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Whirlpool/Kenmore 110 63012101 electric dryer thermostat keeps fryin'

electric thermostat no heat

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9 replies to this topic

#1 pezboy

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Posted 04 March 2012 - 02:28 PM



Have a Kenmore/Whirlpool electric dryer about 10-15 years old. Ran, but did not heat. Followed your guidelines, checked the power coming in, getting 240V and 120 on the motor. Checked continuity on the fuses and thermostats. Found a thermostat (of course the hardest one to get to) on the metal bracket enclosing the heater coil to be bad. Got a new kit (came with both thermostats) popped it in and it worked. Ran one load of clothes, nice and dry. Put in another load this morning, no heat. Jumped the replaced the new thermostat and the coils heat up.
What can be causing the thermostat to fry?

Thanks,
Mike



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#2 jumptrout

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Posted 04 March 2012 - 05:16 PM

Poor venting.

#3 Derik

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Posted 04 March 2012 - 05:36 PM

Clogged venting, blower wheel housing as well!!!! May as well check that blower is attached properly (no slop)

#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 04 March 2012 - 07:19 PM

[indent=1]
... Got a new kit (came with both thermostats)

installed both in their correct locations ?
.

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#5 pezboy

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Posted 04 March 2012 - 11:30 PM

I cleaned everything out, there wasn't anything major. It's been in the same location for years, so no kinks. Yes, I put both thermostats back properly (even took a picture beforehand) and they can't swap locations (one has only on screw with a tab).

Perhaps there is a short in the heater assembly?

#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 04 March 2012 - 11:49 PM


... Perhaps there is a short in the heater assembly?
perhaps ...
There should be no continuity to chassis
OR
Run the Dryer in an Air-Fluff, no-heat cycle
make sure there is no heat

Dryer Vent

Vent should be rigid metal.
Short lengths of flexible metal may be OK, if not crimped when moving the Dryer into place.
NO plastic
NO PVC
NO screws
Foil Duct Tape is OK.
With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat, the vent temperature should cycle somewhere between 135F and 160F
Check / clean the Dryer Vent
Disconnect the Dryer Vent and check for good air-flow there and where it exits the house.
Check the Vent air temperature at the back of the Dryer.
 
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#7 pezboy

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 04:05 PM

No heat cycle works just fine.

Any suggestions to find a short or should I bite the bullet and get a new dryer?

#8 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 05:37 PM

Does the Heating Element stop glowing when the Door is opened ?
Post the normal Vent temperatures
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#9 pezboy

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 10:17 PM

Yes, stops glowing with door opened.

I went to my used appliance shop and the guy was super nice and gave me a used heating element unit to try. After installing it, no heat. So I checked it (should have done that first) and the first part toward the front (white with two prongs that are directly part of the coils) has no resistance. On the original heating element which keeps blowing thermostat but does heat up if I jump it, the ohm reading is about 10.

It appears that the white part is not replaceable, wish I could swap it. But is 10 ohms a normal reading?

Thanks.

#10 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 11:33 PM

... is 10 ohms a normal reading?

yes
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw





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