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LG LDS5811BB Dishwasher - 1E error


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16 replies to this topic

#1 RayHess

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Posted 25 February 2012 - 01:20 PM

I know its been brought up before in this forum but my search skills didn't give me what I needed. I have a LG LDS5811BB which starts filling and jumps to a 1E error in about 15 seconds. The water is flowing fine and the tub is filling. I know I am to take the following steps:

Measure the electric resistance of

Inlet Valve. (950-1300 )

Clean the filter of Inlet Valve.

Check the frequency of Inlet Water

by the Test Mode.

Replace the Air Braker.

I don't remember how to put it in test mode and would like some direction in how to do these tests. Alternatively if you could identify the most costly and difficult to repair piece I'm sure that is what it will turn out to be :yucky:. Seriously, any help in identifying the part I need to order would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Ray

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#2 clman

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Posted 25 February 2012 - 02:37 PM

Is there a product code / slash number at the end of the model number you provided. It will not be on any manuals but rather on the label on the side of the door. Test mode is Rinse + Delay + Power depressed at the same time. Hold the rinse and delay buttons down very slightly before pressing the power button. All lights will light up and 3H/U2 will appear in the top display. To test the water frequency press only the time delay button 4 times. 34 will show in the top display. The water fill / level frequency will show in the front display. It should be 229 or more. Here's the kicker. I've seen that reading be all over the place and the unit still work fine.

Possibilities:
Water supply weak or intermittent. Water valve intermittently not opening ( mechanically or electrically ) or not opening all the way, obstructed ( debris, etc )

Air guide assmy / air breaker issue ( the large opaque plastic device on the left side where the water comes in from the water valve and out via the fill cover on the inside side wall ). The hall sensor may be clogged and not able rotate.

Faluty wiring between the hall sensor in the guide assmy and the main pcb.

The main pcb is not reading the hall sensor info correctly.

I think I covered all the possibilities.

If it's not a plumbing problem; replacing the m.pcb would be the most costly

Edited by clman, 25 February 2012 - 02:41 PM.

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#3 RayHess

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Posted 25 February 2012 - 03:05 PM

Thanks for the quick and detailed response. The model number is /01. I went into test mode and saw the 32, then 33, but not the 34. It went right into filling on the 4th delay button push. My reading was a whopping 0:00. No frequency whatsoever. I ran it for awhile and almost filled the tub above the line. Definately not a water flow issue. Well boss, what do I do next? Thanks for your help

#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 25 February 2012 - 04:44 PM

If this dishwasher is installed in a home on a well, the float assembly could be fouled up. There's a little Hall Sensor in the fill assy that monitors flow. If it gets boogared up, the control board won't "see" the water flow. The remedy in this case would be to replace the fill assembly ==> http://www.repaircli...er=LDS5811BB/01

#5 clman

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Posted 25 February 2012 - 05:25 PM

With it overilling like it did the drain pump should have come on by it's self to drain out the excess water. The fact that it didn't and that the frequency was zero shows a fault with the guide assmy, m.pcb or wiring.

You need to check the the water flow / hall sensor and float in the guide / air breaker / fill assmy. If the the wheel of the flow / hall sensor is spinning and the floats are engaging the micro switches then they are mechanically functioning properly. If they are then make sure the micro switches for the floats shows continuity when empty / closed and no continuity when full / open. If the micro switch does not open when the float is raised by the water level it is bad. As I reall one of the float switches provides overfill protection so I find it odd that the drain pump didn't come on when you were testing it. Unless it didn't quite get to that point yet.

If the water flow / hall sensor spins check it's resistance. Pins 1 & 3 ( the blue and white wires ) should read 9,000~11,000 Ω. If it is within this range it is good.

If all that checks out and there are no wiring faults the m.pcb is bad.

I'd suspect the parts in the guide assmy to be at fault. Namely the flow hall / sensor. If so changing the entire guide / air breaker / fill assmy makes sense.
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#6 john63

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Posted 25 February 2012 - 08:53 PM

The first thing to inspect---would be the WIRE LOOM inside the door.

Remove the FRONT COVER of the dishwasher.

Inspect the wiring between the bottom of the door---up to the DETERGENT DISPENSER HOUSING.

Usually one of the thin/low voltage wires has been pulled apart from becoming imbedded in the door insulation/sound deadener(black tar-like material).

Repair any damaged wiring.

Wrap the *entire* wire loom from the dispenser down to the bottom of the door with electrical tape.

Cut a small section of cardboard and place it between the wire loom and the sticky insulation material.

Re-install FRONT PANEL and test dishwasher.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#7 RayHess

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Posted 29 February 2012 - 07:56 PM

I was only able to get back to this tonight. I did find a broken wire in the door area and after a quick solder job it is working again. Thanks to everyone for your help. I will be back and I tell everyone about this site.

#8 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 29 February 2012 - 08:24 PM

Dr. John slam dunks anuddin'! Posted Image

#9 john63

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Posted 29 February 2012 - 09:57 PM

LOL!
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#10 AppGuy

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Posted 01 March 2012 - 10:43 PM

Miss the good ol' days when wires were a thick enough guage that these problems didnt happen all the time.

#11 john63

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Posted 01 March 2012 - 11:04 PM

<<<Miss the good ol' days when wires were a thick enough guage that these problems didnt happen all the time>>>

************************

Damaged low voltage wiring inside the door of LG dishwashers---was caused by the original door/tub liner (a soft rubber-like material).

Only the early models had this type insulation ('04 thru early '07).

Hence---it's not an issue in *any* LG dishwasher built from '07 to the present..

The biggest clues to identifying the cause of the "1E" in RayHess' dishwasher were:

<<< I have a LG LDS5811BB>>>

All 5811s had the old type insulation.

<<<starts filling and jumps to a 1E error in about 15 seconds.>>>

<<< My reading was a whopping 0:00. No frequency whatsoever.>>>

An error of "1E" after only 15 seconds & no feedback from the GUIDE ASSY to the MAIN BOARD at all...can only mean a damaged wire---usually in the door area.

Edited by john63, 01 March 2012 - 11:05 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#12 clman

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Posted 04 March 2012 - 03:01 AM

Good catch on that. I completely forgot to mention the door wiring issue. Yes it's the liner poly something or another insulation reacting with and breaking down the wires insulation and the copper also. I've seen this cause dead units, water valves not getting voltage, LE codes, damaged water valve coils, damaged pcb's, burned out sump motors, and more. And now an E1 code. I've been using rubbertex and black fabric tape to protect the wiring after repairing them.
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#13 john63

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Posted 04 March 2012 - 03:59 AM

The wire(s) become imbedded into the rubber-type insulation---which became *very* soft & sticky during wash/rinse heated cycles.

When the insulation cooled/hardened again---the wiring is then "stuck" in the insulation.

Repeated opening/closing of the dishwasher door---eventually pulls apart one (or more) of the thin wires---which accounts for the "clean break" of the wire rather than any type of erosion/corrosion.

LG specifies that a barrier (cardboard) be placed between the wire loom and the old-style sticky insulation after the wires have been taped.

You're correct on the various symptoms that can occur from a broken wire---however...

I've never had a failure of a WATER VALVE---MAIN BOARD---or SUMP WASH MOTOR from wire damage in the door liner.

Edited by john63, 04 March 2012 - 04:01 AM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#14 RussTech

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Posted 07 March 2012 - 03:41 PM

I've never had a failure of a WATER VALVE---MAIN BOARD---or SUMP WASH MOTOR from wire damage in the door liner.


I have, couple of years ago. Error code was in relation to the valve. I, like the idiot I am, went ahead and trusted the diagnostics. Came back with a valve, got the same error codes. Started digging in and found one of the the wires from the loom pulled out of the connector. Completely mystified me at the time. How in the hell did this wire come out?!? That and a few big headaches with the early lines of LG Reefers kept me shying from LG for a long time. But now with all the tech support and a very noticeable increase in the quality of their machines, Im taking them on again :D

I guess I should say, I got sent on a goose-chase, not that the pulled wire made anything fail.

Edited by RussTech, 07 March 2012 - 03:43 PM.


#15 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 07 March 2012 - 04:45 PM

... That and a few big headaches with the early lines of LG Reefers

... not that any other manufacturer has any "lemon models" out there of any of their appliances .. :whistling:
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#16 john63

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Posted 08 March 2012 - 01:26 AM

<<< I, like the idiot I am, went ahead and trusted the diagnostics. Came back with a valve, got the same error codes>>>.

<<<Started digging in and found one of the the wires from the loom pulled out of the connector.>>>

*****************************

I disagree.

Very few techs would've found the cause/fault.

You did---and that makes you---a professional.

Error messages/codes give us an idea/area to suspect/look for a problem.

In your case---likely an "IE" error.

The error was *not* incorrect---there *was* a problem with WATER SUPPLY.

You just had to find *why* there wasn't any water entering the tub :)
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#17 clman

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Posted 09 March 2012 - 01:04 PM

Ditto
25 Years in the biz. 9 years LG authorized.




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