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LG WM2688HWMA Leaking Front door seal, possible drain issues

WM2688

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14 replies to this topic

#1 ski_g0d

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Posted 02 June 2012 - 10:56 PM

Hello and thanks in advance for listening to my issue.
I recently acquired a used LG WM2688HWMA washer and attempted to check it today to see if it would function. All seemed fine until the rinse/spin cycle began... the front door seal began leaking from the bottom, which quickly turned to a downpour. I had to physically put pressure on the door to slow the leak until the unit drained. When the cycle said that it was complete, there was still about 3 inches of standing water in the bottom of the unit. I did override the spin cycle to get the unit to drain, as i could not hold the door for 15 mins! Could this have caused the standing water?

I cleaned out the pump filter and drained the excess water using the drain hose. Some debris came out, but otherwise unremarkable. The door gasket smells horrible and is very dirty and moldy. After removal, I can see some gunk on the exterior of the tub.The interior of the unit is very clean and no visible leaks from the rear. The drain hose is properly placed and the drain is free of clogs.

I have ordered a new door gasket and am going to attempt to clean everything. Is it possible to access or remove the tub to scrub the mold from it? Im sure it will be complicated :kopkrab:

Is there anything that you can think of that would be causing this issue other than a very dirty gasket and neglect from previous owner? Clogged hoses? Drain pump?


This forum seems like a great resource...thanks for the help!

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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 03 June 2012 - 06:40 AM

... door seal began leaking from the bottom, which quickly turned to a downpour.

the water level shouldn't be up to the Door
Sounds like you have a Drain / Pump problem.
Can you turn the Pump Impeller easily ?
http://www.repaircli...tDetail/2003273

 

Drain-Pump-4681EA2001T-01367897.jpg


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#3 ski_g0d

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Posted 03 June 2012 - 12:19 PM

I took a look at it this morning. You are correct...The pump impeller will spin, but with some resistance. I know that the unit was previously funtioning. Thanks, I will order the part today!

Do you think that the tub clean function will have enough muscle to get rid of some of the mold build on the inner parts? I am just replacing the front gasket, too much cleaning!

Thanks for the help!

#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 03 June 2012 - 12:33 PM

The pump impeller is driven by a magnetic rotor so will not "freewheel" when you spin it by hand. It will tend to "catch" at the magnetic poles. That's normal. Having said that, the pump may still be bad (and probably is). But the way to test it is with a test cord.

#5 ski_g0d

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Posted 03 June 2012 - 12:39 PM

Copy. I will check it out when I get back from work in a few days. Many thanks.

#6 john63

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Posted 03 June 2012 - 03:43 PM

<<<rinse/spin cycle began... the front door seal began leaking from the bottom, which quickly turned to a downpour. I had to physically put pressure on the door to slow the leak until the unit drained.>>>

******************************

If the door HINGE is corroded (stiff movement)---this will affect the ability of the door to seal against the gasket during locked-mode.

http://www.repaircli...ER2002A/1267595

******************************

<<<When the cycle said that it was complete, there was still about 3 inches of standing water in the bottom of the unit.>>>

******************************

Most likely the DRAIN MOTOR is too slow/intermittent. Replace.

******************************

<<<Do you think that the tub clean function will have enough muscle to get rid of some of the mold build on the inner parts?>>>

******************************

No.

Do the following...

Add TIDE WASHING MACHINE CLEANER to the tub. Close door.

Press/hold both the SPIN SPEED & SOIL LEVEL buttons

Press the START/PAUSE button and release all 3 buttons.

Wait until the door locks (single click sound)

Press the START/PAUSE button 6 times at one second intervals (Hot Water Fill)

When the water stops filling---press the START/PAUSE button 2 more times (Tub Will Tumble)

Leave washer in forced tumble mode for 3 to 4 hours.

When ready---turn off the washer.

Turn on the washer.

Select the SPEED WASH cycle and press START (this will rinse out the tub and end cycle approximately 25 minutes).

Edited by john63, 04 June 2012 - 12:48 AM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#7 ski_g0d

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Posted 03 June 2012 - 05:52 PM

Wow is all I can say... Thank you for the information.
I have ordered a new drain pump and gasket, and should have them in the next week or so. I will update on the results as soon as I can.


Thank you very much!

#8 ski_g0d

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Posted 03 June 2012 - 06:02 PM

I also forgot to discuss the door and hinge. The door seems to open and close smoothly, and latches without any issue. I cant see any visible corrosion on the hinge assembly. When the door is closed and latched I am able to push onto the door and it will go into the unit appox. another 1/2" which feels spring loaded and pushes back to its original position when I release it.

The serial # starts with 805, so I assume that it was built in May 2008? Is that after the hinge issue was dealt with by LG? (I have been reading all of the other applicable posts that I can.)

#9 john63

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Posted 03 June 2012 - 08:28 PM

The door has dual hinges.

On the door itself---there are nylon bushings inside (internally) the door itself---this almost never fails.

The larger hinge on the door---are the dual "forks" that protrude from the front of the washer---if this part of the hinge does not fully slide in and out...

Corroded hinge assy---replace.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#10 john63

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Posted 03 June 2012 - 09:28 PM

<<<The serial # starts with 805, so I assume that it was built in May 2008? Is that after the hinge issue was dealt with by LG?>>>

***************************

Re-designed HINGES were installed in LG washers with Serial Numbers beginning at 806 (2008/June).

Edited by john63, 03 June 2012 - 11:49 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#11 ski_g0d

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Posted 03 June 2012 - 09:47 PM

Dang it. Just missed it by a month... oh well

#12 kdog

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Posted 07 June 2012 - 12:02 AM


Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#13 ski_g0d

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Posted 14 June 2012 - 10:30 AM

I get my last part in today, so I will post an update once I get everything together. Looks like the door hinge was bent also (kid swinging from it I suspect!).

#14 ski_g0d

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Posted 14 June 2012 - 05:01 PM

Just finished replacing the parts and am now following john63's advice of tumbling for a few hours. Everything seems to be working properly!

Thank you all again, my wife was going to kill me :D

#15 ski_g0d

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Posted 14 June 2012 - 06:32 PM

Another note for anyone using this in the future: on my machine I had to press the SPIN SPEED & SOIL LEVEL buttons, followed by the POWER button to get to the test mode. All of john63's other directions in the sequence worked!





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