Jump to content


Learn appliance repair at the Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Photo

How do you test a Fisher Paykel GWL11 drain pump w/ multimeter?


  • Please log in to reply
6 replies to this topic

#1 Furious-sun

Furious-sun

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 2 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Arrogant Bastard Ale

Posted 24 May 2012 - 10:38 PM

I have a GWL11 washer thats about ten years old. Main board was replaced June 2011 and things have been working fine since. Recently the washer stopped mid cycle and wouldn't drain, not cool. I got into the diagnostic mode and the drain pump still won't come on. I bailed the water and dropped the pump. Impeller spins smooth no burns or corrosion anywhere. Nothing clogging the pump or drain hose.

So is there any way to test the pump with a multimeter to rule it out? :kopkrab:

Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#2 kdog

kdog

    RoughShod

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,465 posts
  • Location: Canada
  • Flavorite Brew:Dickens Cider

Posted 24 May 2012 - 10:39 PM

Is there voltage at the pump ?
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#3 kdog

kdog

    RoughShod

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,465 posts
  • Location: Canada
  • Flavorite Brew:Dickens Cider

Posted 24 May 2012 - 10:43 PM

Try running pump only with a Cheater Cord
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#4 kdog

kdog

    RoughShod

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,465 posts
  • Location: Canada
  • Flavorite Brew:Dickens Cider

Posted 24 May 2012 - 10:48 PM

Fun fact to know:



After Reassembly and Testing…

If the machine is advanced to either rinse or spin

whilst filling or re-circulating, it may take up to 3

minutes before the drain pump turns on. This time

allows the diverter valve to cool down and direct

the water flow to the drain hose.


Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#5 DADoESTX

DADoESTX

    Kohai

  • Master Appliantologist
  • PipPipPip
  • 335 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Iced tea with a spike of earl grey

Posted 24 May 2012 - 10:48 PM

To test the pump with a meter, simply disconnect the wires, set the meter to an ohms scale and test across the terminals. Should read 7 ohms at normal temp (pump not hot from running).

The pump runs on 120v current, so as kdog suggests, it can be bench-run with a test cord.

#6 asteysn2

asteysn2

    Asteysn2

  • Sublime Master of Appliantology
  • PipPipPip
  • 210 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Newcastle, Watneys, Stone's IPA

Posted 24 May 2012 - 10:49 PM

The drain pump should have a resistance of about 7.5 ohms. Anything less than 6 ohms and I would not use the pump again. However there is also the possibility of the pump tripping its thermal sensor even with acceptable resistince. The windings (coil) can get hot from inductive impedence and that cannot be as easily identified. If the pump is shutting down then starting again after a few minutes, that is the cause. Replace the pump, AND install a 2.5 amp SLO_BLO fuse in the pump drain wire.
Robert Sankey
Coastal Appliance, Heating & Air
Website: www.coastalappliances.com
email: coastalserve@gmail.com

#7 kdog

kdog

    RoughShod

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,465 posts
  • Location: Canada
  • Flavorite Brew:Dickens Cider

Posted 24 May 2012 - 10:59 PM

8 DEC 2011: Ecosmart washer: The pump that is currently used in the EcoSmart washer has now been superseded as follows:
Part number 420325P has been superseded to 479595. Pump will include a fuse kit that needs to be fitted.
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."


The Appliance Guru | Master Samurai Tech

Real Time Analytics