Jump to content


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource for DIYers!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Photo

Kenmore refrigerator #365.9530713, FF light off


  • Please log in to reply
6 replies to this topic

#1 DanInKansas

DanInKansas

    Kohai

  • Professional Appliantologist
  • PipPipPip
  • 375 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Lion Imperial or Shiner Bock

Posted 02 June 2012 - 09:06 PM

Okay, so this is embarrassing and confusing, because it's my personal fridge.

Light in the fresh food compartment was flickering on and off for a while. Finally it gave up. Took the bulb out and inspected it, bulb is fine.

Replaced the switch at the bottom of the compartment, thinking I had a sticky switch. Verified the switch's operation before installing it.

Replacing the switch made no difference -- still no light.

Took out the bulb again, and put my meter on the light socket -- I got a reading of 22 volts. Didn't believe the reading, so I did it again. Once again, got 22 volts.

I can understand how I would get 122 volts. I can understand zero. I can not understand 22.

Anyone got an idea?

Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#2 RegUS_PatOff

RegUS_PatOff

    Sensei

  • Academy Instructor
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 33,588 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Chief NTSC Black & White

Posted 02 June 2012 - 10:23 PM

365.9530713

can you check that model number again ?
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#3 DanInKansas

DanInKansas

    Kohai

  • Professional Appliantologist
  • PipPipPip
  • 375 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Lion Imperial or Shiner Bock

Posted 02 June 2012 - 10:26 PM

Sorry, misread the model tag. That should be

363.9530713

#4 RegUS_PatOff

RegUS_PatOff

    Sensei

  • Academy Instructor
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 33,588 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Chief NTSC Black & White

Posted 02 June 2012 - 10:38 PM

... I can understand how I would get 122 volts. I can understand zero. I can not understand 22.

not electronically controlled ...
just the wiring and the Switch and Light Socket ..
must be a bad connection somewhere
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Master Samurai Tech
  • 29,192 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 03 June 2012 - 07:44 AM

22 volts is in the range of junk voltage and is almost always associated with a corroded connection, floating neutral, etc. Check resistance of the neutral side of the socket to the neutral spade on the refrigerator plug. If you get a high resistance reading (anything above 2 ohms) then use the wiring diagram to narrow down the hunt and find the high resistance point. Do the same technique on the L1 side of the socket.

#6 DanInKansas

DanInKansas

    Kohai

  • Professional Appliantologist
  • PipPipPip
  • 375 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Lion Imperial or Shiner Bock

Posted 04 June 2012 - 08:02 PM

I haven't heard the term "junk voltage" before. So a corroded connection will begin to act like a load in series and allocate voltage to itself?

#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Master Samurai Tech
  • 29,192 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 04 June 2012 - 10:20 PM

So a corroded connection will begin to act like a load in series and allocate voltage to itself?


Ezzacly. They can also generate heat, sometimes lots of heat, enough to fry a contact or a terminal connection. A loose connection will act the same way.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."


The Appliance Guru | Master Samurai Tech

Real Time Analytics