Jump to content



Learn appliance repair at the Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.


Parts Search
Site Search

FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


To get started, click here.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Photo

LG Tromm 2277HM banging on spin


  • Please log in to reply
10 replies to this topic

#1 docknibbs

docknibbs

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 8 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 22 June 2012 - 03:27 PM

HI,
Is it possible something could have gotten out of a load of wash and worked its way between the drum and the housing or is the drum banging itself? I only notice as it reaches high spin speeds and worsens up to the highest spin speeds. It has a metallic banging as if one of the balls in the fins inside is loose. I've read online and some describe when bearings are going out there is an 'airplane' sound but I don't get that type of sound. It is more a metallic chatter that gets faster and faster. How do I troubleshoot?

if bearings are bad or a suspension spring bad will it do it when drum is empty and on a rinse and spin cycle as well as if drum is loaded? I'm thinking it is possible that loads are not balanced but I didn't notice this before with big loads.

I do see the tub seems to be rocking forward and backward but I never really studied it that closely in past (this is my wife's area) Maybe it is slamming into the front of the frame? What would do that?

About 6 mo ago we had the 'freezing' and jumping back and forth of the drum and replaced the little electronic position sensor (can't remember exact name of part now but read hundreds of posts about that problem) and that problem went away. Just in last 2 weeks had this new noise.

Only thing else to add is that my wife washed the liner from our car seat including the straps and buckles. The bottom buckles are plastic with metal clips. We let it dry in the garage and when we went back to putting it all together one of the plastic/metal buckles was missing. We tore the house and garage apart and still can't find it. Could that have got wedged between the drum and gasket somehow?

No water leaks, I ran fingers around the drum rubber gasket, nothing seems wrong there. No water leaks. Cleaned the filter and only got a few candy wrappers.

Any other ideas?

Thanks a ton!
JDK

Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#2 docknibbs

docknibbs

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 8 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 22 June 2012 - 03:44 PM

I'm watching it spin faster right now again and it seems to be rocking from front to back and generating mechanical noise that way and that may be the banging noise. Does that help?

#3 tommytech

tommytech

    Sōhei

  • Appliantologist
  • PipPipPip
  • 176 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:guiness

Posted 25 June 2012 - 04:00 PM

with machine stopped/pause, if you pull on the inner basket is there alot of free play? same if you lift it up and down?

#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Master Samurai Tech
  • 29,807 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 26 June 2012 - 08:23 AM

May just need to replace the drum support support shocks ==> http://www.repaircli...Number=WM2277HW

#5 docknibbs

docknibbs

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 8 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 26 June 2012 - 09:38 PM

Thanks to the 2 who have given input. I checked out the wash tub tonight. If you look at the tub like the face of the clock, if I push backwards at the 9 oclock and 3 oclock position it is quite tight. Rocking horizontally gripping at 9pm and 3pm is quite tight.

Pushing at the 12 pm position the tub just easily pushes all the way back to the back of the washer (bottom tends to come forward quite far). Pushing on the 6pm position there seems to be resistance and as the tub goes back the resistance goes 'clunk' It doesn't go as far back as it does when pushing at 12pm position but like there is some resistance. If I rock back and forth a bit by pushing on the 6pm position I can reproduce the clunking noise I'm hearing when the washer is on spin and clunking.

So I'm guessing a support shock or maybe more than one is bad?

Thanks for the link on where to order. How many shocks are there? Do I order and replace all? Take a chance that it is probably one 1 shock and order one? or order 2 for the 12 and 6pm position?

I hate to back the tub out of the corner (big job) open it up diagnose it, then put it all back, order parts, then pull it out when parts come in and take it all apart again. It would be nice to have parts before tearing it apart.

Can someone walk me through how to get to the back side of the drum to replace the shocks and any pitfalls or special tools needed along the way? Pictures would be great!

I appreciate all the help!

JDK

#6 docknibbs

docknibbs

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 8 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 02 July 2012 - 09:02 PM

I watched some more, I think the support shock must be it. How many are there? What steps do I take to take it apart to see the shocks and test which one/ones are bad? Should I replace all at once even if they seem good in case they go bad soon in the future? Thanks! JDK

#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Master Samurai Tech
  • 29,807 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 03 July 2012 - 11:34 AM

There are three shocks in your washer, also called the damper assembly. Replace all three at the same time. Yes, this is the most likely cause of the problem you're seeing.

As far as replacement, the service manual for your washer should help you. Normally, manuals are only available to Apprentices but consider it a 4th of July gift. ==> https://dl.dropbox.c...vice_Manual.pdf

But a love-offering to my flavorite charity would be gratefully accepted ==> http://beer.fixitnow.com/ :gulp:

#8 john63

john63

    Dean of LG Appliantology

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,211 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 03 July 2012 - 09:27 PM

<<<It is more a metallic chatter that gets faster and faster. >>>

**********************

Usually an indication that the TRUNNION and/or BEARING SHAFT on the *stainless steel* tub assy has cracked or is severely corroded (failed).

If the washer is in a laundry room with a *wood floor*---that would be the likely cause of OUTER TUB BEARING failure and/or STAINLESS STEEL TUB failure (extreme stress/fatigue related failure).

The SERIAL NUMBER helps identify the washer build date and other information.

NOTE: In the unlikely event that the DAMPERS are worn/failed---LG introduced a new/redesigned DAMPER (383EER3001V)
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#9 docknibbs

docknibbs

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 8 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 03 July 2012 - 09:46 PM

A huge thanks to all of you that replied. I was getting ready to take this beast all apart and put new parts in it. Yet, after turning the house and garage upside down I still couldn't find that lost clip from the car seat and it sounded like that thing was chattering around in there. Yet I looked and looked in the washer, in the gasket, couldn't see it. Last night my wife was doing wash and I heard the spin speed start up and the chatter started. Then all of a sudden it was silent and the drum was spinning smooth and free. When the cycle completed my wife opened the door and at the 6 oclock position lying on the gasket was the car seat clip!! The plastic was chewed up but it works fine.

Case solved. I may still have some loose suspension springs as it does seem to rock around in there quite freely when I push on it but at least the bad noise is gone! where that thing got wedged in there and how it got out is beyond me!

Someone mentioned that having a washer mounted on a wood floor is bad for it. Most people want their washer on the mainfloor and most people have a wood floor system, so in my house I'm building, how should they frame the floor to best handle my washer and dryer in the laundry room? I'm not going to pour concrete in there but might be able to get the builder to change the framing in the floor or something.

Thanks
JDK

#10 john63

john63

    Dean of LG Appliantology

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,211 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 03 July 2012 - 10:02 PM

<<< I may still have some loose suspension springs as it does seem to rock around in there quite freely>>>

****************************

Not likely.

****************************

<<<where that thing got wedged in there and how it got out is beyond me!>>>

****************************

Between the lip of the stainless steel tub and the front of the outer tub.

***************************

<<<how should they frame the floor to best handle my washer and dryer in the laundry room?>>>

***************************

LG washers built from 2009 to the present are *designed* for wood floor laundry rooms. No need to modify/alter laundry room floors.

If your LG was built from 2004 thru 2007---and has been used on a wood floor since new---the BEARINGS/TRUNNION have been subjected to abnormally high levels of spin cycle stress (violent shaking).
Bearing failure is not too far off in the future. Most WM2277 washers on wood floors exhibit bearing failure at or around the 5th year---if used at least 8 times a week (416 loads per year).
New LG washers with the TRUE BALANCE feature---do not violently wobble/shake during the spin cycle---bearings last much longer.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#11 docknibbs

docknibbs

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 8 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 04 July 2012 - 08:43 AM

What is the best way to build my future laundry room floor to prevent wobble/vibration damage? I can't do concrete, should I double layer the plywood? Put the floor joists closer together?

THanks




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."


The Appliance Guru | Master Samurai Tech

Real Time Analytics