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Doug Craig

Maytag Neptune MAH3000AWW shuts off during cycle

23 posts in this topic

Hello, I am new to the forum and appreciate your assistance. The washer serial number is 29109594US. It has started shutting off mid cycle just before rinse, hoever this is intermittent. I have looked through all prior forum postings and have completed the motor test with success and have also looked at the main board on top to make sure that the two components frequently discussed are in good shape. The problem is that the washer frequently runs through all cycles just fine. It seems to me that the heavier loads may be causing this problem, so I suspect it may have something to do with load balance sensors. I have no idea where these sensors are located and what should be done to test them. Now, please understand that I do have a multi meter, but am not in any way an electrical whiz, so please do not assume that I know much. The more basic your response/recommendation, the better. I will buy all parts from you after we are able to determine the likely cause of the problem. Thanks....

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Stops or shuts OFF (no lights)

How do you re-start it ?

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Moved topic to laundry forum

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It shuts off and the lights go out. If I try to restart it shortly afterward by pressing the start button, it lights up and begins to drain and then shuts down again. If I wait for some time, and then press start, it will continue through the cycle. It kind of acts like the motor is shutting down and needs to cool before it will restart. The confusing thing is that it only acts this way some of the time, not always.

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Is it possible that the wax motor is backing off just enough to shut the machine down sometuimes?

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that wouldnt cause the machine to shut down, just not spin and turn off the door locked light

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Got it. So it's not the wax motor, not the main board, ran the motor test shown in an earlier thread and it is not that. What is left?

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is the cold water filling properly, if i remember these machines will shut down if they take too long to fill and if the cold water screen is clogged up it takes to long to fill for the rinses and shuts off?, compare cold fill to hot fill in the dispenser area and see if they are the same

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is the cold water filling properly, if i remember these machines will shut down if they take too long to fill and if the cold water screen is clogged up it takes to long to fill for the rinses and shuts off?, compare cold fill to hot fill in the dispenser area and see if they are the same

Master sh2sh2 is smacking it outta da park again! I think this is ezzacly what's going on.

If the inlet screen can't be cleaned out or if that doesn't improve the cold water flow rate, replace the water inlet valve.

Part link to water inlet valve, chose whichever is installed in your washer. ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/Maytag-Washing-Machine-Model-MAH3000AWW-ID-92325-Valve-Or-Float-Assembly-Parts

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Changed the cold hose this morning. I ran a heavy load and it stopped during the wash cycle after filling with water. The on light goes out and the door lock light goes out afterwards. I hear a click in the main control board when it stops. When I press the start button, it begins to operate for four or five seconds and then shuts off again. I have the front off the machine and have felt the motor to see if it is running hot but seems to be fine.

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The fill rate from the cold is strong as compared to the hot, so I don't think there is a restriction on the water flow rate.

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"Shuts OFF During Final Rinses:

The machine control board is programmed to allow a maximum continous fill time of six minutes

or an accumulated fill time of 8 minutes for each full wash cycle.

If the required fill time exceeds the time limit, the washer will shut down.

This is to prevent flooding in the event there is a loose hose clamp or damaged air dome hose.

Check the incoming water lines for a minimum pressure of 20 psi.

If lower, the customer can use smaller clothes loads and reduce the pressure to 10 psi.

An alternative solution would be to change the plastic inlet screens to metal screened washers

and remove the nozzle extender found in the water valve inlet hose near the dispener inlet."

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I have taken one half of the heavy load out and reran the other half and it went through all cycles just fine. The initial fill on heavy load takes 2 minutes 40 seconds. I am now running the other half and have once again felt the motor housing. It is somewhat hot to the touch. I can hold my fingers on the housing but it is not at all comfortable. Is it possible that the motor is overheating on a heavy load due to sheer weight and then shutting down the system?

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Time to run the basic motor function test ==> http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/08/15/basic-motor-function-test-for-early-model-maytag-neptune-washers/

If that fails, you'll need the upgraded motor and motor control board kit ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-mah3000AWW-%3d%3di949491&PartID=949491

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Ran the other half of the load and all went well. Fill rates througout this load were;

1. initial fill = 2 minutes 40 seconds

2. fill at end of wash =. 35 seconds

3. fill before first rinse = 2 minutes 56 seconds

4. fill before second rinse = 3 moinutes 5 seconds

5. fill before third rinse = 2 minutes 54 seconds

I have touched the motor several times thorugout this load and it seems to be hot. Can't keep my hand on it more than a few seconds. Not sure the temperatire, but could the motor be overheating and the heavy loads tip it over the top, causing the machine to shut down?

I will run the motor test and let you know.

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How do you determine if one of the motor phases is non functional? This sounds like what may be going on

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Does the motor fail to rotate at 50RPM in the test? Install the upgraded motor kit.

Does the motor make a growling noise during the test or while running? This is due to a phase loss. Install the upgraded motor kit.

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It turns the drum at 50 rpm and the motor is quiet. I can hear it spinning but it is not making a growling noise. However, as mentioned before, uit does get quite hot when running a load and only light loads will run through all cycles.The motor test says see section 3 troubleshooting for phase loss. Is there anything in that section that may help in diagnosing phase loss?

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If the machine control commands a motor
speed and direction but does not sense a tach
input signal within five seconds, it will disengage
the line relay to stop the washer. This
generally indicates a locked rotor or a malfunction
in the motor control.
If the machine control senses a tach input signal
when it is not commanding the motor to
run, it will disengage the line relay to stop the
washer.
If the machine control commands a coast
down from final spin speed but is still receiving
a tach input signal after two minutes, it
will disengage the line relay to stop the washer.

Quoted from the manual, possible there is something funky going on with the motor circuit - replacement pretty much shotguns the whole circuit cause its a new motor/controller.

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Motor-and-Control-Module/12002039/949491

 


Motor-and-Control-Module-12002039-008175

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Just ordered the motor and control from you and will let you know how it goes. Thanks for all the help and advice.

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Have you taken a visual on the condition of the rear tub bearing ? external leakage or binding could also be the cause.

See if the tub pulley turns smoothly and easily with the belt disconnected

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I finally found the time to put in the new motor and control and you were absolutely right. This has corrected the problem. The parts came in great condition and arrived within the couple days. The cost was very reasonable, over $80 less that my local applicance parts store. Thanks for all of the great trouble shooting advice and for the quick delivery of parts. The washer is working like new again. I will definately come back to you when the next appliance problem arises. Great advice, great service!!!

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:thumbsup:

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