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LG Front load excess drain time WM2688HWM

LG front load drain error LG Washer Drain Error

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7 replies to this topic

#1 bluefrog

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Posted 10 April 2012 - 11:07 PM

LG Front Load Washer WM2688 has drain/filter clogged error.

Customer states the error comes on during the drain cycle, it acts like it takes forever to drain and then finally beeps with the clogged filter / drain error message.

I checked the filter and it is not clogged.
Stuck finger in the drain pump and was able to turn the impeller, not jammed.
Wet vac'ed the drain hose to see if anything was clogged.
There are no kinks in the drain line.
Ran test mode, circ pump and drain pump worked well. Drain pump seemed like it drained about 80-90% of the water though. There was still about 1/2" of water in the tub even though the pump was continuously running in test mode.
During drain pump test, water level Hz reading was within range of 25-65Hz indicating normal operation.

Is there an air chamber sensor I should check? If so where the heck is that thing?

I was not able to recreate the error message while I was there. (of course!)

I am leaning towards a bad main board but wanted to see if any of the LG experts out there had some advice before I go this route.

Thanks for your time,
Nick

Thanks,

Nick

 

www.bluefrogappliance.com

bluefrogappliance@gmail.com

 


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#2 john63

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Posted 10 April 2012 - 11:31 PM

This is most likely a failing (slow) DRAIN MOTOR.

The LG WM2688 model washer is at least 5 years old (first digit of Serial Number indicates year built).

If used frequently (family of 4 for example)---some DRAIN MOTORS after 5 years or more---begin to sound noisy and run too slow to force water to drain.

An "OE" error is eventually triggered (no drain or long-drain-duration detected)

Edited by john63, 10 April 2012 - 11:52 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#3 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 06:19 AM

For others coming along later and reading this, here's the part link to the replacement drain pump ==> http://www.repaircli...EA2001D/1266821

EDIT: Corrected part link per John's post below.

Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, 11 April 2012 - 08:49 AM.
Changed part link.


#4 john63

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 08:02 AM

The DRAIN MOTOR is different than the RECIRCULATION MOTOR.

If standing in front of the washer---the DRAIN MOTOR is on the left side of the Pump Housing.

Sometimes difficult to differentiate from the 2 different motors---when trying to order a replacement :)

Correct part is...

http://www.repaircli...EA2001D/1266821
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 08:03 AM

Domo for that correction, John! :)

#6 bluefrog

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 08:46 AM

Thanks so much for the info. Looks like I will try the pump first, it seems to make sense.

I also forgot to mention that when I turned the impeller with my finger it had som resistance to it. It seems like others that I have felt, turned more freely. Of course I cant see in there to tell if something is wrong.

Thanks again all.

Thanks,

Nick

 

www.bluefrogappliance.com

bluefrogappliance@gmail.com

 


#7 bluefrog

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Posted 28 April 2012 - 08:14 PM

Hi all, update on this repair.

Changed out the drain pump and we still had the problem. When it went to drain, you could just hear a tiny trickle, then it would time out after 10mins and give drain error. If you hit the pause button while you heard the trickle and then restarted, the drain pump would then work and drain the water out like normal.

I was leaning towards changing out the main board since the new drain pump didn't solve our problem, but I just didn't feel that was the problem. Test mode ran great, all readings were within normal range.

So I removed the air chamber to check it out. It had a little gookus in it, so I cleaned it out. Checked the hose from air chamber to pressure sensor and blew through it to ensure everything was clear.

Reassembled and ran a test run. Ran great while I was there and so far all is good and I have not heard back from the customer.

Fingers crossed.

Thanks,

Nick

 

www.bluefrogappliance.com

bluefrogappliance@gmail.com

 


#8 john63

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Posted 28 April 2012 - 09:32 PM

<<<When it went to drain, you could just hear a tiny trickle, then it would time out after 10mins and give drain error. If you hit the pause button while you heard the trickle and then restarted, the drain pump would then work and drain the water out like normal.>>>

*********************

An unusual symptom for an LG washer (with a good or new DRAIN MOTOR).

On a Samsung washer---this wouldn't be uncommon and is usually caused by a *coin* stuck/caught near the DRAIN PUMP ASSY
outlet hose (swiveling open & shut).

If your customer calls back with the same symptom---check for a *button* in the DRAIN HOSE located at the top of the Drain Pump Housing.
Also inspect the plastic white-colored gooseneck located at the left rear of the washer (near the top corner).
This "gooseneck" is part of the DRAIN HOSE ASSY and has a small black anti-siphon hose that "runs" from it to the top of the tub.
I had one service call for a slow drain complaint (but not an intermittent drain) and there was debris/lint partially restricting the drain flow at the gooseneck.

Verify that there's no debris in the under-the-tub DRAIN HOSE which "runs" from the bottom of the tub to the Pump Housing (usually a bra wire/lint/small article of clothing).

There's also the possibility that---somewhere along the length of the DRAIN HOSE (downstream of the Drain Pump Assy) an unusual blockage has occurred. A small enough piece of debris that is causing lint and/or other small objects to snag and restrict draining in an intermittent fashion.
In this case---it becomes necessary to remove the entire DRAIN HOSE---to either blast compressed air into to dislodge the blockage. Or replace it.

The MAIN BOARD is not the source of this problem---nor would the AIR PRESSURE CHAMBER and the hose that "runs" from it to the WATER LEVEL SENSOR.

Good luck

Edited by john63, 29 April 2012 - 02:03 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"




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