posted 14 February 2012 - 07:23 PM

Hi All, This is an Admiral Dryer Model# AED4475TQ1 that is completly dead. I tested the power cord, there is 240 volts at terminal block, the start switch ohms o.k., the thermal fuse is o.k., I installed thermal cut-out kit #279816. Still Dead. There isn't much to this dryer. The only things left are the timer and the motor. Any tips on how to tell which one it could be? Thanks, Bob

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#2 jumptrout

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Posted 14 February 2012 - 07:27 PM

Did you check these parts with wires removed?
Did you check the door switch?

#3 Adirondack Bob

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Posted 14 February 2012 - 07:30 PM

Wow you're quick! Yes, with wires removed. Checked door switch also. I tested everything three times! Just not sure how to check the motor or timer. This dryer is 20 months old...

#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 14 February 2012 - 07:46 PM

and you checked the Neutral ? . . . . 120v to either Red or Black
The Thermal Fuse you tested... the white plastic one ?
.

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#5 Adirondack Bob

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Posted 14 February 2012 - 07:55 PM

Yes, I tested nuetral to both red and black on terminal block. Yes the white plastic thermal fuse. Ohmed it out then I jumped it out also. That was the first thing I went after. I searched for a broken wire somewhere. Like I said there isn't much to this dryer. I replaced the other thermal fuse and thermostat on the heater box also, just to be sure.

#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 14 February 2012 - 08:01 PM

while the Dryer is set to run a cycle:
Test for 120v AC from each side of white Thermal Fuse to chassis (a good ground)
Test for 120v AC from each side of Timer Motor to chassis (ground)
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

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#7 Adirondack Bob

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Posted 14 February 2012 - 08:12 PM

I see. I took the wiring diagram with me. (I will put it back when I am done) It looks like the Timer is one side of the Thermal Fuse and the motor is on the other. I am not going back there until Thursday. With all the tests I have done so far, besides a broken wire, do you think it may be either the timer or the motor? Thanks, Bob

#8 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 14 February 2012 - 08:26 PM

or Door Switch
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
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RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#9 Adirondack Bob

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Posted 14 February 2012 - 08:59 PM

Ohmed out door switch. Trying to understand. Testing for voltage on timer side of thermal fuse will show if timer is sending voltage and therefore o.k.? And testing on motor side of thermal fuse means timer is sending voltage, thermal fuse is o.k., and voltage is reaching the motor?

What does testing on either side of the timer motor prove?

I know without the wiring diagram in front of you it is difficult to see what I see. I appreciate the help, Bob

#10 Derik

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Posted 14 February 2012 - 09:44 PM

You know most of your tstats and cutoffs, door switches, ect can b bypassed to confirm assumptions??? But if thermal fuse and doorswitch is good it's likely u have a bad start button part #3977456 to confirm carefully bypass to confirm!!!

#11 Derik

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Posted 14 February 2012 - 09:48 PM

Post pic of wiring diagram!

#12 Adirondack Bob

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Posted 14 February 2012 - 09:50 PM

Thanks Derik, I ohmed out and bypassed start switch.

#13 Derik

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Posted 14 February 2012 - 09:54 PM

Being bout year and a half old I would lean towards timer issue! Did you check your contacts on timer with the chart on schematic??????

#14 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 14 February 2012 - 10:28 PM

.. What does testing on either side of the timer motor prove?

if the Main voltage (L1) is getting to the inside of the Dryer at all
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
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#15 Derik

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 01:39 AM

im hoping he post back about his timer issue :whistling:

#16 Adirondack Bob

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 09:05 AM

Waiting for parts delivery today. Let you know when I know :)

#17 Adirondack Bob

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 07:36 PM

im hoping he post back about his timer issue :whistling:

Timer was indeed bad. After I took it out, I shook it and there was a lot of rattling going on inside it. Thanks to everyone that helped!!!!

Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, 20 February 2012 - 01:30 PM.
Added part link to timer.


#18 Derik

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 09:17 PM

Glad you got it fixed!!!

#19 Scottthewolf

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Posted 19 February 2012 - 10:20 PM

I've had a rash of timers going bad lately in the newer Whirlpool branded dryers. I think alot of it has to do with the fact the timers are 240 volt timers rather than 120 volt timers with a separate relay for the heat circuit.
Scott Wolf

#20 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 20 February 2012 - 01:30 PM

Posting the part link to the timer for others coming along later and reading this excellent topic ==> Timer




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