27 replies to this topic

[cpuken]

We have a Frigidaire FRS6GR5JSB1 side by side. A week or so ago the wife noticed the refregerator side was not as cold as it should be.. turns out she was right. The freezer appears to be working (food is frozen) but the temp on the fridge side is in the low 50s.
A local repair guy came by yesterday and checked out a few things. He says he may need to replace both thermostats (over $400 cost), I'm not sure he is correct. He did unplug the unit and says if we are lucky, the system may reset itself and it will cool poperly... well, that didn't work.

What do you guys think? If the freezer is cold shouldn't the problem be the cold air is not getting over to the fridge side properly?

After looking around on this site, could it be the damper control assembly? How would I check it?

Please help.
Thanks
Ken

[RegUS_PatOff]

Would need to see if the Damper is "open"
It may also be a Defrost problem.
May need to see the frost pattern of the Evaporator Coils inside the Freezer
and to see if the Evaporator Fan is working.
To initiate defrost, depress the fresh food light switch 5 times in 6 seconds (light bulb must be working).
To terminate defrost, depress the fresh food light switch 5 times in 6 seconds.

[cpuken]

When should the damper be open?? If I take off that assembly and prop the damper open, can I assume the temp in the fridge should get colder then it currently is (assuming the problem was that the damper was not opening)??

I'm trying to think of things that (1) I can understand (2) that I can accomplish. With those restrictions, I'm limited to what I can try/test.

If the professional repair guy didn't mention evaporator coils or defrost issues, I'm not going to investigate in those directions (for now), plus, I'd need to understand things a lot better to tackle those.

thanks
Ken

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Remove the back panel inside the freezer (all the food and shelving have to come out) and get some eyeball action on the evaporator coil. Take a photo and post here. Compare with ==> http://fixitnow.com/...-frost-pattern/

If it's choked in with frost, then we have a defrost problem to troubleshoot.

[RegUS_PatOff]

... When should the damper be open??

when the Fridge isn't cool enough, but the Evaporator Fan must also be running

[cpuken]

Remove the back panel inside the freezer (all the food and shelving have to come out) and get some eyeball action on the evaporator coil. Take a photo and post here. Compare with ==> http://fixitnow.com/...-frost-pattern/ If it's choked in with frost, then we have a defrost problem to troubleshoot.

OK, I took some pics of the evaporator coils but can't figure out how to post it here.
(the pics look normal but I'd like to have you guys confirm)
thanks
Ken

[cpuken]

Remove the back panel inside the freezer (all the food and shelving have to come out) and get some eyeball action on the evaporator coil. Take a photo and post here. Compare with ==> http://fixitnow.com/...-frost-pattern/

If it's choked in with frost, then we have a defrost problem to troubleshoot.

OK, figured out how to upload pics

[cpuken]

I have a couple of theoretical questions while I wait to figure out what's wrong with my fridge.

Assuming the other potential problems mentioned earlier have been ruled out (not a defrost problem or porblem with the coils, etc.)...

Let's say the fridge needs more cold air so the thermostat calls for more cold air, the damper control assembly gets the message for cold air and it opens the damper to allow cold air from the freezer to enter the fridge. How can I tell:
1) the fridge thermostat called for cold air but the damper control assembly is broken and doesn't open the damper?
2) the fridge thermostat DOESN'T call for cold air, the damper control assembly is working fine but the thermostat isn't calling for more cold air.
===================================================================================
Both of these conditions result in the same problem, the fridge is too warm. How can you then determine where the problem lies??

(this is just me trying to figure out where to go next... I removed the entire assembly and proped open the damper about 1/8 to 1/4 inch just to see what happens)

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Nice job figuring out and using the Gallery!

Evaporator frost looks good. You can rule out a defrosting or sealed system problem. You have an air flow problem: evaporator fan or damper.

Make sure the evap fan is running full speed.

With the beer section warm, the damper should be wide open. Get some eyeball action on it and see. If the damper is closed, the problem will either be the damper motor or the cold control... though on this one, the ADC may control the damper motor, would need to see your wiring diagram to know for sure. You can add it to your gallery or fax it to me toll free at 866-315-4504 (though you probably won't need to-- whenever I say this, Reg posts the diagram. ).

[RegUS_PatOff]

... though you probably won't need to-- whenever I say this, Reg posts the diagram.

[cpuken]

Nice job figuring out and using the Gallery!


With the beer section warm, the damper should be wide open. Get some eyeball action on it and see. If the damper is closed, the problem will either be the damper motor or the cold control... though on this one, the ADC may control the damper motor, ........ ).

OK, where do I go from here?
I'm not sure how to tell if/when the damper is open! or how to determine if the damper motor control or thermostat are the problem.

I can tell you what I did do was remove the damper control/thermostat housing and added a couple of foam spacers to force the damper door
open about 1/4 inch. This resulted in the fridge temp going from about 48 degrees down to about 30 degrees!!! This has been a great temporary
fix but I'm guessing you guys don't like this as a permanent fix. I'm hoping that this result may assist the smart people here in diagnosing the real problem.

I think this demonstrats that the damper is not opening when it should... I'm just not sure if it is due to the thermostat not calling for it to open or that the thermostat is working but the damper control motor just isn't working.

Any ideas?
thanks
Ken

[RegUS_PatOff]

some electrical tests would need to be done using the posted wiring diagram

[cpuken]

some electrical tests would need to be done using the posted wiring diagram

That exceeds my limited abilities

Since I don't have the expertise to do the electrical test (I do have a meter but little or no knowledge on how/where to use it in this case...)
how about helping my try to use a logical progression to rule out some items.
As I mentioned earlier, the Professional Tech who checked it out a few days ago said he wanted to replace Both thermostats.
1) is it common to replace both thermostats at the same time?

I went in the fridge this morning and turned down the Freezer Thermostat, at that time I heard a fan kick off... To me that tells me the freezer thermostat is working just fine.
2) Is that a wrong or bad assumption?

3) If I'm correct, then it's down to either the refregerator thermostat or the Damper Control Assembly right??

If that logic is correct then I could purchase both those items, replace one... see if it works. If it does work then I just return the unused thermostat. or, would it make more sense to replace the fridge thermostat 1st and see if it works.

Oh, I checked the temp in the fridge this morning and it was about 24 degrees.... yea, a little chilly... that's why I tried turning down both thermostats.

[RegUS_PatOff]

1) is it common to replace both thermostats at the same time?

2) To me that tells me the freezer thermostat is working just fine.

3) If I'm correct, then it's down to either the refregerator thermostat or the Damper Control Assembly right??

If that logic is correct then I could purchase both those items, replace one... see if it works. If it does work then I just return the unused thermostat..

1) no, not both ..

2) yes

3) yes, OR the Controller

4) yes, Fridge Thermostat & Damper Assembly & Controller

OR find someone you know that can do some off those electrical tests

http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1196510

 

http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1194800

 

http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1614983

 

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

OK, where do I go from here?
I'm not sure how to tell if/when the damper is open! or how to determine if the damper motor control or thermostat are the problem.

This is a visual. Open the beer compartment door and locate the port where the cold air is supposed to come in: upper LHS. You may see a louvered plastic grill over it. That's the damper port. Look to see if the damper vanes are coated in frost. That's just preliminary.

The next step is to determine if the damper is getting voltage. Set your meter lead on J10 of the ADC board and the other lead to a known ground. Unplug fridge, wait a bit and plug back in. Damper should try to open and you should see 120vac on your meter. No voltage== bad ADC. Good voltage== bad damper.

No meter, no know-how? No problem! Buy both parts, replace one at a time and return the one you don't need.

Part links:

ADC board ==> http://www.repaircli...ber=FRS6HR5JSB1

Damper assembly ==> http://www.repaircli...1600905/1194800

[cpuken]

crap, crap, crap...
My temp fix of proping the damper control door open (about 1/4 inch) has led to additional problems. Overnight things froze up in the fridge and something cracked in the water filter housing. I can't figure out what. I've removed the cover off the filter housing and it's not obvious where the problem lies. If I call for water, water comes pouring out of the unit. I checked the large O ring and it appears OK. I'll upload a pic of the system later.

1) How do those hose connections actually connect/disconnect?
2) Is this assembly available for purchase (part #)?

Thanks
Ken

[certified tech group 51]

Get a mirror to view the backside......You will probably need p/n 240434301..........Gotta order one myself, customers damper door stuck open, froze the water in the filter housing..........Quik-disconnect fittings........pull the fittings collar towards the body of the fitting, slips right off....

[cpuken]

Thanks.

I just ordered an O Ring, Damper Control assembly and the filter housing.
After removing the existing filter housing, it had a big crack down the back side.
I only hope the damper control assembly was the source of the original problem...
If not, I'll try the fridge thermostat... if that doesn't work, then we are down to defrost control board.

[certified tech group 51]

The friggy model I am working on has a complete control assy.............New damper, both cold controls, A.D.C. board and housing.......P/N 5304482075.......$210.00.......................I checked, but yours does not use this repair kit...........................Bummer......... ( possible service flash on your model number for this kit ) .

[cpuken]

Didn't realize how much we use the ice maker until I had to shut it off.
While waiting on my replacement filter housing and o-ring, I dissanbled that section (thanks for the tip on how to remove the hoses).
Then I had an idea for a temporary way to reconnect the ice maker. I used one of the connectors used to connect the water hoses to the
filter housing and just connected in inlet water line to the outl.et water line... for a temporary solution to using the icemaker while awaiting parts.
So far, after 24 hours, it appears to be working just fine.
Replacement parts due to arrive today and keeping my fingers crossed that the damper control unit will fix the initial/main problem.