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Amana NED7200TW Dryer no heat, problem with cycling thermostat?


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37 replies to this topic

#21 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 17 March 2012 - 04:13 PM

there must be 240v from Black to Red
Has this Dryer worked OK up till now at this location ?
Have you re-set your House Circuit Breakers ?
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#22 sh2sh2

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Posted 17 March 2012 - 05:02 PM

if there is no 240 from black to read but there is 120 from black or red to white then one of the legs is open and 120 is feeding through the dryer to the other leg...unplug the dryer and test the outlet by itself, you wil find one leg has no power. Lesson learned. When you find nothing wrong with the appliance look elsewear for the problem. Time to call in the electrician

Edited by sh2sh2, 17 March 2012 - 05:03 PM.


#23 triggerhappy007

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Posted 17 March 2012 - 05:20 PM

there must be 240v from Black to Red
Has this Dryer worked OK up till now at this location ?
Have you re-set your House Circuit Breakers ?

Yes, dryer worked for almost 3 years at this location
I did reset my circuit breaker before taking the dryer apart.

At the outlet, theres 125V from each side, and 250V when both sides are connected.

#24 sh2sh2

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Posted 17 March 2012 - 05:35 PM

but at the terminal block you said there was 0 from black to red? if so there must be a opening in the power cord or the outlet is not making good connection with the power cord?

#25 triggerhappy007

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Posted 17 March 2012 - 07:03 PM

I noticed I hooked up the power cord wrong when I first installed it. I mixed the red and black wires up and had the ground from the power cable going to the white. Now I redid the cables so the ground from the dryer is going to the white, red to red, black to black, and ground from the power cord going to the ground on the machine.

It's getting 250V from red to black of the terminal block. Now, the dryer doesn't turn on at all.

#26 triggerhappy007

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Posted 17 March 2012 - 07:38 PM

I just checked red to black at the terminal block and it's only 125V now.

#27 john63

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Posted 17 March 2012 - 07:40 PM

<<<Now, the dryer doesn't turn on at all.>>>

********************

If the 2 low voltage plugs (for the front control panel) were removed from the MAIN BOARD during your various tests---verify that both have been re-installed (black and white multi-pin connectors).

Forgetting to re-install these 2 plugs will result in a "dead" dryer (no lights at all).



If the Control Panel "awakens" (lights are on)---verify that the DRUM BELT is installed (dryer will not start with a disconnected/broken belt).

Edited by john63, 17 March 2012 - 08:02 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#28 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 17 March 2012 - 07:40 PM

Has this Dryer worked OK up till now at this location ?


Yes, dryer worked for almost 3 years at this location


How could it have been working for 3 years if the Power Cord was connected wrong from the original installation ?

Is this a 3 wire OR 4 wire Outlet ?
Is this a 3 wire OR 4 wire Power Cord ?

If the Dryer isn't wired correctly, it could blow the Controller.
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#29 triggerhappy007

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Posted 17 March 2012 - 08:02 PM

<<<Now, the dryer doesn't turn on at all.>>>

********************

If the 2 low voltage plugs (for the front control panel) were removed from the MAIN BOARD during your various tests---verify that both have been re-installed (black and white multi-pin connectors).

Forgetting to re-install these 2 plugs will result in a "dead" dryer (no lights at all).

I double checked to see if they were connected and they were.

RegUS,
I'm not sure why it worked, but it did. I have 4 wire outlet and a 4 wire power cord. It's weird, I checked the red and black at the terminal and it was 250V, then I assembled the dryer together and check it, but it's only 125V now.

#30 john63

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Posted 17 March 2012 - 08:09 PM

Possible faulty POWER CORD.

Check continuity of each wire-to-the-plug terminal.

Bend/flex the plug while testing each wire to see if a "break" in continuity occurs.

If it does---new POWER CORD needed.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#31 jb8103

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Posted 17 March 2012 - 10:39 PM

Can you measure voltage across black/blue of the heater relay while machine runs on a heating cycle ?

[]

Also measure each of the black/blue to a good ground


I do believe I've learned a thing or two around here - that's where I was going next. (ed.: oops, late post)

Edited by jb8103, 17 March 2012 - 10:40 PM.

First, do no harm.

#32 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 18 March 2012 - 01:23 AM

Do anther test at the Outlet...
May need more of a "load" than just a volt-meter.
If you have a table lamp, etc
Try test-wiring the table lamp to each of the 120v connections ONLY:
Black & Neutral
Black & ground
Red & Neutral
Red & ground
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#33 sh2sh2

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Posted 18 March 2012 - 08:15 AM

The reason the dryer might be dead now is when you rewired the terminal block you may have moved the working leg from L1 to L2 so now the controls dont have power. Try wiggiling the plug in the outlet and see if voltage comes and goes, shine a light into the terminals in the plug and see if they are shiny or burnt

#34 triggerhappy007

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Posted 18 March 2012 - 09:49 AM

The reason the dryer might be dead now is when you rewired the terminal block you may have moved the working leg from L1 to L2 so now the controls dont have power. Try wiggiling the plug in the outlet and see if voltage comes and goes, shine a light into the terminals in the plug and see if they are shiny or burnt

This is probably the problem. I can see that one side is not making very good contact even though my test probe read voltage. I will replace the outlet today and see how it goes. Thank you everyone for your help.

#35 jb8103

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Posted 18 March 2012 - 02:31 PM

And check your power cord wiring against this, from the oracle himself:

http://fixitnow.com/.../dryercords.htm
First, do no harm.

#36 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 18 March 2012 - 07:46 PM

And check your power cord wiring against this, from the oracle himself:

http://fixitnow.com/.../dryercords.htm


Dayyam, the page is so old it blew dust in my eyes when I clicked the link! And what grade-schooler designed that page layout? :sillytongue:

#37 triggerhappy007

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 12:02 AM

Replaced the outlet and everything works now. Thanks again for all your help.

#38 john63

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 12:17 AM

"You Know I'm Glad---I Need The Rest!"

*************
Deputy Sam Gerard---to Dr. Richard Kimball in a scene at the end of the movie: "The Fugitive"

Edited by john63, 19 March 2012 - 12:19 AM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"






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From: Amana NED7200TW Dryer no heat, problem with cycling thermostat?

By kdog in kdog's Blog, on 16 March 2012 - 12:42 AM

View Posttriggerhappy007, on 16 March 2012 - 12:38 AM, said:

[Yes, I did reset the breaker and checked the voltages. Here's the wiring diagram:
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