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notonyourtintype

Frigidaire GLTF2940 Washer Door Lock Control Fubar

5 posts in this topic

Hi folks,

I took heart after looking at the other forum that ask "why won't this puppy spin and drain," and with the help I was finding here took my DVM and screwdriver in hand and went hunting. We, too, had been suddenly seeing the machine NOT locking the door and then failing to advance in to spin/drain, leaving about three inches of water and soggy clothes in the drum last night.

This morning doing the Error Code diagnostics, it displayed E41, and when attempting to cancel past that, PAU. Multiple cycles of dropping power at the breaker box (right above the washer) etc. failed to clear.

Door strike looked OK, so tested the continuity across J2... seems open. Pulled the door lock mechanism (reached down from the top, rather than fussing with removing the door boot. Is that kosher, or have I now cursed myself somehow?)

Wax motor measures 1141 ohms, which seems reasonable? Solenoid coil seems to have an open circuit.

So three questions come to mind...

(1) Is the solenoid coil itself a replacement part or do I have to buy the whole door lock assembly? (The rocker latch mechanism, switch contacts etc., inside all seem good).

(2) While I am AWP on this (we live in Panama, with an American spec unit, and would have parts mailed to us via forwarder in Miami, so it could be a week), it seems as if I just jumpered the NO switch contacts on the solenoid side (not the wax motor ones), with the door lock mechanism back in place of course, then the control panel would think the lock had engaged and press on to the next cycle. Does that seem reasonable, or just plain dumb?

(after all, if I promise NOT to try to open the door while the machine's full of water, won't that be okay?)

and

(3) darn, it was there a minute ago...

Thanks in advance!

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

... displayed E41

(1) Is the solenoid coil itself a replacement part or do I have to buy the whole door lock assembly?

(2) While I am AWP on this (we live in Panama

E4x is usually a Door Lock problem

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1531974

 

Door-Switch-131763202-01235823.jpg

 

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Cheater cord test on the wax motor verifies it works just fine; the solenoid, though, does not operate when power is applied to it.

I also have reconsidered the "operate without door latch," and given how easily that door pops open... doesn't sound like a good thing to do.

So it looks like a new door latch is in my future...

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Replace lock and latch if it's broken or worn badly!

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Latch/switch problems very common.

Replace that puppy.

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