6 replies to this topic

[ablock]

Greetings, gurus & apprentices.

We have a F&P DD603SS that is leaving behind about an inch of water in the tub after each cycle. This happens on both the top and bottom drawers. I looked through the past forum posts about the DDs (why doesn't anyone describe their issue in the topic title?!?), and found that the problem is likely caused by a clogged drain line.

I removed the drain line from the upper drawer. The non-return valve fell out (more on this in a moment) and about two cups of water soaked my shirt. I wasn't sure how to test if the drain line was clogged. First I blew through it, which didn't work -- no air flow. Then I filled it with water from the faucet. It spilled over the top and then very slowly drained down through the hose. I'm assuming this confirms my diagnosis of a clogged hose.

I looked on Sears PartsDirect and found that the manual's specified part numbers (525966 for upper hose and 525967 for lower) have both been superseded by 527137. That's fine but each hose costs $40; is there an acceptable way to clean out a clogged hose rather than replacing it?

Now, about that non-return valve. When it fell out I didn't see where it came from, or which direction it was installed in the hose fitting. The manual has no parts diagram (?) and the Sears PD diagrams show what I think is the NRV but the part number has no corresponding product page and anyway the drawing is too small to see how the NRV is installed. Any guidance here would be appreciated as well.

Thanks!

/adam

PS I do realize I misspelled "Fisher" in the post topic but I am not able to change it. Sorry, F&P marketing department!

Edited by ablock, 10 May 2012 - 05:17 PM.

[kdog]

Service Manual can't hurt: http://appliantology...service-manual/

The non return valve will allow flow out of the pump, but not in so the rubber flap must hinge outward

[DanInKansas]

On your F&P -- check your drain hose. If you have a Y-shaped drain hose -- one end going to the garbage disposal and two ends coming out of that to each drawer -- you MUST have that aligned straight up and down -- the top hose at 12 o'clock and the bottom hose at 6. If you don't, water from one drawer will flow back into the other.

[ablock]

@DanInKansas: Thanks, I'll check on that. But doesn't the fact that I can't blow through the hose suggest that it's pretty well blocked (whether or not the Y alignment is good)?

@kdog: I do have the SM, thanks. As I mentioned, it has no exploded parts diagram and doesn't mention the NRV at all...

/adam

[DanInKansas]

Very possibly some blockage, but checked for a pinched hose. if you have the upper drawer's hose disconnected, and if you're lying on the floor, you could pinch that water line without knowing it.

Flap should swing towards the back of the cabinet. I did the same thing with a DD603 trying to find a leak and it goes back on right under the drawer.

[RegUS_PatOff]

525414P Now Use 528625P

from another blog:
I'll add the outcome here just in case someone comes across this page with a search one day.

Replacing the flapper valve (FP part 525414P $5.49 at Sears Parts) did fix the problem. Water now drains from both drawers without flowing into the other drawer.

In comparing the "worn" and new valves, the only difference I could see was that the worn one was more flexible. Presumably that's a result of 4 years of passing hot water; it's interesting that both valves failed within a few months of each other.

I paid $200 on a service call to have the first replaced; in hindsight, he probably should have replaced both valves.

The procedure to replace the valve is simple.

525414P Now Use 528625P
Replacement flapper valve kit for DD/DS601/602/603 Dish Drawers.
Includes two flaps.


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[J5]

each drawer has a seperate drain hose

if both are not draining then check your drainage connections at the sink