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whitestroke

Monogram ZISS420DRCS side by side built-in Frig, FF at 42 deg.

36 posts in this topic

FF is at 42 and freezer is -4 degrees(bad). If i unplug for a 48 hrs. it will stay at 0 and 34(good) for about 2 days then go back to 42 and -4(bad).

Lots of condensation in upper left corner and ice buildup in black slot in picture. There is also ice behind behind foam/dampner.

ry%3D400

Tray below compressor fills with water when frig is unplugged (see rust) and

ry%3D400

then tray overflows and drips where you see the blue tape at least a few cups maybe a quart..

ry%3D400

I've seen TwwinDragon post but am not allowed to reply. Did the kit below fix his problem? Is this what I need to fix my problem? Can I do this myself? I'm very good with tools and fixxing things, do the instructions in the kit below guide you through all the steps to install it?

http://www.repaircli...49X10021/824535

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

That is the kit you need for the problem you're having. It's a PITA to install but the instructions are good and detailed. Just follow them carefully.

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sounds like a classic Defrost problem ..

When the Fridge fails to cool, post a picture of the Evaporator Coils inside the Freezer.

and check both Door Gaskets

check the Gaskets using the George Wa$hington test.

Close the Door on George and slide him around to check to be sure he stays snug.

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Seals are perfect. You can't see the evap. coils without taking everything apart.. Lots of ice at air entrance and exit to evap. coils (water drops in picture).

Grand Master

Okay, so I bought Icing Kit WR49X10021 . I've now been searching for some instructions for the install and I come across GE Icing Kit # AP2636547 on another web site. Do I have the right Kit I puchased from you? There kit list my Frig. Monogram ZISS420DRCS and is more expensive.

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Your icing kit was the right one, good price! But now i'm worried that this is not the problem. The tray heater below shows 325 ohms same as the new one in icing kit.

ry%3D400

No air getting through condenser, lots of ice.

ry%3D400

Defrost heater in mirror shows 40 ohms.

ry%3D400

What now? Beers getting warm.Mamas getting hot.

Replace the thermostat looking thing on the condenser?

Replace the Motherboard?

Replace? Check?

HELLLLLLLP.

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Does the Tray heater and defrost/condenser heater come on at the same time? Are they on the same circuit?

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Page 61 from 31-9117 Monogram Inverter Compressor SxS

for service manuals and other perks, Become an Apprentice

pagefrom319117monogrami.jpg

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Isn't the main part of the Icing Kit the Heater Tray you see in the above pic?. That is the original Heater Tray, and it has the same resistance across the leads as the new Heater Tray.

Am I to believe that a couple of pieces of insulation in the kit will stop my icing problem?

When manually defrosted Temps quit working properly in 2 days.

I checked Defrost Heater and Terminator by Jumping J9 to J11 = Defrost Heater comes ON.

When I go in Diagnostic Mode using touch-pad (as in above diagram) and do Defrost Test (14) = Defrost Heater NOT Working.

All Thermistors check out good (P) in Diagnostic Test

Now What?.

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Doesn't the Themistor tell the board to turn on the the Defrost Heater?

Before I buy a new board is there a way to manually check Thermistors???

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Yes the evap thermistor tells the computer when to defrost. You can test thermistors manually at the J1 connector. For the defrost (evap) thermistor, unplug fridge, remove j1 connector, test ohm across pin 5 (counting from left to right) and Pin 4 on the connector. If your thermistor is covered with ice, you should get a reading of 16.6k ohms.+-5% . If your themistor is not covered with ice , place the probe part of the thermistor in a cup of ice water (mostly Ice) and wait 5 minutes (trying to achieve reference temp of 32 degrees) then you should get a reading of 16.3 ohms +-5%

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Thanks Durham for the testing procedure

Test is right but OHM readings are off. Evap. Thermistor is and should be reading 30 ohms or 10degrees (digital frig. read-out says 0 degrees). Perfect!

GE Thermistors are :

https://skitch.com/appliantology/fwnfi/ge-refrigerator-thermistor-chart

Thermistors all check out good.

Time for a new board I guess?

Now that I know how to jumper J9 to J11 to turn on Defrost Heater. How often and for how long should I keep the jumpers on to keep condenser from icing up? Just looking for some kind of baseline till I get a grasp of the time for the condenser to ice up. Trying to keep the Misses happy till the new board arrives.

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... I know how to jumper J9 to J11 to turn on Defrost Heater. How often and for how long should I keep the jumpers on to keep condenser from icing up? ... ... Just looking for some kind of baseline till I get a grasp of the time for the condenser to ice up.

... while the Cold Control is turned OFF

maybe about 10 minutes once or twice a day ..

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Thanks Durham for the testing procedure

Test is right but OHM readings are off.

Wanna make a bet? Check your chart for 32 degrees. 16.3 K as stated. Using ice water method is usually best as you have a controlled temperature and not relying on temp readings provided by a board that may be getting temp readings from a faulty thermistor. Also stated 16.6 only if the thermistor is covered with ice and therefore insulated from freezer temps...but again, ice water method is best. Also If your thermistors are of the old style (using a black sealant where wires enter thermister as opposed to completely white thermistor) change them anyhow.

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A new board fixed the problem. :rocker:

Didn't need to install the deice kit, O-well. It was loads of fun, can't wait for the defrost heater to go out. :yucky:

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OOOPPPP'SS I thought new board fixed problem!

This may be a different problem or related?

Everything worked fine for 2 weeks since new board was replaced now my FF is 40 degrees and my freezer is at -16 .

Should I replace all 5 themistors.?

They are all the new style already and they check out PASS on the Diagnostis Test.

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The best way to test the thermistors are in ice water..............

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To test them in ice water I need to cut them out? Then solder them back in. Seems it would be best just to replace them if you have to do all that.

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No cutting necessary. Put them in Ice water (mostly ice as you want to achieve reference temp of 32 degrees f) one at a time and test them on the j1 connector on the mainboard. Counting from left to right, put your black lead on the 5th pin, and your red lead on pin one and test the ohms. This is a fresh food thermistor. Pin 2 is also for fresh food but only if your fridge has two fresh food thermistors ) Pins 3 and 4 are freezer and evap thermistors respectively. Back probing the connector is usually easier.

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For the past 3 years I've been jumping the J9 to J11 terminal on motherboard to defrost the coils.  This needs to happen every couple of days and takes about 2 hours. If I put my fingers in the dampner door I can break out the ice, also at the intake vent I can see ice. Temps are approx. -8 and 40 degrees when I resort to jumping defroster every couple days.

I've replaced the mother board (twice) and the water tray with heater below the coils (it drains fine). When I put frig in diagnostic mode everything seems to check out okay. The Climate Control Drawer has no  led readout and has not worked since before defrost problem.

I got a spare refrigerator yesterday. I'm ready to fix this problem NOW. Where do I start? Replace all Thermistors? Replace all heaters?

:woot: Point me in the right direction I'm ready to go.

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you didn't check/replace evap thermistor? That is always suspect numero uno.

The onboard diagnostics only reveal whether the thermistor is properly connected and sending signals. It does not test whether the thermistor is out of calibration. It may be telling the board the evap is at 70f. This will not show up as a failed thermistor in the diagnostics.

Edited by DurhamAppliance

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I cut out the 4 thermistors 2 in the FF and 1 on the evaporator and ! in freezer compartment. At room temperature (70degrees) they all read between 5.2K to 5.5K ohms.

In a cup of ice water they all read between 14.8K to 15.8K ohms.

Seems good to me?  :rolleyes:

The defrost heater reads 40 ohms. 

Both doors seal good when closed.

Evaporator pan/heater drains good when manually defrosted with jumper, at least water fills compressor pan.

Could the nonworking Climate Control Drawer have something to do with it? :rolleyes:

 

Not sure what to do? :rolleyes:

I'll replace the 4 Thermistors. Should I also replace the overtemp thermostat? could this be shutting down the heater at to cool a temperature? :rolleyes: 

If problem persists after this I''l replace the Motherboard for the (3rd time).

Am I missing anything? :rolleyes:  

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your limit/thermostat is fine, otherwise you couldn't defrost at the board.

Is your evap fan running smoothly? A bad evap or Condenser fan motor can trash a board (jumping the board continously isn't the healthiest thing you can do for a board either)

Post some pictures of your evap frost pattern , your issue may be due to frozen condensation as opposed to a defrost failure. If your issue is frozen vents, standard defrosting may not remove all of the ice. Ice is a crystal and according to crystal growth theory, crystals grow faster when crystal is already present (seed crystal) so eliminating ALL ice is important otherwise it can overwhelm your defrost system.

btw, did you test the thermistors at the board, although diagnostics may have alerted you, testing thermistors at the board provides additional info such as wire and connection integrity.

Edited by DurhamAppliance

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The evaporator thermistor controls the initiation and termination of the defrost cycle.  Because it is in a wet environment and exposed to large temperature fluctuations, it tends to be the most common one to fail, usually from water getting into them.  These sensors can check good at temperature but go flakey or intermittent while in operation and under load.  

 

Don't over think this one-- replace the evap thermistor (the one directly attached to the evaporator coil) like Brother Durham said.  Part number: AP3185407

Part number: AP3185407

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i would disconnect custom climate control drawer from wire harness - If water got into its control brd n damaged it - keeping compressor on ? 

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