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GE Nautilus Dishwasher Won't Drain GSD3400G00WW


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7 replies to this topic

#1 mslezak

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Posted 16 June 2012 - 02:00 AM

GE Nautilus Dishwasher Won't Drain GSD3400G00WW

This is a nightmare. Here's what I've done so far:

Replaced motor and entire pump /valves assembly.
Replaced the drain solenoid that controls the drain valve (piston type deal attached to a spring)
Replaced the impeller.
Checked the check valve in the back, even forced it closed with wire, also tried without it, ran cycles, no change.
Checked the flapper one-way valve in the plastic connection where the drain hose connects, works as it should
Moved the drain itself down to the same level as the disposal.
Drained into a bucket instead of the disposal - was pretty small splashes of water over a few minutes.
Checked the switch that is attached to the float in the front left that controls the water valve on/off.
Cleaned out all filters, screens, etc.
The only way I've gotten it to ever drain completely was to remove the drain hose and let gravity push the water out into a bucket.

I've basically replaced or tested everything in this dishwasher. This tells me it would be whatever control board that controls the drain cycle. I can't find such a thing for this dishwasher.

Anyone have a part # or have suggestions on what else it could be?

Any help is appreciated!!!

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#2 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 16 June 2012 - 02:43 AM

Talk some more about the "check valve "in the back...sez you forced its closed with wire...what does this mean?
the force of the water being ejected is what closes this piston and nut assembly, preventing the drain water from being recycled into the tub.
It is most common that the rubber cone portion of this part degrades to the point it will no longer seal. To inspect, remove and observe.
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#3 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 16 June 2012 - 06:53 AM

for reference ...
and... are the Hoses clogged ?
gedwcheckvalve.png

http://www.repaircli...rtDetail/821081

 

Check-Valve-WD24X10018-01185411.jpg

http://www.repaircli...rtDetail/824346

 

Check-Valve-WD22X10024-00564914.jpg


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#4 mslezak

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Posted 16 June 2012 - 10:11 AM

Yes the check valve still seals - just as a check, I used a wire to force it to stay closed during the drain cycle (so water was for sure not coming back into the tub) and I'm sure it sealed - it drained the same as usual. I took it out, held the spring closed and manually blew air over it and the rubber cone sealed properly, also ran water over it and the spring loaded rubber piece closes and seals. Looks good.

Let me check the hoses as you mentioned and blow some air through them.. thanks!

#5 mslezak

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Posted 16 June 2012 - 10:48 AM

Drain hoses have no obstructions: Took the drain hose off the disposal then blew air into it - the check valve #564 closes and doesn't let any air in. When I put suction on the line, water came out and filled up a pan, but eventually stopped. Took out hose 559 as well and it is clear as can be. When I had it off, I could manually operate the solenoid valve on the pump and the water from the bottom of the tub poured out from gravity.

GOT IT TO DRAIN MANUALLY: I took off the power connector to the water supply valve, then manually turned the timer to the drain cycle 3x. The water cleared out of the tub. It holds the drain solenoid open for about 60 seconds, which appears to not be long enough. Is this a Timer problem? Control board?

Anyone know what part controls the opening of the solenoid drain valve???

Thanks!

Edited by mslezak, 16 June 2012 - 11:41 AM.


#6 mslezak

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Posted 16 June 2012 - 11:00 AM

Photo.. this is how it looks after 1 drain cycle...

Attached Files


Edited by mslezak, 16 June 2012 - 11:42 AM.


#7 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 17 June 2012 - 06:15 AM

You may have a bad seal on the drain flap inside the pump body.

Give this a try:
1) Disconnect power cord or turn off circuit breaker!

2) Take the plastic guard off the wires at the drain solenoid and pull one of the wires off, (preferably the white neutral), and insulate it with electrical tape and then put it back on the drain solenoid, (just don't push it on real tight, you're going to need to be able to pull it off quickly and easily).

3) Put the timer at the start of a cycle and let it fill with water and let it wash, you can advance it part way thru but you want to let it go into drain by itself so that you get the full drain cycle.

4) As soon as the drain cycle starts wait about 10 seconds and pull the wire that you left a little loose off the drain solenoid valve. Make sure it doesn't touch anything!

If the valve solenoid doesn't stay down when you remove the power from it then you have a bad seal on the drain flapper valve. The solenoid should only be engaged for about 30 to 60 seconds and then the water pressure holds the flapper sealed against the wash arm outlet for the rest of the drain cycle. As soon as the water is all out there is no more pressure holding the drain valve open and the springs return it to the normal wash position.

The solenoid doesn't even close the drain flap all the way, it pulls it most of the way closed then the water pressure closes it the rest of the way, (that's the reason for the elongated slot in the drain flapper lever that the solenoid pulls down). You can see this by pulling the solenoid down manually then grab the flapper lever and pull it down about a quarter inch further where the lever pushes against the spring loaded lever on the solenoid mounting plate.

If the seal on the flapper valve is bad the water pressure won't be able to seal the flapper valve against the wash arm outlet so as it is trying to drain, water is still entering the tub and wash arm instead of all going out the drain, (that could also account for the weak drain stream), then as soon as the solenoid releases, the drain flapper goes back to the wash position and no drain for the last half of the drain cycle.

If this is the problem you will need to replace the pump.

EDITED TO ADD: Looks like the above may not help you any, I went back to the first post and see that you already replace the complete pump assembly, "Replaced motor and entire pump /valves assembly."

Must be overlooking something simple, it appears that you have replaced most of the functioning parts of the machine.

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair, 17 June 2012 - 06:19 AM.

William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#8 Brooke Falconer

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Posted 24 June 2012 - 11:38 PM

Just a thought, you said that you removed the drain hose to the disposal.......is the disposal portal clogged? Is it a new disposal? I have seen many a garbage disposal installed where the plastic piece for the dishwasher drain hose isn't removed or is only partially removed.
In all these dishwashers I have seen a no drain situation is always a check valve or something blocking the pump.




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