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GE PFS22SISBSS Refrig / beer box 74F - Freezer 16F

GE PFS22SISBSS refrigerator

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16 replies to this topic

#1 snapperon

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 01:11 PM

]I have scanned hither and yon, but cannot find in enlightenment..........

As the title states, the upstairs is warm and the bottom freezer is as expected. I went through the diagnostic flowchart, I get to the block that asks if there is fuzzy ice on the evaporator coils. I'm assuming yes, but have attached a picture that shows exactly what I am seeing. When I click on the block marked "Troubleshoot defrost system failure", it doesn't lead me to anything very specific. It appears there is a thermodisc (fuse-M),

WR50X10047,

mounted to the coil, a thermostat, bi-metal,

WR50X10044, and a temperature sensor,WR55X10025, in the freezer compartment. What is my next step to troubleshoot. Do I need to get all the ice out and then start the troubleshooting? What is my next step. Clearly, something here is not working correctly.

I got this refrigerator from a friend. The story goes that a repairman changed out the muthaboard, changed a second time a very short time later, then my friend bought his own muthaboard as it was now out of warranty. Within 30 days of the 2nd board, it failed again, but my friend who is financially sound just hauled off and bought another, with the intent of using it as a garage box. He never got to install the new board before the wifey said she didn't want it to clutter up the garage. When I got it, it was plugged in, freezer working and the frig hot. Moved to my house, changed board before I ever plugged it in with a brand new, sealed from GE board. The picture shows the results of my efforts. Ideas?

Condenser fan and evaporator fan work. Should the evap fan be on all the time, even with the freezer door open? If it's running all the time, shouldn't I feel air flow in the beer box? Or, does a faulty temp sensor or something else prevent the dampner from opening?

Ronny

[attachment=6543:freezer ice.jpg

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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 06:10 PM

looks like too much frost on the Evaporator
(would need to see the entire Evaporator)
Defrost problem
May be a bad Defrost Heater
Defrost (bi-metel) Thermostat (switch)
Bad MotherBoard
bad Thermistors
.

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#3 snapperon

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 10:41 PM

What more of the evaporator is there to see? That ice is packed as full as it can get between the back of the freezer and the cover that is the inside that most people see, and that cover was covered with a layer of ice as well. I figured that it was a defrost problem based on the steps in the flowchart from fixitnow.com. How do I troubleshoot from here, or do I just shotgun parts? I didn't see anything called a defrost heater or thermistors. I just put in a brand new, sealed motherboard 5 days ago, and the symptoms were as before. Any thoughts on what my next step should be? Is there any other information that I need to provide?

#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 11:03 PM

Have you checked the continuity of the bimetal?

Have you checked the continuity of the defrost heater?

Have you manually initiated the defrost cycle to see if the heater fires up?

#5 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 11:08 PM

I couldn't tell weather there was any portion of the Evaporator not shown
(if any portion was NOT frosted)
The Defrost Heater # 826 and Defrost Terminator # 621 would need to be tested.
Also the Thermistor # 620


http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1092766

 

Heating-Element-WR50X10042-01010822.jpg

http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1092770

 

Defrost-Thermostat-WR50X10047--01010830.

http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=914093

 

Thermistor-WR55X10025-00855831.jpg


G7090618-00002.png


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#6 snapperon

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 11:24 PM

Being only a lowly Grasshoppah, I have a few questions. Not exactly sure where the bimetal is. Is that behind/under the lights? Do I need to disconnect to check continuity? Just continuity, not read the resistance? Is the thermodisc (on the evap) the heater? If so, there is an orange and pink wire. Only the pink goes to the connector, along with a black. The black does come from a bundle on the left of the evap that the orange is connected to to. Do I pull the connector loose to check even with the other wires? Also, am I just checking continuity, or reading ohms? How do I manually initiate the defrost cycle, and how will I know if the heater "fires up" ? What part are you calling the heater?

#7 snapperon

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 11:30 PM

Slow on the typing. Just saw what RegUs typed. I will find those. Do I need to cut the wires loose to test? The heater looks like it is buttspliced to the orange wire from the thermodisc and then the heatshrinked. Do I need to strip all this out? Also, I don't see where the thermistor is terminated. The wires just disappear into the back? I'm sure there is a connector somewhere. Any idea?

#8 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 11:58 PM

Easiest thing to do would be to manually fire up the defrost circuit and see if the heater works. If it does, then may have a bad thermstor or muthaboard. If not, then the heater or bimetal is bad. See this page for details on this kata ==> http://fixitnow.com/...e-refrigerator/

#9 snapperon

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Posted 02 May 2012 - 10:27 PM

Alright, finally got around to looking at this beer box again. Here is what I found........ by manually firing up the defrost circuit (jumper method), the heater gets immediately hot. I mean, burn your finger hot! Wish I had one of them fancy IR thermometers! So, according to above, you say I will have a bad thermistor or muthaboard. Since the muthaboard is brand new, and same problem before I changed it out, would you feel fairly certain that it's the thermistor (what number in the drawing above?), or did you mean thermodisc, which is the #621 in the drawing above? What do either of these do? I've got to get this monkey out of my entry way! Hep me, sensai !

#10 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 02 May 2012 - 10:39 PM

If the "thermodisc" was bad, you wouldn't have burned your pinky.

That only leaves the thermistor. The evap thermistor is most problematic. But might as well replace all of them at the same time.

Thermistor part link ==> http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=914093

#11 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 02 May 2012 - 10:45 PM

... thermistor (what number in the drawing above?)

# 241
(2) locations
http://fixitnow.com/...ed-thermistors/
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#12 snapperon

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Posted 02 May 2012 - 10:50 PM

So where would I look for this? See attached picture. Is the thermistor your talking about the "white bullet" that is zip-tied to the evap core tubing that exits the back of the frig? If so, where do the wires disappear to? I assume they go into the muthaboard compartment, but where do they connect? How do I get them out and back through? Do I uncoil/unwrap the foam tape that wraps around all the wires that exit?

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#13 snapperon

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Posted 02 May 2012 - 10:58 PM

Do I see 3 total on the drawing? 2 in the freezer (one attached to the evap and the other behind a small plastic dome/grill housing) and one in the top compartment? I pulled the cover off the one in the beer box, and I don't have any idea where the wires on that one go, or how to pull them out, or send them back to where they belong. Do you typically cut the wires and splice back in the new ones, or do you know some magic to get them disconnected and reconnected?

#14 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 02 May 2012 - 11:15 PM

yes, there may be (3) ..
would need to cut & splice the wires..
did you notice the wires on the replacement Thermistor in the parts picture (link) above ?
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#15 snapperon

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Posted 02 May 2012 - 11:19 PM

I did notice the wires were stripped, so assumed, but the length tripped me up. The one in the beer box doesn't have a lot of room to play. Do you butt splice, or solder and heat shrink? Is it safe to just butt splice, or will that corrode with all the moisture in the fridge and freezer? I don't mind soldering, just seeing what the pros do!

#16 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 04 May 2012 - 12:58 PM

Do you butt splice, or solder and heat shrink? Is it safe to just butt splice, or will that corrode with all the moisture in the fridge and freezer? I don't mind soldering, just seeing what the pros do!


See this page for an illustrated and illustrious display of how to do this correctly ==> http://appliantology...nnotated-guide/

#17 snapperon

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 12:29 AM

Well, doggone if I didn't get that part right without having to be told. I replaced all three on Thursday the exact way described in the post you made on Friday! I guess great minds think alike! I let it cycle all day on Thursday and pulled the evap cover off the inside this morning and had the perfect frost covering (no ice blocks forming). It appears your sage and enlightened advice has produced the desired results. Thanks to the Samurai and RegUS for all the great troubleshooting help and the great links to places on the website that I failed to regard. Just fired off a donation to "the fund". You really provide an excellent service to those of us who have just enough skills to be dangerous left unattended, but capable of great things with proper guidance. Thanks again for all your help and assistance in fixing this vexing problem.

Ronny




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