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Frigidaire front load washer: water will still not enter machine. New part # was different. Problem?


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12 replies to this topic

#1 darlenerobert

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Posted 13 May 2012 - 04:24 PM

Well, I ordered the replacement pressure switch and ordered the one the manufacturer recommends. This didn't fix it. My husband tested the old pressure switch and it seems fine. He tested the resistance across the two prongs, 1 & 2, and there was no resistance initially. He blew into it, heard the switch click, and resistance went to infinity. Does that mean that the switch is good? If so, should I try to replace the control board. I really don't want the hassle of buyng a new machine because my set stacks, and my space is limited. I know the board is only $142., and that will likely be a good bit less than a pro.

I'm now debating whether I should call in the pros, buy another machine, or order the control board which was the step recommended after the pressure switch. I'm seeking your wisdom. I would love a working machine for Mother's Day---or shortly there after. Thank you again for your help.

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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 13 May 2012 - 05:34 PM

model number ?
.

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#3 darlenerobert

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Posted 13 May 2012 - 06:22 PM

Dear Samurai, I wanted to let you know that the washer is fixed. My husband thought that before we ordered a new control panel we should unplug and replug all the connectors on it. Miraculously, that fixed the problem. I can only guess that the vibration from the dryer (stacking unit) jiggled something loose. I'm also assuming that is what cracked the panel all to heck. The plastic around the dispenser door has pretty much fallen to pieces. I figure I'll need to replace that soon, but right now we want to make sure that the machine stays fixed. Thank you so much for your help.

#4 darlenerobert

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Posted 13 May 2012 - 06:36 PM

Scratch what I just posted. The machine started out the cycle fine. However, it stopped in the middle with a tub full of water and sodden clothes. I think I'll order that control panel now. Thanks for your help.

#5 darlenerobert

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Posted 13 May 2012 - 06:42 PM

PS: my model # is FWFB9100ES0. The part you sent was the one the manufacturer recommended. But, it is pretty clear that the pressure switch is fine, and that the control panel is not so fine. One other thing, however. The plastic panel on the front top is completely cracked around the dispenser drawer. I mean the plastic is in pieces and some have fallen off. It is possible that this could be part of my problem? The dispenser compartment and drawer itself are fine, its just the plastic panel around it that is busted. I think its probably from the weight and vibration from the dryer that sits on top of it. If I need to, I can replace that at the same time, if it is a possible contributing factor or if it might cause more problems. Thanks again for your help.

#6 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 14 May 2012 - 05:53 AM

The broken up control console frame could be causing your problem. There is a reed switch that lets the CCU know that the detergent drawer is closed. I'm not completely sure if the detergent drawer being open or if the reed switch has broken loose from it's mounting position in the control console, that it will completely shut down the operations like fill and wash or only the spin cycle.

I'm pretty sure that the fill would be stopped with drawer open so that water won't splash everywhere.
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#7 darlenerobert

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Posted 14 May 2012 - 09:15 AM

I read that the reed switch is not critical, and that disconnecting it would just eliminate the automatic stop if the drawer is opened. Maybe I'll disconnect it and see what happens. Thanks.

#8 SANTA

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Posted 14 May 2012 - 04:08 PM

Hey Darlene, could you explain your problem in more detail. What happens when you push start? Does the drain pump work? Is there a tech sheet inside the washer taped to the side down below that you can use to test components?

#9 darlenerobert

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Posted 14 May 2012 - 04:41 PM

Actually, I am 99.9% sure I figured out the problem. Had I gone with my instincts in the first place instead of trusting the error codes and diagnostics, I'd already have a working washer. About a month ago, the switch on our well pump went out, and was not clicking on when the pressure dropped below 30psi. That meant that if the washer, dish washer, or anything else was running, the water would run out until we manually threw the switch again. It was during this failure that the washer simply stopped working. It wouldn't start, no water flowed--nothing. The error code was E11, and test 1 indicated that the inlet valve was good b/c when the power was disconnected the water stopped. That meant that it was either the pressure switch or the control board. Ordered the pressure switch, and not only was it different---probably not a problem, as the third prong probably is needed for the "better" machines. It didn't fix it. All of the indicators were pointing to the control board. So, I ordered one. But, I did some more common sense diagnostics and realized that the cold water flow was very slow compared to the warm or hot which is what E11 means. (Takes too long to fill) I tried to cancel the control board, but the Repair Clinic is so efficient it was already on the truck 2 hours after it was ordered.

On a hunch, I disconnected the water inlet valve and checked the inline filters. From the outside of the machine they looked fine. However, when I got the unit out and removed the plastic filters, the cold side was essentially full of silty sludge. I think what happened was when the pump kicked back on, there was silt in the line, and I usually use cold water only, so, that inlet got plugged. By the time I used the hot, the silt had cleared, so it wasn't affected. I guess the reason the diagnostic for the valve asssembly didn't work was because it checks the solenoid, not the flow. So, now I'm waiting on the valve unit. I have got to investigate a better filter system than what i have. I have screen filters on both ends of the inlet hoses, and I clean them often. I guess that the silt was so fine it went through anyway. We'll see if this does it. I hope so, b/c its a stacking unit and if I replace the washer, I'll likely have to replace the dryer too b/c I will NEVER buy another Frigidaire front-loader.

PS: This is the second time the test codes and diagnostics steered me wrong. Last time, the wax motor in my door latch failed, but the error code indicated that the speed control board was bad. This forum, and a couple of others helped confirm my gut instinct, and by ignoring the codes and the official tests, my machine was fixed cheaply and quickly. I wonder if others have this problem with these washers' official tests. All I know is thes washers are super poorly designed and I'll not have another one like this one. Thanks for your interest.

#10 SANTA

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Posted 14 May 2012 - 10:09 PM

Expensive lesson but at least you figured it out. Your not the only one thats been fooled by a plugged cold water screen. Usually you can clean the screen and be back in action.

#11 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 14 May 2012 - 11:12 PM

.. Usually you can clean the screen

sometimes, you can remove the Cold Water Valve Screen, reconnect the Hose to the Washer,
but disconnect the Hose from the House Cold Water Supply, and rest it into the Sink.
Then, run a warm Wash, the hot water will enter the Washer, and also out of the Cold Water Valve,
flushing the Cold Water Valve.
Repeat with other Hose / Screen
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#12 darlenerobert

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Posted 18 May 2012 - 10:43 AM

Well, after performing perfectly for about 3 loads, the machine stopped in the middle of a wash cycle and began beeping the E11 again. I could hear the water flowing in, so once I get this load spun out, I'm going to check the valve again. If that doesn't do it, I'll try to control board. What a mess. So sick of this. Does this sound like the control board?

#13 darlenerobert

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Posted 19 May 2012 - 04:23 PM

It is finally fixed. So far, so good. I do not think that replacing the board alone would have done it. The intake valve was really sludged up, and definitely needed to be replaced. So, it took $200 in parts, but its done. Now, on to the fridge.




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