Jump to content

Learn appliance repair at the Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.

Parts Search
Site Search

FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact | Podcast

Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums

To get started, click here.

Already a member of Appliantology? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.



Bryant Air Handler don't start compressor

A/C Compressor capacitor

  • Please log in to reply
5 replies to this topic

#1 gabvoice2



  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 4 posts

Posted 05 April 2012 - 12:17 PM

I live in Florida.
My house was built in 2001.
I have Bryant Air Handler.
I can force the blower to blow, using the thermostat fan control,
But the air handler will not start the outside compressor.

I noticed this capacitor: Dietektrol VI HC91CA010D in the air handler,
could that need replacement?

Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#2 jb8103



  • Chief Appliantologist
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 540 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Ginger ale

Posted 08 April 2012 - 08:46 AM

No model number. But the first thing I would do is check the contacts on the outside unit. Carefully - there's 240 VAC out there.
  • Samurai Appliance Repair Man likes this
First, do no harm.

#3 jumptrout



  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,382 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Coors Light

Posted 08 April 2012 - 01:14 PM

Since the thermostat will operate the blower fan in the ON position,the transformer,fan motor and fan capacitor are OK.
Set the unit for COOL.
Remove the access panel to the condenser.
Use your volt meter to verify 220 volts at the incoming power side of the contactor.
If voltage is good there,
Use your volt meter to check the low voltage terminals on the high voltage contactor. These terminals are on the side of the contactor and probably YELLOW and BLUE in color.
If not voltage there you may be low on refrigerant and the controls are locked out on the low pressure switch.
If you do have high voltage and low voltage at the contactor,the contactor is stuck open or the terminals have ants in them.
  • Samurai Appliance Repair Man, kdog and Bullstok like this

#4 Bullstok



  • Appliantologist
  • PipPip
  • 90 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Mt. Dew

Posted 08 April 2012 - 10:50 PM

Or the compressor has open winding issues, loose or corroded terminals either at contactor or at compressor junction, a break in wire(s) from contactor to compressor, or compressor is locked out on overheat temporarily.

On second thought: First it would be easier to know for sure if the outside FAN is working or not. That would rule out a lot of electrical issues. I just assumed from ur first post...

Edited by Bullstok, 08 April 2012 - 11:13 PM.

  • kdog likes this

#5 Shootist



  • Appliantologist
  • PipPip
  • 60 posts

Posted 09 April 2012 - 08:37 AM

The air handler doesn't control the condensing unit; the thermostat does.
If nothing happens when you set the system to cool but the blower will run if you switch the fan switch to "on", you may have a thermostat problem. If the thermostat is digital, replace the batteries first thing. After that, pop the front off the thermostat and jump out "R" and "Y". If the outdoor unit runs then replace the thermostat.
  • Samurai Appliance Repair Man likes this

#6 Dan Webster

Dan Webster

    Paw Paw

  • Sublime Master of Appliantology
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,396 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Freebies

Posted 13 April 2012 - 12:04 PM

I put together a generic page with few thangs you can check on any outside unit their will be a capacitor; there is a compressor, a fan, and a magnetic contactor. Don't check anything without first making sure no power is going to the unit. In my neck of the woods we require a yank out box or a breaker to be mounted within 3 feet of the outside unit. MAKE SURE the power is off. If it is raining or water puddled around the unit wait till dryer conditions. Remove any antbeds and weeds from around the unit. Look for wasp nests in the yank out. Look for crispy critters in the contator, swollen capacitor or open solenoid on the contactor. Dogs can chew up those small wires to the outside unit and weedeaters also can play havoc on then tiny wires. You have 24 volts because you can manually make the fan motor come on so you need to make sure 24 volts is getting out to the unit. Note when you kill power to the unit outside that does not kill the 24 volts going out there to the unit.

Edited by applianceman18007260692, 13 April 2012 - 12:09 PM.

"May the hinges of our friendship never grow rusty"
-old Irish saying

Buy me a beer through paypal: dannywebster@ymail.com

0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users

FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact | Podcast

Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."

The Appliance Guru | Master Samurai Tech

Real Time Analytics