11 replies to this topic

[Patricio]

Stumper today, Dryer not heating. Breakers, plug receptacle, power cord, & terminal block good. All thermostates & Limit switches & fuses good. Heater core 10 ohms & no short to ground. Dryer less than 2 years old, low mileage.

Disassemble entire dryer & start tracing circuits terminal block to timer to temp switches to motor (it works) to all points in between, Checking both continuity & Live wire. A few (ouch) jolts (volts). finally at upper limit hot wire from timer Hot at timer dead at insulated spade terminal at upper high limit switch. Re crimp spade & drying cooking like it was nothing.

1.5 hours with customer looking at me like I did not know what i was doing (kinda wondered myself) but perserverance prevailed. Charge $80 no parts installed, customer got a vacuumed out unit in the process. Think I charged enough, Diagnostic charge is $75 Flat. $5 for the crimp. Kinda think I should have collected $100. Your input.

Patricio

Edited by Patricio, 05 June 2012 - 11:38 PM.

[RegUS_PatOff]

You may have not been the first servicer for that problem on their Dryer,
but you were the first servicer to find the problem and fix it
They may call you first, on their next appliance repair.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

My flat rate charge (from the Blue Book) for a wire repair is $125.

[KurtiusInterupptus]

Would cost you $109.90 from me...$145.85 if I spent over an hour.

[NCARepair]

$118 for me.

[Patricio]

So much for self pats on the back. Customer called this evening, dryer not cooking. Stopped by late, sure enough no heat. Went to limit, sure enough no juice flowing into switch. Backtract to timer, very low voltage from red lead. Check black wire from terminal block, 120 going into timer. Light Blue wire coming out=120V. Purple 120V. Other timer connection, W-BL-120V, W-BU-120V, timer motor spinning in window timer on timed drive or auto same readings. Check temp switch for ohms believe in range.

All this time motor turning drum. Go back to check voltage, meter still set on R1 ohms. There goes fuse. Get digital meter out, check red wire at timer terminal connection. Have 120V, reconnect to limit switch, 120V both sides, Heater not getting hot, lose 120V out of timer again. I am tired it's almost 10 PM. Pack up & go home, Return tommorrow afternoon hopefully. Any suggestions?

Whirlpool WED5100VQ1

[RegUS_PatOff]

Alll votage measurements should be made with the devices connected,
unless otherwise directed.

Try one or both of these methods:

With the Dryer running on a normal heat cycle,
measure the voltage across each thermal device.
(should read 0v AC)

With the Dryer ruinning on a no-heat cycle,
measure the voltage to chassis (ground)
from each side of each of the thermal devices.
(should read 120v AC)

[Patricio]

Put unit in auto cycle, tested all thermal devices, 0v. dryer was working, heating, until it cycled off, thermal devices still0v. Heating element did not come back on. Timer shut unit down before reaching cool down stage on dile. In timed dry Heater never energized. In Fluff cycle all thermals connections are 120v to chassis.

worked with unit longer than I would like to admit, but I got timer in a dead mode both timed & fluff cycle. Then as I kept advancing & turning back timer knob, Motor started to hiccup. Wiggled on timer and all cycles dead then wiggle more all cycles back alive. Sometimes heating element would energize & some times motor would hiccup. Then timer started working normal.

Think timer is on last leg? Got lots to learn still. I want to understand everything so I am able to professionable repair all appliances.

[RegUS_PatOff]

... In Fluff cycle all thermals connections are 120v to chassis.
... Wiggled on timer and all cycles dead then wiggle more all cycles back alive.
... Think timer is on last leg?

1) that's what I was looking for .... = bad Timer
2) bad Timer
3) yes
http://www.repaircli...tDetail/1546812

[Patricio]

So that means if I have 120v to chassis on thermals the timer is shorting to chassis? Not switch contacts wearing out. trying to learn.

[RegUS_PatOff]

The 120v you measured was from the L2 side of the 240v power.
It comes from L2, through the Motor Centrifugal Switch (when running), through the Heater Element, through the Thermostats,
through the Thermal Cut-off and if that whole side of the power circuit is working,
that only leaves a bad (open) Timer contacts.

[Patricio]

Ah so, OK ordered the timer from your link, 2 day shipping. Will install on Thursday. Another question. How do you check the start relay on the console? For my information in the future. Thank you Patricio.

Edited by Patricio, 10 June 2012 - 10:42 AM.