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GE Dryer DBXR453EA1WW Not Heating ... I've troubleshooted and am Puzzled ...

31 posts in this topic

GE Dryer Model # DBXR453EA1WW

Hi Everyone ...

Yesterday we noticed that the dryer wasn't heating ...

Today I removed the top, front sections, and drum to begin testing the various components ...

I removed the 2 upper thermostats and they eached checked out with good continuity ...

I then removed and checked the upper right thermal fuse and it checked out with good continuity ...

Worked my way down to the Bias Thermostat on the blower and it checked out as well ...

So, I moved onto the Heating Coils ... I visually inspected them and they appear fine with no burnt or broken areas, the ceramic isolators look fine as well ...

I check continuity on the Coils and all was fine ... I then put one lead of the multimeter on one of the coil leads and then grounded the other coil and ensured that the coil is grounded to the metal shell ...

After checking all of the components that I knew to check, I had an extra Double Pole 30a breaker and swapped it out in the Breaker Panel ...

Put everything back together, checked all connectors on the motor, etc... to ensure good, tight connections and it still does not heat up...

So, what else can I check?

Can these thermostats Read that they have good continuity but still need replacing????

Any help will be appreciated ... as I like fixing items rather than tossing for a new unit ...

Thanks,

TIM

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I don't have a wiring diagram for that model,

unless you have one you could scan & upload somewhere.

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I don't have a wiring diagram for that model,

unless you have one you could scan & upload somewhere.

I don't have a wiring diagram but will see if I can find one online ...

What does the switch in the bottom of the case (next to the electric motor) do ??? I've been reading a faulty motor switch can cause the "No Heat" issue ...

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It's a Centrifugal Switch.

part of it's job is to only let the Heater ON when the Motor (thus Blower) is running

heater wires = thick wires

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It's a Centrifugal Switch.

part of it's job is to only let the Heater ON when the Motor (thus Blower) is running

heater wires = thick wires

Is it easy to check for continuity?

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Is it easy to check for continuity?

Motor Switch is only "closed" when the Motor is running

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I then put one lead of the multimeter on one of the coil leads and then grounded the other coil and ensured that the coil is grounded to the metal shell ...

Element should not have continuity to ground, if it does it has failed.

Link to Element w/instructional video

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Element should not have continuity to ground, if it does it has failed.

Link to Element w/instructional video

I miss typed here and tried to go back in and edit my post but couldn't find an edit button ... I meant to say ... "ensured that the coil is not grounded to metal" ...

I'm going to try a few more things today ... I will unplug the coil completely and test ... I will attempt to test the motor switch while turning the pully on the motor ... and I will test the timing control at the top ...

Is there any way a thermostat can be bad (thus preventing the dryer from heating) and still read good on the continuity test ????

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... but couldn't find an edit button

... I will attempt to test the motor switch while turning the pully on the motor

... Is there any way a thermostat can be bad ... and still read good on the continuity test ????

1) grasshoppers don't have an edit button ..

2) Motor would have to be at running speed...

3) not really ...

If I had a wiring diagram, I could help you more,

but GE info is hard to get

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1) grasshoppers don't have an edit button ..

2) Motor would have to be at running speed...

3) not really ...

If I had a wiring diagram, I could help you more,

but GE info is hard to get

I remember seeing a folded sheet of paper in the unit yesterday ... wonder if that's a wiring diagram ... will check today ...

Here is the only thing that I've been able to find online thus far ... seems to be really close ...

ge-newelec-diagram.JPG

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I forgot to mention...

Have you checked and re-set your House Circuit Breakers ?

Check the voltage at then Dryer Power Cord Terminal Strip for 120v / 240v / 120 v

If the Dryer is set to run an Auto-Dry cycle, does the Timer run ?

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I forgot to mention...

Have you checked and re-set your House Circuit Breakers ?

Check the voltage at then Dryer Power Cord Terminal Strip for 120v / 240v / 120 v

If the Dryer is set to run an Auto-Dry cycle, does the Timer run ?

Yes to all ... even replaced the 30a double pole with a new one I had lying around ...

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... If the Dryer is set to run an Auto-Dry cycle, does the Timer run ?

Timer shouldn't run until the Dryer is hot ...

OK

Set the Dryer to run an Air-Fluff no heat cycle

Measure for 120v AC from each end of the

Safety Thermostat to chassis (a good ground)

and from each end of the Drum Outlet Thermostat to chassis

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Timer shouldn't run until the Dryer is hot ...

OK

Set the Dryer to run an Air-Fluff no heat cycle

Measure for 120v AC from each end of the

Safety Thermostat to chassis (a good ground)

and from each end of the Drum Outlet Thermostat to chassis

Just so I'm sure I fully understand ... we you say set to run an Auto-Dry Cycle, does the timer run ... This is what I translated from that ...

I set the drying time knob to 90 minutes or so with Heat Selected and the knob counts down as the drying cycle performs ... If this is what you mean, then yes ... It does count down although no heat is coming out of the dryer ...

I'll perform those checks this evening ... thanks ...

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If the Dryer is set to run an Auto-Dry cycle, does the Timer run ?

the Auto-Dry Cycle, not the Timed Dry Cycle

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the Auto-Dry Cycle, not the Timed Dry Cycle

I may have gotten those 2 cycles confused ... will double check this evening and report back ... thanks

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the Auto-Dry Cycle, not the Timed Dry Cycle

Ok ... I checked on an auto cycle and No the timer does not run ... The dryer just continues to run without the selector dial moving at all or advancing during the auto cycle ...

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Set the Dryer to run an Air-Fluff no heat cycle

Measure for 120v AC from

each end of the Control Inlet Thermostat to chassis (a good ground)

OR each end of each of the Heating Element to chassis

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Set the Dryer to run an Air-Fluff no heat cycle

Measure for 120v AC from

each end of the Control Inlet Thermostat to chassis (a good ground)

OR each end of each of the Heating Element to chassis

Will do this now ... I was able to also recheck the coils and ensured 40 ohms and continuity ... checked the timer and heat switch and they check out ok as well ...

Here is the wiring schematic ... found it in the dryer ...

WiringSchematicforHeater.jpg?t=1330467682

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Set the Dryer to run an Air-Fluff no heat cycle

Measure for 120v AC from

each end of the Control Inlet Thermostat to chassis (a good ground)

OR each end of each of the Heating Element to chassis

Ok ... I just checked to see if each element was getting 120 Volts ... I set the dial to Fluff and then the far right or auto vs timer knob to Auto Cottons ... and received 124.7 volts on each element leg when using a good ground ...

I did the same thing but switched from Auto Cottons to the Timer Section of that dial and could get no reading on each of the element legs ...

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Just checked to ensure 120v to each of the 3 thermostats on this dryer and all are getting appropriate voltage on each leg of the thermostat ...

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If it's set to Fluff, it shouldn't matter if it's set for Auto or Timed

The Voltage readngs at the Heater should be the same.

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If it's set to Fluff, it shouldn't matter if it's set for Auto or Timed

The Voltage readngs at the Heater should be the same.

So what does this mean if I set to fluff and then timer and don't get 120 volts ???

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What else can I do to determine what is wrong with this dryer?

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If it's set to Fluff, it shouldn't matter if it's set for Auto or Timed

The Voltage readngs at the Heater should be the same.

(the above) means one of your voltage tests seem to be wrong

Just checked to ensure 120v to each of the 3 thermostats on this dryer and all are getting appropriate voltage on each leg of the thermostat ...

If in the Air-Fluff no-heat Cycle, theres 120v from each side of the Heatiung elements to chassis,

AND 120v from each side of the Thermostst to chassis,

then that would mean the Timer is bad

OR a bad Selector Switch (as shown in your "actual" wiring diagram.

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