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katiedidis

Maytag refrigerator #PBF2255HEW

4 posts in this topic

Both refrig & freezer are not cooling. In past, it would defrost on its own. I would unplug and hours later plug in and would work properly. Now not cooling at. Can you please help?

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

This unit uses a 12868513 main board and I'm in the middle of a call on one of these right now (scheduled to install the board tomorrow).

1) Pull off the plastic grate on the front of the unit under the freezer.

2) Feel underneath around the left/middle of the hole with your palm turned upward and your fingers dragging along the top of the cavity where you can't see. You should find a plastic pouch there. Rip it open and get the paper out of it. If it's not on the left, check the right but it's in there somewhere.

3) I can't remember which is which but you open the refrigerator door, press the door switch up top with you finger (to make the light go out). Then there are two modes. For one you press the refrigerator up button 3x and let go of the switch and the other you press refrigerator down 3x and then let go. Check that paperwork that was underneath to be sure.

4) First, use the service mode to run tests #4 and 5. This will check the temperature sensors. P is pass, O means it can't get electricity through it at all and S means that the sensor is acting like a straight piece of wire, which is bad. Anything other than P for each of the tests could mean that the computer is getting funky information and this could, at times, mess with it's defrost timing. However this unit is supposed to defrost every 4 hours regardless of what temp it thinks the fridge and freezer are at. On a GE the thermistors (temp sensors) can wreak havoc with the defrost system and I check them out of habit... your will probably pass on both tests but it's good to be sure.

5) Now while still in service mode run test #1. This checks that the unit can get power through the defrost system at all. In this case you want to see an S, telling you that the safety thermostat is properly closed. Then lean over and listen carefully with your attention directed to the vent holes at the bottom of the freezer's back wall. Yes, it's a pain, yes you will probably have to pull out both baskets, yes it has to be done. If you hear sizzling like water hitting red hot metal, this is expected and tells you the defrost heater is getting hot. If not, this may not mean much as test #1 doesn't run the heater for long and it may not get all the way to temperature.

6) Flick the refrigerator door switch and the display will go to - and - . Now, whatever way you got into service mode (3x left or right) do the other. This puts you into "Forced Defrost" mode, as evidenced by the Fd. Activate that per the instructions in the paperwork and listen, once again, for the sizzle. Odds are you will hear it.

If you did all this and the tests passed, thermostat is closed and your heater is getting hot, then the only thing left is the main board... which is already getting a notorious reputation for failing in a way that is preventing the unit from defrosting. The main board is located just behind the temp control buttons in the top of the refrigerator compartment and it's a pretty easy thing to swap out but TURN THE POWER OFF AND UNPLUG THE UNIT before sticking your fingers in the circuitry to prevent having a VERY bad hair day, or getting killed.

The main board part number is 12868513 and I strongly recommend getting it via the link above because no other parts supplier I know of will allow you to return an electronic part if you find that the problem is something else, and they also will take it back within one year.

When you are done, PUT THE TECHNICAL SHEET BACK IN THE POUCH. If you ever need service again and call a tech it will be the first thing they go looking for and if they need the wiring information then that paper is crucial. I have had jobs where an expensive appliance had to be junked because it had a complex electrical issue, no one could get the tech sheet and the original had disappeared so there was no wiring diagram to be had.

It came in that pouch for a reason... it needs to find it's way back home when you're done with it.

Good luck!

Scott

Edited by ScottsApplianceRepar

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... Now not cooling at.

Does the Compressor run ?

Does the Condenser Fan (by the Compressor) run ?

Does the Freezer Fan run (with Door Switch closed) ?

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