5 replies to this topic

[bubba153]

Hi,
I am having a defrost problem with the freezer icing up. The problem first started about 1 1/2 months ago. I realised that the freezer was 22 and the refrigerator was 55. I first thought that someone had turned the temperature down and it froze up. I let it melt overnight and then plugged it back in and within 8 hrs it was reading 0 37 and ice was being made so I was thrilled.It was running perfect(or so I thought) This is a rental so I am not always there and there wasnt anyone at the house. I returned to the property yesterday and saw where the I was having the same problem. I pulled the plug and removed the interior panels and it was completely frozen. I let it melt overnight and this morning I did some testing. I took the back panel off to the control board and removed the blue wire connector and the white one below . I used the multi meter and put 1 probe in the middle terminal of the blue connector and the other in the furthest left terminal of the white connector(orange) got a reading of 35 or so . was bouncing back and forth. tested the heater and was reading 32 or so and I tested the defrost sensor and it was giving a reading of 10 to 11. I pushed the probes in the wire to just pierce the jacket and thats how I tested the defrost sensor. I put tape around the pin hole I made when I finished. I put the thermistor in crushed ice and tested from the control panel using the 4 and 5 terminals from the J1 connector. The reading was 14k. I also did the 3rd ,2nd 1st terminal for the other thermistors and got a reading of 5k which I believe is good because I didnt put them in ice.
Did I miss anything? Is there a way I can test the board to be 100% positive its the board? I need to use the freezer/refrig for 1 week and based on my last experience it appears that the freeze up occurs in about 2.5 to 3 weeks. is this a good assumption?
Thanks
Wayne

[Dr Freeze 40]

Did you do a visual inspection of the radiant glass heater? if burned out replace heater and defrost limit switch. the heater is easy accessed once the front panel is off ,2 philips screws . remember when replacing a glass heater do not touch the glass.. Sometimes to technical can leed you astray.

simple visual can lead you in the right direction, if the hearter and dts ok then futher investigation is required and with this fridge a steamer is higly recommended ,make sure all ice and frost are completly removed.. Clean Condenser as well..

Good luck!

[bubba153]

I did look at it but its not a see thru type so I couldn't see anything broken. The continuatly test was done and it appeared to be ok

[Derik]

If what your saying is all correct I would change the control brd have changed alot of them, with no call backs! Although I had one out of probally twenty or so were I did return after changing brd only to find when I tested defrost tstat that it was bad, and just held on to brd knowing I would use it anyways! If you use repairclinc you can return part if doesn't correct problem!

Defrost tstat can work intermintenly like other things!!!!

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

The defrost terminator, the button attached to the evaporator coil, is famous for failing open and breaking the defrost heater circuit. Sometimes it's visible if it's puffed up and distorted. Most of the time, you have to check for continuity with it at freezer temperature.

[phydeauxe64]

It's been my expierience with these units that when they frost up completely on evaporator coil, first defrost evap coil completely then replace defrost heater and freezer thermistor, the one located on evap coil. The only time I've replaced the boards on these is when it gets stuck in defrost and won't switch to cool. http://www.repaircli...r=GSS23WSTASS and http://www.repaircli...ber=GSS23WSTASS

Edited by phydeauxe64, 17 February 2012 - 11:50 PM.