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ryangt

GE Profile PFS22SISBSS not cooling .

29 posts in this topic

Im an active duty military and i have a fridge full of spoiled food, please help me.

My GE Profile refidgerator, model number PFS22SISBSS french door fridge with pull out bottom freezer will not cool at all.

I have been having problems with it for a while, not keeping temps low, it would be 40 degrees or -4 degrees at completely random times but now it is completely inoperable.

The interior lights come on when the doors are open and shut off when closed

The temperature control panel works and is currently displaying 68 degrees for both the freezer and fridge.

On the back of the fridge, the small fan is not working at all.

I can hear a humming coming from the back side of the fridge, and can feel vibration from a motor running if i place my hand on the back of the fridge.

The relay on the left side will attempt to function, then will click and shut off for a while.

I looked at the motherboard and it looks fine, so there is nothing i can see right away to tip me off as to the issue.

please help me experts!

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Condenser Fan behind Fridge, and also Evaporator Fan inside Freezer, should run whenever Compressor is running.

May need to see the frost pattern of the Evaporator Coils inside Freezer

http://fixitnow.com/...gerator-repair/

depending on the first (2) characters of your serial number

there may be a service bulletin on your MotherBoard

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Condenser Fan behind Fridge, and also Evaporator Fan inside Freezer, should run whenever Compressor is running.

May need to see the frost pattern of the Evaporator Coils inside Freezer

http://fixitnow.com/...gerator-repair/

depending on the first (2) characters of your serial number

there may be a service bulletin on your MotherBoard

im not sure about that frost pattern since the entire fridge is warm and not producing any cool air at all.. The condensor fan makes no attempt to run at all. Is there any way to rule out some of the common bad parts? Ive heard of the motherboard issue, but dont know a way to diagnose it for sure.. I have a multimeter and some knowhow, all i need is to be pointed the right direction.

thanks again

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In my experience, if the condenser fan is not running (thus the compressor over heats-so it doesn't run long enough to cool to temp and maintain a constant temp) it is usually alway the main computer board. It used to be a wr55x10552 part number I think, but I would double check as I know they have updated the parts numbers and/or changed them for French doors. In some cases the condenser fan will run (slowly and laboriously) and it is still the board.

There have also been issues (may have been a recall??) on the thermistors in the fridge and freezer. Namely the thermistor that sits on the evaporator, see Sensei Grand Master Funks attachment.

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how can i tell if the actual compressor is running? All i can hear moving is the fan motor inside the fridge, the compressor is really hot if i touch it and the compressor fan is still inop. I still hear the relay clicking once every few min or so.

my serial number is DL052010, hopefully thats covered but i assume its a long shot since i never registered the fridge with GE.

i can see the covers for the thermistors, but am unsure how to actually get a look at them, i pulled on the cover a bit but was feeling like i might break the stupid things.

Im pricing out a new motherboard now, although i see alot of conflicting part numbers from many different sites all claiming its for my model fridge. I have a familly member who owns an appliance shop so i can get wholesale pricing if i can get a good part number.

thanks for all the help so far, im unfamiliar with appliances and while it sucks my fridge isnt working, im loving learning something new.

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That is the compressor overload clicking so no, the compressor is not running, it is stalling, may not be getting full voltage, may be bad relay on compressor, or a bad compressor. Unplug fridge and let comp cool down then remove relay and overload from comp. and shake it, if you can hear it rattle you have a bad relay.

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yes, it sounds like the Start Relay on your Compressor is bad.

although, the Compressor (Condenser) Fan should be running.

If not, it may be a bad Condenser Fan and / or a bad MotherBoard,

and possibly, now, a bad over-heated Compressor.

Yes, your serial number is included with the service bulletin for MotherBoard and Condenser Fan (if bad) replacement

GE_Refrig_Board.pdf

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ok i pulled the relay, its fine, no noise at all. Also curious, but i pulled out the motherboard for the sake of taking a look and noticed a small burn mark on top of a small black box soldered on to the board, im wondering if thats the culprit or if anyone has actually seen some visible damage before on a bad board.

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Yep burned solder joint i have re soldered them in a pinch.

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yes, it sounds like the Start Relay on your Compressor is bad.

although, the Compressor (Condenser) Fan should be running.

If not, it may be a bad Condenser Fan and / or a bad MotherBoard,

and possibly, now, a bad over-heated Compressor.

Yes, your serial number is included with the service bulletin for MotherBoard and Condenser Fan (if bad) replacement

GE_Refrig_Board.pdf

ok so mines on the list, but does that mean i can get it repaired for cheaper or anything? To actually get that work done is it something i need to take up with GE and use the letter as my backup? I really appreciate that letter, i love documentation.

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parts should be free,

pay for labor, or your own

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Even thought the start relay/overload pak doesn't rattle it could still be bad, it is one of the new TSD electronic starters, not a PTC starter.

Good chance it has died from being stressed and overheated from the non working condenser fan.

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Even thought the start relay/overload pak doesn't rattle it could still be bad, it is one of the new TSD electronic starters, not a PTC starter.

Good chance it has died from being stressed and overheated from the non working condenser fan.

any way to test it and be certain?

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the only way to be certain is to replace the Starter.

The Compressor can be checked, somewhat, by OHMing between the Pins.

Each pair should read somewhere between 3 OHMs and 12 OHMs.

(post results)

and infinite between each and the case.

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the only way to be certain is to replace the Starter.

The Compressor can be checked, somewhat, by OHMing between the Pins.

Each pair should read somewhere between 3 OHMs and 12 OHMs.

(post results)

and infinite between each and the case.

the three pins coming off the side of the compressor correct? Ill take those measurements when i get home from work tonight.

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also the starter, Is that just another name for the relay on the side of the compressor?

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yes, to both questions

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Took my ohm measurements and everything checked out somewhere around 4-10 ohms so it seems the compressor is fine which is a releif.

I wrote GE this morning about the replacement parts but have not received a response yet.

Is there any way to rule out the starter and overload?

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... everything checked out somewhere around 4-10 ohms so it seems the compressor is fine which is a releif.

but that's not a definitive test

... Is there any way to rule out the starter and overload?

the only way to be certain is to replace the Starter.

The Compressor can be checked, somewhat, by OHMing between the Pins.

Each pair should read somewhere between 3 OHMs and 12 OHMs.

(post results)

post results

two readings should add up to the third

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Oh ok i understand what you mean now.

First pair was between 5-7 ohm

Second was between 8-10 ohm

And third was pretty spot on at 13.

So whats that telling us?

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The comp is most likely good.

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Update: received my muthaboard from GE free of charge as well as an insurance check for 100$ to cover the lost food.

I installed the board and let the fridge sit powered on overnight and it still isnt cooling. The small fan near the compressor is working now though, where as it didnt move at all before. Compressor relay is still clicking as before.

Ideas? Im at a loss.

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