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Monogram ZISS420DRCS side by side built-in Frig, FF at 42 deg.

Warm Frig cold freezer

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35 replies to this topic

#1 whitestroke

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Posted 02 April 2012 - 08:18 PM

FF is at 42 and freezer is -4 degrees(bad). If i unplug for a 48 hrs. it will stay at 0 and 34(good) for about 2 days then go back to 42 and -4(bad).
Lots of condensation in upper left corner and ice buildup in black slot in picture. There is also ice behind behind foam/dampner.

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Tray below compressor fills with water when frig is unplugged (see rust) and


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then tray overflows and drips where you see the blue tape at least a few cups maybe a quart..
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I've seen TwwinDragon post but am not allowed to reply. Did the kit below fix his problem? Is this what I need to fix my problem? Can I do this myself? I'm very good with tools and fixxing things, do the instructions in the kit below guide you through all the steps to install it?

http://www.repaircli...49X10021/824535

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#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 02 April 2012 - 08:49 PM

That is the kit you need for the problem you're having. It's a PITA to install but the instructions are good and detailed. Just follow them carefully.

#3 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 02 April 2012 - 09:50 PM

sounds like a classic Defrost problem ..
When the Fridge fails to cool, post a picture of the Evaporator Coils inside the Freezer.
and check both Door Gaskets
check the Gaskets using the George Wa$hington test.
Close the Door on George and slide him around to check to be sure he stays snug.
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#4 whitestroke

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Posted 03 April 2012 - 12:26 PM

Seals are perfect. You can't see the evap. coils without taking everything apart.. Lots of ice at air entrance and exit to evap. coils (water drops in picture).

Grand Master
Okay, so I bought Icing Kit WR49X10021 . I've now been searching for some instructions for the install and I come across GE Icing Kit # AP2636547 on another web site. Do I have the right Kit I puchased from you? There kit list my Frig. Monogram ZISS420DRCS and is more expensive.

#5 whitestroke

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 02:16 AM

Your icing kit was the right one, good price! But now i'm worried that this is not the problem. The tray heater below shows 325 ohms same as the new one in icing kit.
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No air getting through condenser, lots of ice.

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Defrost heater in mirror shows 40 ohms.
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What now? Beers getting warm.Mamas getting hot.
Replace the thermostat looking thing on the condenser?
Replace the Motherboard?
Replace? Check?
HELLLLLLLP.

#6 whitestroke

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 02:21 AM

Does the Tray heater and defrost/condenser heater come on at the same time? Are they on the same circuit?

#7 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 09:05 AM

Page 61 from 31-9117 Monogram Inverter Compressor SxS
for service manuals and other perks, Become an Apprentice
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#8 whitestroke

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 04:48 PM

Isn't the main part of the Icing Kit the Heater Tray you see in the above pic?. That is the original Heater Tray, and it has the same resistance across the leads as the new Heater Tray.
Am I to believe that a couple of pieces of insulation in the kit will stop my icing problem?
When manually defrosted Temps quit working properly in 2 days.

I checked Defrost Heater and Terminator by Jumping J9 to J11 = Defrost Heater comes ON.
When I go in Diagnostic Mode using touch-pad (as in above diagram) and do Defrost Test (14) = Defrost Heater NOT Working.
All Thermistors check out good (P) in Diagnostic Test

Now What?.

#9 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 05:02 PM

.. Jumping J9 to J11 = Defrost Heater comes ON.
... Defrost Test (14) = Defrost Heater NOT Working.

sounds like a bad Controller
http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1194661

 

Main-Control-Board-WR55X10560-00739081.j


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#10 whitestroke

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 05:25 PM

Doesn't the Themistor tell the board to turn on the the Defrost Heater?
Before I buy a new board is there a way to manually check Thermistors???

#11 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 06:08 PM

Yes the evap thermistor tells the computer when to defrost. You can test thermistors manually at the J1 connector. For the defrost (evap) thermistor, unplug fridge, remove j1 connector, test ohm across pin 5 (counting from left to right) and Pin 4 on the connector. If your thermistor is covered with ice, you should get a reading of 16.6k ohms.+-5% . If your themistor is not covered with ice , place the probe part of the thermistor in a cup of ice water (mostly Ice) and wait 5 minutes (trying to achieve reference temp of 32 degrees) then you should get a reading of 16.3 ohms +-5%

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#12 whitestroke

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 12:58 PM

Thanks Durham for the testing procedure
Test is right but OHM readings are off. Evap. Thermistor is and should be reading 30 ohms or 10degrees (digital frig. read-out says 0 degrees). Perfect!
GE Thermistors are :
https://skitch.com/a...hermistor-chart
Thermistors all check out good.

Time for a new board I guess?

Now that I know how to jumper J9 to J11 to turn on Defrost Heater. How often and for how long should I keep the jumpers on to keep condenser from icing up? Just looking for some kind of baseline till I get a grasp of the time for the condenser to ice up. Trying to keep the Misses happy till the new board arrives.

#13 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 01:07 PM

... I know how to jumper J9 to J11 to turn on Defrost Heater. How often and for how long should I keep the jumpers on to keep condenser from icing up? ... ... Just looking for some kind of baseline till I get a grasp of the time for the condenser to ice up.

... while the Cold Control is turned OFF
maybe about 10 minutes once or twice a day ..
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#14 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 01:45 PM

Thanks Durham for the testing procedure
Test is right but OHM readings are off.


Wanna make a bet? Check your chart for 32 degrees. 16.3 K as stated. Using ice water method is usually best as you have a controlled temperature and not relying on temp readings provided by a board that may be getting temp readings from a faulty thermistor. Also stated 16.6 only if the thermistor is covered with ice and therefore insulated from freezer temps...but again, ice water method is best. Also If your thermistors are of the old style (using a black sealant where wires enter thermister as opposed to completely white thermistor) change them anyhow.

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#15 whitestroke

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Posted 24 April 2012 - 11:32 PM

A new board fixed the problem. :rocker:
Didn't need to install the deice kit, O-well. It was loads of fun, can't wait for the defrost heater to go out. :yucky:

#16 whitestroke

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Posted 02 May 2012 - 12:56 PM

OOOPPPP'SS I thought new board fixed problem!
This may be a different problem or related?
Everything worked fine for 2 weeks since new board was replaced now my FF is 40 degrees and my freezer is at -16 .

Should I replace all 5 themistors.?
They are all the new style already and they check out PASS on the Diagnostis Test.

#17 certified tech group 51

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Posted 02 May 2012 - 09:27 PM

The best way to test the thermistors are in ice water..............

#18 whitestroke

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Posted 02 May 2012 - 10:56 PM

To test them in ice water I need to cut them out? Then solder them back in. Seems it would be best just to replace them if you have to do all that.

#19 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 03:53 PM

No cutting necessary. Put them in Ice water (mostly ice as you want to achieve reference temp of 32 degrees f) one at a time and test them on the j1 connector on the mainboard. Counting from left to right, put your black lead on the 5th pin, and your red lead on pin one and test the ohms. This is a fresh food thermistor. Pin 2 is also for fresh food but only if your fridge has two fresh food thermistors ) Pins 3 and 4 are freezer and evap thermistors respectively. Back probing the connector is usually easier.

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#20 whitestroke

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 02:51 PM

For the past 3 years I've been jumping the J9 to J11 terminal on motherboard to defrost the coils.  This needs to happen every couple of days and takes about 2 hours. If I put my fingers in the dampner door I can break out the ice, also at the intake vent I can see ice. Temps are approx. -8 and 40 degrees when I resort to jumping defroster every couple days.

I've replaced the mother board (twice) and the water tray with heater below the coils (it drains fine). When I put frig in diagnostic mode everything seems to check out okay. The Climate Control Drawer has no  led readout and has not worked since before defrost problem.

I got a spare refrigerator yesterday. I'm ready to fix this problem NOW. Where do I start? Replace all Thermistors? Replace all heaters?

:woot: Point me in the right direction I'm ready to go.







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