Frigidaire LTF2140ES0 Won't Drain, Pump Out
Posted 23 April 2012 - 01:33 PM
Posted 23 April 2012 - 01:50 PM
Before, according to your second post, the pump was apparently running but not draining...
So, you needed the pump.
Now, with the new pump in, a follow-on problem is revealed. It's not common; yes it sucks, but it does happen.
At this point, now that we have the drain out working properly, and the no-high-speed-spin problem revealed, the problem will either be the door lock or the motor control board. You have been given good diagnostic info for the door latch.
I absolutely agree that we're one step closer. Before, when I opened the door on a load of towels, I could see a little water in the tub. Now, at least we're past that point (thank you! ). I just want to make sure I order to right part the first time for this next problem, if that is possible. I'm on a teacher's budget, so paying shipping back and forth, etc really starts to add up quickly and Mamma-San starts to give me the evil hex-eye and quite possibly, spit in my bowl of rice or, at very least, lick my chopsticks.
Here are the results of my door latch test, per SANTA's suggestion :
Door Switch - Black to Red/Blk - 121.4v
Door Lock - Grey to Red/Blk - 124.2v
Door Lock Aux Switch - Orange to Red/Blk - 121.6v
Wax Motor - Pink to Red/Blk - 121.5v
The thing is that I don't know how the motor control board system works, so I'm unsure if there is something else going on that I should look into or not. If the 120v to all four parts of the latch assembly at the start of the rinse/spin cycle is a definitive test, then I'll order a new latch assembly. If further troubleshooting is needed, I'll happily give it a go. Thanks!
Posted 23 April 2012 - 03:57 PM
any Error Codes (flashing lights) while in the Spin Cycle ?
one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”
every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962
RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw
Posted 23 April 2012 - 08:39 PM
. Calling up error codes would be useful. But as you'll see in a post of mine below, that can get you the wrong information anyway.
. Here is a post where it told me it was the control board, but it was the door switch:
. Here is the inside $70 switch part no. 131763202:
but you may not NEED that, though it is broken.
. Here is the one I fixed in the link above for $12 bucks:
[see image in next post]
That little white thing that the screwdriver points to is the wax motor which you can replace if everything else works OK in the switch. That is what moves it over to lock.
See here is the piece that tells it "I'm locked, go ahead and spin, because nobody can get his/her arm in here now."
[see image in next post]
The white wax motor pushes the black thingy, where the screwdriver is pointing, into the lock mechanism, it may push it far enough to lock it, but when it does, it also needs to push the two copper contacts together just to the left of the screwdriver so the compuker knows its locked. It won't, by the way, do any of this, unless it knows the door is closed, which is another set of contacts in there, though I don't know which ones, as I don't have one of these in front of me right now. Anyway, it is so beautifully and simply mechanical in there, you can figure that out pretty easily.
. So should you see everything in there is happy, which I'm sure it is, you need this:
Part # 12002535 $12.
The housing on the door lock opens VERY easily. It's easy to put this in, and easy to test the door lock itself.
. One problem left: as for Mamma-San, tell her you are getting a real education, through real experience! You are sharpening your analytical and problem-solving skills. You are increasing your virility by doing man-stuff. You'll feel very satisfied by accomplishing this, and she will too from your increased virility. Shipping costs?! I don't know where you live, but a repairman might charge you $90, just to walk through the door, and tell you "Looks like you need a new one" which often really means, "I can't figure it out." If does fix it, more bucks for the labor time, plus he'll probably double the price of the entire switch assembly that you don't need. So $140 for the switch, $150 for labor. Oh and did you need the pump? Another $150 or more? Well over $400, anyway, and you wouldn't get to have all this fun.
Edited by Tim M, 29 April 2012 - 07:04 PM.
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