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dragon

No spin KAWE650V washer

13 posts in this topic

My washing machine does not spin.

It fills, agitates, changes to spin cycle.

There the problem starts. It makes a loud clicking noise. Like click click click click click. Continuously.

It does drain but the tub does not spin.

I suspect the coupler or transmission from reading this forum for an hour but I have no washer repair knowledge.

What could the problem be?

Kitchen Aid KAWE650V washer bought 1989. I do not know if it is direct drive.

Arigatou.

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Here is a pic of part of the coupling. The inner plastic part was too deep to get a good picture and looks like the outer plastic part. The coupling looks OK to me. So is the transmission the problem?

post-526-129045084825_thumb.jpg

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Check the drive block.  See this thread for more information.

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Click - slow, rapid? Does this happen on all speeds?

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Click speed is about 3 per second and very regular intervals.  Loudness moderate.  Not ear splitting.  Not a whisper.  Clicks are somewhat louder than the normal wash cycle noise and less noisy than normal spin dry noise.  But not similar to any normal operating noise for the KAWE650v.

Clicks only in the spin dry mode and in permanent press or regular fabric cycle. 

I ran the machine in the spin dry mode with the lid open and the switch for the lid held down by a pen.  The clicks were continuous at about 3 per second.  The water did drain.  Tub did not move at all. 

As to other cycles, not the spin dry cycle, regular water fill cycle is normal and no clicks.  Regular wash cycle seem to work with no click and the agitator moves.  I did not try to rotate the tub.   

Do I need that special spanner wrench to look at the drive block?

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I'd suggest a look at this.....wpddwashbasketdrive.jpg?dc=4675515877463181674

View from underneath with transmission dropped. The plastic "ear" may have worn or broken, it has to engage with the clutch in order to spin.

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Found that the plastic fingers that you mentioned were broken. I think the broken part is called "plastic cam on basket drive". Is this also called the "brake cam"? See picture of my broken one below. I cannot see any other broken parts. Should something else be broken? I was told a shirt got caught and was shredded apart just before the washer failed to spin-dry. Is a shirt getting stuck enough to break the plastic finger?

But what part should I buy. The clutch kit 285785 or the basket drive and brake assembly, or something else entirely?

Both the clutch kit and the basket drive and brake seem to have that plastic cam. Or am I totally confused.

Can this plastic cam be replaced without removing the tub nut and the drive block?

Thanks

post-526-129045084897_thumb.jpg

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Here is a pic of my clutch. Have not yet removed the transmission fully. I did not yet get the wrench to remove the tub nut.

post-526-129045084898_thumb.jpg

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The plastic piece or cam driver,  is in the clutch kit.

It is held on by a C clamp which you pry off with a flatblade screwdriver.

Did you check for a noisy obstruction inside the pump like a bra wire?

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Wait a minute I just read that it does not even try to spin?

Will the drum turn freely by hand?

You do have a good direct drive model.

If the coupler is ok - this looks like a bad transmission which can make noise also.

I would hook up the motor to trans and run carefully for a few seconds without installing in machine

just snap it together, and block it so it can't run away on you, then walk away before plugging it in.

A bad trans won't turn the clutch.

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"Wait a minute I just read that it does not even try to spin?

Will the drum turn freely by hand?"

YES.

"You do have a good direct drive model."

YES

"If the coupler is ok - this looks like a bad transmission which can make noise also."

" would hook up the motor to trans and run carefully for a few seconds without installing in machine"

PUT THE TRANS BACK ON BUT WITHOUT MOTOR. TURNED THE COUPLER BY HAND IN CLOCKWISE DIRECTION. THE CLUTCH MOVED FROM RIGHT TO LEFT WHEN VIEWED FROM FRONT OF MACHINE. AND IT MAKE A CLICK SOUND ONCE PER CLUTCH REVOLUTION.

TURNED THE COUPLER BY HAND COUNTERCLOCKWISE. THE CLUTCH DID NOT MOVE.

"just snap it together, and block it so it can't run away on you, then walk away before plugging it in."

"A bad trans won't turn the clutch."

IS IT POSSIBLE TO TELL IF I HAVE A PLASTIC PIECE OR CAM DRIVER AND A BAD TRANSMISSION?

I DO NOT SEE ANY REMAINING OBSTRUCTIONS UNDER THE AGITATOR WHICH I DID REMOVE. THANKS.

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Thanks to all of you helpers. Fixed it. Replaced "cam driver". Tip of plastic part was broken. Plastic part came with clutch kit. I think it may be available as part of the clutch lining kit but local store with high prices did not have lower priced option.

I also learned that it is easy to bend the front lower frame by standing on it. The cabinet will not fit if this part of the frame is bent. So do not stand on the front part of the frame.

I did remove the tub nut but could not pull out the inner drum. Tried rocking the tub. Would not come out. I wanted to check the drive block for wear.

How can the inner tub be removed? Thanks again.

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When the lock nut is removed, the basket pulls up off of the drive block, but sometimes they do stick and are a bear to break loose.  Have someone pull up and push down, rocking the basket, on the side of the spin basket while giving the top of the drive block a good wack or five by hitting with a hammer something solid, like a small metal pipe,  having it sit on the top of the drive block. being sure not go hit the top of the drive block near the two ears of the spin tube.  sometimes the drive block will pull out with the spin basket if it is really stuck.

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