10 replies to this topic

[WDC]

Maytag Neptune MAH3000AWW Reoccurring PCB (control board ) trace burning.

I am having a reoccurring PCB problem, same symptoms six mouths apart and need help or advice from others having the same problem.

Neptune
Model: MAH3000AWW
Serial # 18110467SW
Original Control Board 6 2707690 (new Board-22002988)

Symptoms:
1- The machine starts overfilling and water running out the front door
2- it appears water is continually running and will not turned off during the cycles (stops when unplugging the power
3- we have noticed the machine running hot or warm water when in the cold setting
4- Electrical burning smell is noticed that turns out to be an overheated trace on the back of the PCB

History: six months ago the washer stopped working PCB showing signs of overheating/shorting on the back side of the PCB opposite of P4 on front side. Not knowing exactly what caused the problem, I replace the following:

PCB - new
Timer dial- used
Washer Push Button Switches (all of them) used
Door latch wax-motor-new
drum bearing and seal was changed out 1 1/2 years ago (easy repair for such a common problem)

After these changes the machine worked fine for 6 months but has now have just experienced the same short and burns on the back of the PCB. I have removed the motor controller inspecting it closely and there are no burn or heat marks anywhere, it looks fine.

I have performed the following test and each one has tested fine as described in the service manual troubleshooting guide:

Drive System Diagnostics Test
Drive Systems Phase Loss Test
drive system Phase Continuity Test

I am now at a loss any help or recommendations would be greatly appreciated,

Thanks in advance,

Will- wdc@cherringtongroup.com

Attached Files

•  sm2-MAH3000AWW-3.jpg   121.76K   7 downloads

[WDC]

Maytag Neptune MAH3000AWW Reoccurring PCB (control board ) trace burning.

I am having a reoccurring PCB problem, same symptoms eight months apart and need help or advice from others having the same problem.
Neptune
Model: MAH3000AWW
Serial # 18110467SW
Original Control Board 6 2707690 (new board 2202988)

Symptoms:

1- The machine starts overfilling and water running out the front door
2- it appears water is continually running and will not turned off during the cycles (stops when unplugging the power
3- we have noticed the machine running hot or warm water when in the cold setting
4- Electrical burning smell is noticed that turns out to be an overheated trace on the back of the PCB

History: six months ago the washer stopped working PCB showing signs of overheating/shorting on the back side of the PCB opposite of P4 on front side. Not knowing exactly what caused the problem, I replace the following:

PCB - new
Timer dial- used
Washer Push Button Switches (all of them) used
Door latch wax-motor-new
Drum bearing and seal was changed out 1 1/2 years ago (easy repair for such a common problem)

After these changes the machine worked fine for eight months but has now experience the same short and burns on the back of the PCB. I have removed the motor controller inspecting it closely and there are no burn or heat marks anywhere, it looks fine.

I have performed the following test and each one has tested fine as described in the service manual troubleshooting guide:

Drive System Diagnostics Test
Drive Systems Phase Loss Test
drive system Phase Continuity Test

I am now at a loss any help or recommendations would be greatly appreciated,
Thanks in advance,

Will- wdc@cherringtongroup.com

Attached Files

•  sm2-MAH3000AWW-3.jpg   121.76K   12 downloads

[WDC]

I should add that both control boards overheated and burn the traces in the same location. There does not appear to be any other damage to the board other then the overheated trace as photographed. If possible I would like to try to jump the trace and save the board.

With that said it appears that whatever the problem is, it is burning the board in the same place.

[WDC]

I should also add that whereas I suspected the motor controller, all of the diagnostics as referenced above check out fine, so I do not believe this is the problem. Also after removing the motor controller and inspecting a closely front and back there are no heat marks or signs of damage. One could also be suspect of the water valves since the unit runs water nonstop and sometimes the temperature is not in accordance with the selector, but it does not run water if the power is off or in delayed start, so it is likely operating in accordance to the signal it is getting.

This is however, an interesting clue, regardless of the position of the water temperature selector buttons warm water runs so both solenoids are opening, even after switching out the selector switch.

[nickfixit]

I think you're just trapped in a repair loop caused by a crappy machine with crappy parts. It's hard to belive the water valve could be causing this,but it might be worth replacing if you want to keep this in service. I would be inclined to look at replacing the whole machine.

Nick

[RussTech]

I second the Honorable Academy Fellow Nickfixit on this one. Whats the warranty on the board? Perhaps you can get it replaced for free minus shipping? You can jump out the burnt traces and attempt your own repair. Many others have on assorted burnt traces.

[WDC]

Clarification regarding burnt trace and P4



After careful review the two burnt tracers (looking out the photo) starting from down the top is tracer number 2 and 3. When I referenced P4 it was a broad description of the location which I shouldn't have done.

Tracer number two (second from the top) you can see just to the right ,is a solder point which on the other side of the board is labeled JP13 a jumper wire right alongside P4.

When I follow track number three to the left, it terminates at the first pin terminal on P7.

Regarding your other points I had checked fairly closely each of the connector points and each seems to be typed in a good connection with no heat or burn marks. I have not tracked down the wire loom checking for frayed spots along the wire but I will based on your recommendation.

If any of this sheds light on your analysis your comments would be greatly appreciated

[WDC]

My gut feeling is that you are probably right about placing the machine unfortunately in these economic times if I can replace a $100 component versus a several hundred dollar machine it would sure help.

Thanks for your comments

[WDC]

After careful review the two burnt tracers (looking out the photo) starting from down the top is tracer number 2 and 3. When I referenced P4 it was a broad description of the location which I shouldn't have done.

Tracer number two (second from the top) you can see just to the right is a solder point which on the other side of the board is actually labeled JP13 which is a jumper wire right alongside P4. When I follow track number three to the left, it terminates at the first pin terminal on P7.

Regarding your other points I had checked fairly closely each of the connector points and each seems to be typed in a good connection with no heat or burn marks. I have not tracked down the wire loom checking for frayed spots along the wire but I will based on your recommendation.

If any of this sheds light on your analysis your comments would be greatly appreciated

[RegUS_PatOff]

that looks like mechanical damage
(something touching the Board, causing the short)

no need to double-post

[nickfixit]

I think Reg is right, it does look like it's damaged instead of burned.