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Kenmore HE2 110.46462501 Washer Won't start the cycle

HE2 CCU MCU

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11 replies to this topic

#1 pcmedix1

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 05:57 PM

OK I have 2.5 year old Kenmore HE2 washer that is not working (Will not start the cycle). I have done enough research to run the diagnostics and pull the codes. One was for the temp. sensor (F24) , and the other was for the door latch (F22). I have done the multimeter tests found in the service manual. I realize this is a Whirlpool Duet model and used 8178558.pdf manual. I ran into the same issues as did others where the test shown for the door latch is incorrect in the manual. The center pin is common. You should be testing 1>2 and 2>3 with 60 ohms resistance on each. If you test pin 1>3 you get 120 ohms because you are going across both actuators. I get 60 and 60 if you test it properly per the wire diagram and ignore what the incorrect info in the book says. So the way I see it the latch is fine. It locks and I never get water or anything else after I push start. The temp sensor tests fine. I even went ahead and tested the pressure switch ,dispenser motor and line filter. Everything is testing fine. I think I have a bad CCU and I wanted a second opinion before ordering. Please help, maybe I've forgotten something?

Scott

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#2 kdog

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 07:15 PM

The measurements you made at the doorlock is for the 2 coils (locking/unlocking = 60 ohms each), but there is also a switch in the latch that needs to close before the CCU will give the ok to start a cycle, it could be at fault.

Link to Latch:
http://www.repaircli...er=110.46462501

 

Door-Hook-W10253483-00780082.jpg


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#3 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 07:45 PM

Other things besides the actuators can fail inside the door lock causing an F22 error. Unplug and re-connect all the wire harness connectors on the door lock and from the door lock to the CCU. If the problem persists, I'd go with the door lock assembly ==> http://www.repaircli...er=110.46462501

The measurements you made at the doorlock is for the 2 coils (locking/unlocking = 60 ohms each), but there is also a switch in the latch that needs to close before the CCU will give the ok to start a cycle, it could be at fault. Link to Latch:

 

http://www.repaircli...er=110.46462501

 

Door-Hook-W10253483-00780082.jpg



Great minds do think alike! Was camped out on this page when you made your post, Grand Master! :thumbsup:

#4 kdog

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 07:56 PM

I too, enjoy camping :thumbsup: - makes us twice as right
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#5 pcmedix1

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 08:24 PM

I did test the switch also. It passed. I have not disconnected/reconnected the wires at the switch/latch, only at the CCU. I did notice that the door catch tab was loose when I first started looking at why the washer quit. I since tightened it. Maybe it is the catch? I'll unplug and replug those wires and post back.

#6 pcmedix1

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 08:36 PM

OK I unplugged and replugged all the wires at the switch (Door Hook). Still won't start. I just don't understand why it could be that part when it passes all of the tests?

#7 pcmedix1

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 08:45 PM

Another thing I've noticed. If I unplug the machine after trying to start a cycle when nothing happens, then plug it back in, it will start filling with water. It doesn't fill that much. Then it stops again and does nothing. If I Iet it sit it does nothing. If I push stop twice it shuts off. If I try the cycle again, it will drain, and then do nothing again. Wierd. I'm a computer guy and this sure does seem like a funky computer. This is why I suspect the CCU. I guess I can just take a chance on the dool hook part, but it really doesn't seem like that is defective.

#8 mark mac

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Posted 23 February 2012 - 05:10 PM

unplugged the washer ,unplug the mi3 connector from ccu , plug washer back in if it locks and starts u have a bad motor control board sounds like a bad mcu

#9 pcmedix1

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Posted 24 February 2012 - 04:54 PM

I followed your instructions. The door locked and the all the cycle lights started blinking like it went into diagnostic mode. It never started taking water though. What next? Thanks!

#10 mark mac

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Posted 24 February 2012 - 06:38 PM

you need an mcu for washer

#11 kdog

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Posted 24 February 2012 - 07:16 PM

http://www.repaircli...er=110.46462501

 

Motor-Control-Board-W10197864-00738201.j


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#12 pcmedix1

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Posted 24 February 2012 - 08:10 PM

I pull the MCU out and take a look at the circuit board and what do you know? The large bridge rectifier that is pasted to the heatsink with 4 pins had a bad solder joint on the inner most pin with a little burnt mark. I cleaned it up and flowed some solder in there and Bazinga. It works!! Thanks for all the help and resources found on these forums!! I saved at least $200!




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