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Maytag LWC202 dry cycle problem

dishwasher

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9 replies to this topic

#1 RichSPK

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Posted 01 May 2012 - 10:49 AM

I recently picked up a Maytag LWC202 portable dishwasher, a relic from the 80s. The wash and rinse cycles seem to work well. It pumps out the water at the end of the cycles and the dishes end up clean. However, at the beginning of the dry cycle, it hums for about 2 seconds and then does nothing else; the timer ticks quietly until the end of the cycle, and there may be a fan blowing humid are out the front of the door, but when it's done there's an inch or two of standing water in the bottom of the machine. Also, it won't run again unless I unplug it for a couple minutes to let it rest. That suggests to me that it's tripping a circuit breaker inside the washer.

I have no manual or documentation for this dishwasher. Where should I start?

--
Thanks!
Rich

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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 01 May 2012 - 12:34 PM

... It pumps out the water at the end of the cycles
... but when it's done there's an inch or two of standing water in the bottom of the machine.
... it won't run again unless I unplug it for a couple minutes to let it rest.

then it's not Pumping out all of the Water ...
check your Drains ..
may be time for a new Dishwasher
.

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#3 RichSPK

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Posted 01 May 2012 - 10:00 PM

RegUS_PatOff, I'm pretty sure it pumps out all the water during the wash & rinse cycles, just not during the dry cycle, but my point was that the pump does push a strong stream of water out of the washer, so I think the pump itself is okay. It also suggests the drains are flowing, too, but how do I check?


This is the new dishwasher (for me)!

#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 01 May 2012 - 11:05 PM

has this D/W worked OK for you up till now at this location ?
It could be Drain water returning. ..
OR a leaky Fill Valve...
Is the Water dirty / soapy ?
.

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#5 RichSPK

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Posted 02 May 2012 - 07:18 AM

It's an old dishwasher, but it's new to me. It came with this problem.

The standing water is clear, not dirty or soapy.

I don't think the problem is a valve because the dishwasher won't start again until I've unplugged it for a couple minutes. It seems like something is tripping a circuit breaker in the dishwasher near the start of the dry cycle.

#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 02 May 2012 - 09:06 AM

It's an old dishwasher


yes, it is

... may be time for a new Dishwasher


may be an over-heating Circulation Motor
(no longer available)
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

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#7 RichSPK

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Posted 02 May 2012 - 09:27 AM

Thanks! That gives me something to google. I may be able to adapt another motor, if that's the case.

Aside from the cost of replacing this dishwasher, I'd also have to haul it down 3 flights of stairs, dispose of it, and haul the new one up 3 flights, so it's not a real attractive option.

#8 RichSPK

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 11:27 AM

Actually, I guess it's doing it's thing (humming for about 2 seconds and then shutting down, except for the timer, which keeps ticking away) near the beginning of the rinse cycle, not in the dry cycle. If I then unlatch the door and let it rest/cool for half an hour, it will then run again.

I pulled the kick panel, hoping to see a schematic, or something obviously broken, but I didn't find that. I saw only one motor, which I guess drives everything. It's label says it's thermally protected, so I'm guessing that's what's humming and then shutting down until it has a cooldown period.

I took some pictures in case those help anyone tell me where to look next. Hopefully, this link will work for you: https://plus.google....086091791756801

#9 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 06:54 AM

Sounds like you have a pump bearing that is seizing up after it has ran for a while.

Remove the round belt from the motor then try to turn the pump pulley by hand, most likely you are going to find it hard to turn.

See if the motor will run OK with the belt off, (off course with the belt off the water won't circulate and it won't pump out either but you will then know if the motor will run without a load on it).

Do you of a clamp on amp meter? If you do, watch what the readings are when you first start it up and see if the amp reading starts to go higher the longer it runs and then spikes up real high just before it stops running, (most likely as you have already found from tripping the internal overload protector in the motor).
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#10 RichSPK

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 09:32 AM

Great idea, Willie! I don't have a clamp-on amp meter, but I can probably borrow one, and I'll try the other stuff in the meantime.





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