Whirlpool modular ice maker thermal fuse on black wire in harness
Posted 02 July 2012 - 08:44 PM
Yes, I know.....heat. But why does the mold get hot enough to open the fuse? Could leaving the IM on with water supply shut off do this? Or does it usually point to a problem with the module?
Posted 03 July 2012 - 07:32 AM
Posted 04 July 2012 - 06:31 PM
Looking at the wiring and timing contacts...what would happen if the motor gave up the ghost shortly after a harvest cycle started? Would the mold heater element then remain energized until something happened to interrupt current to the IM(owner turns off the unit or mold gets hot enough to open the thermal fuse)?
Posted 05 July 2012 - 05:23 AM
Makes sense that this fuse is designed to blow if heater is stuck on during a stalled cycle. Excerpt from above manual:
The thermo-fuse is spliced into the black wire of the
ice maker wiring harness. It is a 170° F non-resettable
fuse. A no ice complaint could be caused by excessive
heat. Replacing only the wiring harness will only
temporarily solve the complaint. The ice maker
thermostat should also be replaced.
NOTE' Currently wiring diagrams do not show the
We, the unwilling, led by the unknowing, are doing the impossible for the ungrateful. We have done so much, for so long, with so little, we are now qualified to do anything with nothing.
The views and opinions expressed in this post are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect nor represent the views and opinions held by my employer. All data and information provided is for informational purposes only.
Posted 20 July 2012 - 10:48 AM
New icemaker installed, jumpered T to H to initiate harvest. Removed jumper wire after about 10 seconds of motor run and the IM continues to complete cycle. Only problem....no water at end of cycle. Checked voltage both at fill valve(between brown wire and ground) and at IM test ports between V and N. Voltage during 7 second fill time is only 6 volts both places. I have 120 to IM.
Posted 04 August 2012 - 04:55 PM
Not so fast, bunky.
When I installed the new IM and started a harvest cycle all was good, but no water fill at the end of the cycle.
Resolution is that the solenoid was shorted on the water valve. Resistance of coil is 3 paltry ohms, resistance of neighboring water-in-the door coil is 269 ohms, and I know that one is functional. Verified by attaching IM connector to the door water solenoid and running a harvest cycle. Sure enough, water flowed from the door water dispenser for 7 seconds, give or take.
Revised theory....water valve coil gave up the ghost, which caused the old IM to cycle almost continuouslyI(no water in it to slow the cooling of the mold and the closing of the thermostat). Eventually the drive motor quit and then the mold overheated and cooked the thermal fuse.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
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Posted 19 July 2013 - 07:09 AM
Durham Appliance Thrift & Repair, LLC
Posted 19 July 2013 - 11:15 AM
A shorted mold heater will interfere with voltage supplied to the inlet valve solenoid and if the heater shorts to the point that it blows the thermal fuse in the harness it can take out the valve as well. Most common cause of a shorted heater is a leak through the Teflon coating of the mold. I recall the older GE heat release icemakers that produced the round cubes. That icemaker did not have a thermal fuse so when the ejector got jammed during harvest (usually due to a bad shaft seal), the mold heater stayed on, damaging the freezer liner.
Posted 19 July 2013 - 02:24 PM
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