22 replies to this topic

[rican]

I ran a clean cycle on the lower oven and and an error came up on the console. I cleared it and don't remember it, but from reading here I am pretty sure a thermostat that controls the door lock went bad. The lower door remains locked and when I try to do anything it say HOT and won't go any farther. I cannot even use the top oven. Everything I read says take the back panel off and find bad part. Problem its that the screws to remove the side trim to begin the units removal are blocked by the lower door which I cannot open. Any other way to unlock the door from the front? Which part is likely the problem?

[RegUS_PatOff]

Do both Oven Control panels / Clocks "light up" ?
Can you try using the Lower Oven again to see if the Error Code will appear ?
Does the upper Oven still Work ?

[KurtiusInterupptus]

Gonna have to go fishing with a wire coat hanger...see which way to pull by looking at the other latch...

Edited by KurtiusInterupptus, 08 April 2012 - 06:22 AM.

[RegUS_PatOff]

...see which way to pull by looking at the other latch...

from the service manual 8178007 KR-30, it looks like "pull to the left"

[rican]

Anytime you press any button on the panel, it replies HOT. Can't do anything. Tried to use the upper oven but same response. Any idea on what went wrong. I will try the hanger.

[jumptrout]

You will have to use the bent coat hanger suggested by Kurtiusinterupptus.
Take a wire coat hanger,straighten it out.
Cut one end off.
Bend a 1" hook in the end.
Insert the hook in the center off the door at the latch location.
Slide the hook over the latch.
Pull the coat hanger to the LEFT.
It will take some force.
The latch will come open.

[DurhamAppliance]

Coat hanger works great....it's actually suggested in many technical stove manuals. I always get a kick out of it...." to open a locked door..access the internal magneto and connect the 2nd module from the left with the 3rd in the sequence and apply the co-efficient equal to the thermal reading upon entering hyper-oven test mode on the pcb.. then the door should open...
if that doesn't work, 1) get a coat hanger and 2) pull on the latch."

[RegUS_PatOff]

1) ... I ran a clean cycle on the lower oven
2) ... error came up on the console. I cleared it and don't remember it,
3) ... but from reading here I am pretty sure a thermostat that controls the door lock
4) ...The lower door remains locked and when I try to do anything it say HOT and won't go any farther.
5) ... Everything I read says take the back panel off and find bad part.
6) ... Which part is likely the problem?

1)
2) maybe error F3 E1 open Temperature Sensor
3) if one Thermal Fuse was bad, the Oven Control wouldn't "light-up" ... If the other Thermal Fuse was bad, it would only affect Bake & Broil
4) not caused by either Thermal Fuse
5) not for your symptoms
6) depending on the error code numbers, may be bad Oven Sensor
OR becuase of Self-clean high temperatures, may now have a bad Oven Controller.

[kdog]

Coat hanger works great....

I just knew there was some purpose for these otherwise useless wire coat hangers !!

[RegUS_PatOff]

I just knew there was some purpose for these otherwise useless wire coat hangers !!

Joan Crawford in Mommy Dearest
"NO WIRE HANGERS, EVER !"

[rican]

What part to you exactly mean by sensor.

4451665 or 4451442

[DurhamAppliance]

Joan Crawford in Mommy Dearest
"NO WIRE HANGERS, EVER !"

Okay Already! Lay off the coffee, mom! I actually use this :

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 09 April 2012 - 10:27 AM.

[RegUS_PatOff]

What part to you exactly mean by sensor.
4451665 or 4451442

... 4) not caused by either Thermal Fuse

http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=589877

 

[rican]

OK,

1, Tested the sensor and it read 1089 Ohms.
2. test the thermostat and it reads OL on the multimeter
3. Directly Connected the two leads on the thermostat to bypass the thermostat and powered the unit on and now getting an error message F5E7.
4 locked light still on and HOT still shows up when trying to turn anything on.

[RegUS_PatOff]

F5E7
Self-clean latch will not unlock

[rican]

Replace Latch assembly?

[RegUS_PatOff]

... I ran a clean cycle on the lower oven and and an error came up on the console.

You may now have a bad Oven Controller.
Some electrical tests would need to be done.

“My Rules”:
Rule #1) Don't ever use Self-Clean on any Oven.
Rule #2) If you're thinking about using Self-Clean, see rule #1.
Self-Clean uses nearly 1000F for 3 hours or more.
That can wreak havoc on Electronic Controllers and Connections.

[rican]

any references on how to disassemble unit? Especially if I must replace the latch assembly. It looks now that I have to remove the top oven to get to it.

[RegUS_PatOff]

You may now have a bad Oven Controller.
Some electrical tests would need to be done.

It may not be a bad Latch Assembly
If you can access the Oven Controller, you can test
(and possibly actuate) the Lower Oven Latch Assembly

[rican]

I can follow directions, but I am unsure how I would test that board. I can read the electrical diagram you sent and see the area where the door accuators are controlled, but I would not know how to test.