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Frigidaire Gallery Model FSE447GHS0 Stackable Dryer - Will not turn on


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32 replies to this topic

#1 Rotary

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Posted 30 November 2005 - 04:02 AM

Dryer is about 6 years old but gets a good workout. I've replaced a bearing on it that was squealing. That's it.

Last night my spouse told me that the dryer wasn't working since she tried to turn it on. She had NOT used it all day, yet the entire case was hot!

The fuse wasn't blown at the panel. I Unplugged it and its cool this morning. Still won't turn on though. The manual after running through its check list states that there's a thermal limiter switch in the unit.

What I don't understand is why the unit was hot in the first place...when it hadn't been run.

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#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 30 November 2005 - 04:41 AM

The problem with the constant heat was either the centrifugal switch in the motor or a grounded heating element. The grounded heating element is easy to check for using you ohm meter-- just measure the resistance from one of the heating element terminals to the heating element case. Should read open (infinite resistance). If that checks out ok, then you most likely need a new motor-- would need to feast my squinties on the wiring diagram for your dryer to be certain.

#3 Rotary

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Posted 30 November 2005 - 05:30 AM

I sure appreciate the response. Now here's a newbie question. I replaced the heating element a while ago. But now, I've got the top off, but don't remember how the drum comes out to access the heater element on the back wall. I have to work through the top of the dryer. Where did I find the dissassembly instructions...help!?

#4 Pegi

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Posted 30 November 2005 - 05:30 AM

Ask and you will receive....WIRING DIAGRAM....

Model FSE447GHS0 Stackable Dryer

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#5 Pegi

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Posted 30 November 2005 - 05:35 AM

Dryer dis-assembly help here....
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#6 Rotary

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Posted 30 November 2005 - 06:29 AM

OK, got it dissassembled, drum is out. I hook up my multimeter (new battery first), so what do I set the ohm setting to? its got ranges from 2000K to 200 and all of them, no matter where I touch the probes on the heater element read "1". Is that infinity? The reading never changes. When I touch the probes to each other, the readings change and then goes to "1". Am I not reading this thing correctly?
If everything is good in terms of the "1", do I now need a new motor?

#7 Rotary

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Posted 30 November 2005 - 06:36 AM

Woops, addendum. If I put one probe on each of the terminals of the heater coil, it goes down to 12.2...

#8 Pegi

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Posted 30 November 2005 - 06:42 AM

You want to see if you get a reading when one probe is touching the element and the other touching any metal part of the case or canister with the meter set on the highest reading, if the reading changes the element is grounded. Can you see where the element might have been touching the canister or the back of the drum?? Would see a mark like black and pitting where the element was touching...your dryer cannot heat when it is off unless the element is grounded or the motor switch is giving power to the motor, the motor should not give power to the element unless it is running.
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#9 Rotary

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Posted 30 November 2005 - 07:23 AM

Appreciate the reply.
Touching both terminals results in the 12.2. If I disconnect one of the leads same story. BUT, if I touch one lead to the terminal and one of the leads to the case, no reading. Meter set to the highest level. No movement at all.

Same, by the way, for the thermal limiter (attached to back wall, 2 pink wires?) No movement at all from the meter.

So, am I out a heating element and a thermal limiter?

#10 Rotary

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Posted 30 November 2005 - 07:25 AM

One more thing since I can't edit my posts, no grounding evidence in the way of black marks...

#11 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 30 November 2005 - 07:29 AM

Your heating element tests good; your thermal fuse is open (bad).

http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=916824

But we kinda knew that, what we're trying to correct is the cause for the overheat condition that blew the thermal fuse 'cuz if'n we don't, it'll just go poof again. So, we're down to a stuck centrifugal switch on the motor. That'll take some live voltage tests and reeeal kidneys, Hoss. Ready to rock?

#12 Rotary

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Posted 30 November 2005 - 07:33 AM

Yeah, lay it on me! Am I working with 220V at this time??
I'm ready to rock!

#13 Pegi

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Posted 30 November 2005 - 07:37 AM

Might want to take a good look at the motor switch, see if you have some lint blocking the clutch inside of the motor, not releasing the button on the switch. 
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#14 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 30 November 2005 - 07:38 AM

Ok, first I need a better copy of your wiring diagram-- I damn near went blind trying to read that one! :borg: Fax it to me at 775-416-4449 and I'll post it here.

#15 Rotary

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Posted 30 November 2005 - 07:47 AM

Looking at the motor, there doesn't seem to be another switch on it. I can turn the pulley end easily though there's a little noise when turning it, a soft swooshing sound kind of like disc brakes on a rotor when turning the rotor. Nothing squealling. Plug is on...don't know what else to check...
Ralf

#16 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 30 November 2005 - 07:50 AM

I done told ya what to check! :beating:

We need a legible copy of your wiring diagram to proceed. Are you one of those fax-impaired grasshoppers?

#17 Rotary

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Posted 30 November 2005 - 08:09 AM

Absolutely :) Very fax impaired.
I thought you were talking to Pegi. I don't have a fax machine. Also, centrifugal switch not available separately for that motor. Sorry, not quite understanding what you need me to do at this point.

#18 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 30 November 2005 - 08:20 AM

Where we're at now is that I need a legible copy of your wiring diagram if I'm going to be able to direct you on where to make your voltage checks on the motor's centrifugal switch. You have the original. So, we're at a crossroads:

1. You go to Kinkos and fax me the diagram so I can help you, or

2. You read the diagram yourself and take it from here.

Call the ball, Hoss.

#19 Rotary

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Posted 30 November 2005 - 08:33 AM

Appreciate your patience.

I don't have the original of the diagram. Pegi posted it and I can't read it real well either. Tried printing it and enlarging it, to no avail. It comes out real blurry and if I tried to fax it, it could not get any better.

What I did do is take the electrical terminal piece of the motor. I cleaned that up as there was some lint there. Especially on the little foot that seems to hang down.

Guess I'm looking at a new motor. That seems to be the problem if I read all the advice gathered above. Sound about right?

#20 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 30 November 2005 - 09:34 AM

Did you look inside the control panel? That's usually where it lives.

We need the diagram to do confirming tests. Otherwise, we're just throwing parts at it like Monkey Boy. :pisser:

And Homey don't play dat.




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