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Monogram ZISS420DRCS side by side built-in Frig, FF at 42 deg.

Warm Frig cold freezer

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35 replies to this topic

#21 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 03:22 PM

you didn't check/replace evap thermistor? That is always suspect numero uno.
The onboard diagnostics only reveal whether the thermistor is properly connected and sending signals. It does not test whether the thermistor is out of calibration. It may be telling the board the evap is at 70f. This will not show up as a failed thermistor in the diagnostics.

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 17 July 2014 - 03:24 PM.

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#22 whitestroke

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Posted 18 July 2014 - 10:29 PM

I cut out the 4 thermistors 2 in the FF and 1 on the evaporator and ! in freezer compartment. At room temperature (70degrees) they all read between 5.2K to 5.5K ohms.

In a cup of ice water they all read between 14.8K to 15.8K ohms.

Seems good to me?  :rolleyes:

The defrost heater reads 40 ohms. 

Both doors seal good when closed.

Evaporator pan/heater drains good when manually defrosted with jumper, at least water fills compressor pan.

Could the nonworking Climate Control Drawer have something to do with it? :rolleyes:

 

Not sure what to do? :rolleyes:

I'll replace the 4 Thermistors. Should I also replace the overtemp thermostat? could this be shutting down the heater at to cool a temperature? :rolleyes: 

If problem persists after this I''l replace the Motherboard for the (3rd time).

Am I missing anything? :rolleyes:  



#23 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 19 July 2014 - 05:22 AM

your limit/thermostat is fine, otherwise you couldn't defrost at the board.

Is your evap fan running smoothly? A bad evap or Condenser fan motor can trash a board (jumping the board continously isn't the healthiest thing you can do for a board either)

Post some pictures of your evap frost pattern , your issue may be due to frozen condensation as opposed to a defrost failure. If your issue is frozen vents, standard defrosting may not remove all of the ice. Ice is a crystal and according to crystal growth theory, crystals grow faster when crystal is already present (seed crystal) so eliminating ALL ice is important otherwise it can overwhelm your defrost system.

btw, did you test the thermistors at the board, although diagnostics may have alerted you, testing thermistors at the board provides additional info such as wire and connection integrity.

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 20 July 2014 - 04:52 AM.

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#24 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 19 July 2014 - 08:04 AM

The evaporator thermistor controls the initiation and termination of the defrost cycle.  Because it is in a wet environment and exposed to large temperature fluctuations, it tends to be the most common one to fail, usually from water getting into them.  These sensors can check good at temperature but go flakey or intermittent while in operation and under load.  

 

Don't over think this one-- replace the evap thermistor (the one directly attached to the evaporator coil) like Brother Durham said.  Part number: AP3185407

Part number: AP3185407



#25 lvasquez11

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Posted 19 July 2014 - 10:20 AM

i would disconnect custom climate control drawer from wire harness - If water got into its control brd n damaged it - keeping compressor on ? 



#26 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 19 July 2014 - 02:47 PM

Good catch Ivasquez, I missed his statement regarding problems with the customer climate board. This board (and there is a fan as well) could be causing mainboard failures.


Screenshot_2014-07-19-15-09-49_zpslpipye

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 19 July 2014 - 02:48 PM.

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#27 whitestroke

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Posted 19 July 2014 - 03:52 PM

There are pictures of Evap frost pattern from when I first attempted to fix defrost problem 2 years ago here>

 http://appliantology...eg/#entry231518

I've been manually defrosting ever since.

 

I've ordered 4 new thermistors and a new motherboard.

Both (comp. & evap.) fans seem to work fine.  Should I replace them both or wait till I have a new motherboard? :rolleyes:  

I will disconnect climate control board. That is J4 on motherboard, correct? This is all I need to do to take it out of the equation? :rolleyes:  



#28 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 19 July 2014 - 04:18 PM

follow the procedure in the flow chart beginning with the step  after "no display or lights." 


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#29 whitestroke

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Posted 19 July 2014 - 11:45 PM

Disconnecting J4 at motherboard won't eliminate this as a problem?

 

Replacing Climate Control Board is not only expensive, it's also out off stock.

 
 
Qc Mullion Asm 42

 

by GE
Part Number AP4380258

 
Our Price $440.39
  • Out Of Stock
  • Ships Usually ships within 5 - 6 days
 


#30 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 20 July 2014 - 04:50 AM

Do you know what long term effect unplugging that connector will have? Is it possible to unplug the custom climate yet keep its thermistor active thereby not affecting board operations? The j4 connector does not house the climate control fan connections, could there be a short in the fan connection causing an issure at j2....who knows?

You have been dealing with this issue for a while now and if I am understanding you correctly, you are asking if you can avoid following the manufacturer's procedure which may or may not provide us some clues as to what is happening and instead do a shortcut?

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 20 July 2014 - 04:51 AM.

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#31 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 20 July 2014 - 05:08 AM

I merged this topic with your topic of 2 years ago.

2 years ago I questioned you regarding your evap thermistor readings. To this date you haven't changed that thermistor???

I will do whatever and take as long as is needed to assist on a repair. That is until I feel like I am wasting my time. That feeling is rapidly approaching.

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 20 July 2014 - 05:20 AM.

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#32 lvasquez11

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 05:31 PM

CONTROL POSITION 37-0 °F and
AMBIENT TEMPERATURE OF 70 °F 90 °F
Fresh Food, °F ....................... 35–39 .............. 37–48
Frozen Food, °F ..................... (-4)–4 .............. (-4)–4
Percent Running Time............. 60 .................... 80


#33 lvasquez11

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 05:54 PM

J5  on brd controls  chill / defrost heater / damper /thermistor for custom chill section 



#34 whitestroke

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Posted 12 October 2014 - 01:53 PM

I took everything apart to get at the evaporator thermistor. Cut out that thermistor and all others 5 total. They all seemed to be within 10% of each other. I decided to replace all thermistors, main board, climate control drawer board, defrost heater and heater cut-off. (1K of parts).  Frig has been working properly for a month now. I'm thinking the  climate control drawer board which had not been working (no led lights coming on) was blowing out the main board which I had replaced twice and frig was still icing over at the evaporator. Or maybe the frig. will not work without the climate control drawer board working properly. Anyway I'm keeping fingers crossed frig. continues to work properly.



#35 whitestroke

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Posted 12 October 2014 - 02:06 PM

Opps,  also replaced the evaporator fan. 

 

Maybe it was just the evaporator thermistor. Who knows?

Just glad it's working and now have all new electronics.



#36 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 12 October 2014 - 02:49 PM

More than likely... thermistor tolerance is only 5% but glad you got it working!

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