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GSD600 Tiled in, need to change spring cutter from above... tips?

Spring Cutter

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5 replies to this topic

#1 Vets Appliance

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Posted 06 June 2012 - 10:55 AM

Hello all,

First time poster, long time fan, etc. etc.

I'm a tech with 7 years in appliances and 25 years in troubleshooting and repair. I have a parts call to finish on a GSD600G-01 that has been tiled in by "contractors" (I use the term loosely). It's the typical lazy tile guy problem only this one is so tight that even if you took the feet all the way off I think even just the frame still won't clear the vertical space from tile to counter... and the motor? Forget it. The countertop appears to have been glued to the cabinetry... yea, this one's a real winner.

She's got a bad spring cutter (WD1X1339). V&V Applaince Parts has assured me over and over that the number has not been replaced and this is the original part despite a ton I've read online about the cutter having been updated and requiring a new impeller to match the new cutter.

Diagram: http://www.vvapplian.../165838/1230980

This is the OLD GE motor style... the big black one with sharp fan fins in front. Has anyone replaced a spring cutter through the top rather than dropping the sump assy on these? Hot tips are appreciated.

I do know how to drop the sump without uninstalling the DW on the more common newer sumps (a neat trick that I thought couldn't be done until I was taught... and lost $20 when I bet the other tech that it was impossible). If the spring cutter can't be replaced through the top, is it possible to drop the sump through the bottom without uninstalling the DW on these older styles with the big black motor with sharp fins?

Thanks all,

Scott
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#2 tommytech

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Posted 06 June 2012 - 11:31 AM

thata a neat trick,but a d/w that old the spring is most likely rusted ontp the shaft.i would have a "pro" remove the tiles in front of d/w

#3 Vets Appliance

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Posted 06 June 2012 - 01:20 PM

If she has a tile guy bust it out I'll tell her to replace it rather than put more money into it. The only reason I recommended the repair is that the cost of getting it out of the hole, as well as the risk of damaging the counter if it's jacked up, make it worth the effort to fix. This thing had more black organic, sewage like matter than I've ever seen before... so much that the float was packed with it and the float stuck. That was a result of at least a year or two of built up, rotting food that couldn't get past the screen without a cutter.

Normally I'd have condemned it on sight... and stench.

I charge $69.95 for a call out so I can be honest with people and say to scrap anything if the repair isn't really a good investment. I've had months where I had a 33% condemn rate. Sometimes that's just life, but sometimes there are other factors, such as tile.

I once had a customer pay $400 to fix a GE Spacemaker 2 rather than replace it because they had done their own decorative stone work in the kitchen and ran it up so tight to the MW that the act of leaning it forward to take it out would have required the stone to be chipped out.
Me: "Why are my customers always so happy to see me arrive but then say they hope to not see me again anytime soon?"
Joe Customer: "Because we have to pay you to leave."

#4 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 07 June 2012 - 06:06 AM

That old style of motor will come out just like the newer ones without removing the dishwasher.

It's a tight fit and depending on how high the tile is in front of the dishwasher you may still have a hard time dragging the motor out from under the machine.

If the impeller/seal kit has been changed in the last 10-15 years you would have the newer style impeller that comes with a solid metal chopper blade instead of the spring and the spring style chopper will not fit on the new style of impeller and the new style chopper blade will not fit on the old spring chopper style impeller.

I've never had to replace just the chopper blade and didn't think they even made the spring style one anymore but it looks like they do, RepairClinic has them in stock for $3.90 plus shipping.

http://www.repaircli...WD1X1339/270166

If the spring chopper wasn't broken off you could very possibly get it out from the sump but without the end to get a hold of you have very little room going down thru the sump to get anything in there to grasp what might be left of the old spring. It might be possible with a right angled pair of forceps to grasp the spring and then turn the fan blades to unscrew it.

I believe trying to get it out thru the sump area without removing the pump assembly is going to be a major headache and may end up in a bunch of wasted time.
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#5 Vets Appliance

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Posted 07 June 2012 - 03:47 PM

Thanks, yea I'm kind of dreading this one. If the sump can be dropped I will probably have an easier time of it if I drop the sump even if I can't get it out from under the unit due to the tile. At least that way I can spin the sump around to get a better angle and I can probably pull the impeller assy even if I have to work on the sump while it's under the unit but loose so I can move it around. She's scheduled for tomorrow morning... wish me luck lol
Me: "Why are my customers always so happy to see me arrive but then say they hope to not see me again anytime soon?"
Joe Customer: "Because we have to pay you to leave."

#6 RussTech

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Posted 07 June 2012 - 03:57 PM

I run into a bunch of similar tile situations. Most times two guys working together, one lifting on the countertop, other pulling on the unit etc etc gets it done.




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