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LG side by side freezer fan problem or ice maker

Er FF freezer fan ice maker

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42 replies to this topic

#21 john63

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Posted 26 November 2012 - 10:51 PM

<<<I suppose you are suggesting that the flow could be too strong therefore cause the splash or spill over?>>>

********************

It's *possible*. Depends on the actual water pressure.

********************

<<<I can roll out my refridgerator tomorrow and check the top plate. I assume this is the long retangular plate?>>>

********************

Yes

********************

<<<If I do have an original / old MAIN board, what can be done?>>>

********************

Replace the MAIN BOARD. All replacement Main Boards are updated/revised.

********************

<<<Was it recalled or under any kind of extended replacement?>>>

********************

No recall. This type of refinement or quality improvement is typical in all brands and types of appliances.
Every month---there's dozens of SERVICE BULLETINS published for factory authorized technicians---at nearly every manufacturer's Servicer-Access-Only websites. Endless.
Part of the reason that I have *gray* hair---is from reading these things.

********************

<<<Does LG do anything to help out?>>>

********************


For safety-related issues---absolutely.
For product quality-improvement issues---when the original warranty expires---almost never.
Again---this is industry-wide.
Keep in mind that---the majority of Service Bulletins are actually released/published during the period---when the appliance is under the ORIGINAL factory warranty---not after the warranty expires.
Otherwise---what would be the point.
The purpose of Service Bulletins is to assist warranty servicers---in diagnosing and resolving faults during warranty period.
Your refrigerator is approximately 5 years old (from purchase date).
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

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#22 plsbcheap

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Posted 27 November 2012 - 05:21 PM

well, I just looked at this part number EBR58010501 main board. $277? and I don't even know if this is really the problem or not. How would a bad board cause ice formation on the auger motor or behind the plastic wall (cavity where the fan blows air)? That is a really expensive test to try. I'd rather get rid of the refridgerator and buy a new one. The silly water valve cost $90.

I'm just not sure what to do next....


#23 john63

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Posted 27 November 2012 - 06:26 PM

<<<How would a bad board cause ice formation on the auger motor or behind the plastic wall (cavity where the fan blows air)?>>>

***********************

After the Defrost Cycle---the Compressor will run---but the Freezer Fan Motor operation is *delayed* to allow continued draining of water droplets(from the defrost cycle).
Prevents moisture from being "whipped" (and accumulating) by Fan Motor air movement behind freezer duct work (panels).

Additionally---the MOISTURE SENSORS in the freezer and refrigerator were often *buried* in insulation---resulting in incorrect temperature data feedback to the Main Board. To correct this---remove the Moisture Sensor cover/cage and "dig out" the sensor from the cured insulation---and install the sensors onto the cover/cage (snaps on)---re-install sensor covers.

Newer door gaskets were introduced in 2009---with an improved sealing lip---to prevent moisture "leakage" into the refrigerator (moisture in the air). Checking the condition and quality of both door gaskets is highly recommended.

**************************

<<<I'd rather get rid of the refridgerator and buy a new one.>>>

**************************

I never discourage buying a new appliance---if that's what the customer wants :)
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#24 plsbcheap

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 09:57 PM

John63

awesome help, thanks. I think I will pull it out soon and maybe even move it out to garage to watch it and work on it a while before I decide if I buy a new one.  Right now in this economy I was not planning on making our family's Christmas present a new fridge!  I have only had it 5 years.

 

RegUS

I see the manual listed on this post but it does not contain the appendix or page 166 with the part discriptions etc.  I wanted to drill down a little and see part numbers before tearing into it.  John63 mentions the sensors and I want to actually see them on the diagram first.  Can anyone link me to that info?

thanks



#25 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 10:04 PM

LSC27926ST Parts List and Diagrams


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#26 certified tech group 51

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 10:39 AM

Your problem looks like the same problem I have ran across with Frigidaire  refrigerators...Ice was forming on the back wall and running down into the blades of the evaporator motor.......When I looked at the picture in post #6, I see the fill tube has slots in it, when I checked on part number 5210ja2006b it also has slots in it...........What I did to stop the problem was to cover the slots apx. 1/2 way from the rear.....I used 'cold weather ' HVAC foil tape.... From what I gathered from these repairs was that water flowing into the tube splashed out of the slots ( on the fill tube) .........It may not work with your unit but it is a free fix.........



#27 plsbcheap

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Posted 02 December 2012 - 04:17 PM

Certified Tech, THAT is a great idea and definately worth a try.  It makes total sense of how the wather is getting down behind the wall.  I was calling it a chute because it is slotted on the top all the way down.  Theory is that the water pressure is too great or the valve releases it to fast and therefore it splashes when it first comes out.  I will also check on John's suggestion of turning down the pressure as necessary to see if that helps too.  I will do it tomorrow.

 

I love the free fix first because I just can't handle the ~$300 part to try the new board right now.. :-)  Thanks to everyone for continue the helpful advice and experience.



#28 plsbcheap

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Posted 02 December 2012 - 04:50 PM

 I checked on part number 5210ja2006b it also has slots in it...........What I did to stop the problem was to cover the slots apx. 1/2 way from the rear.....I used 'cold weather ' HVAC foil tape....

'cold weather ' HVAC foil tape....

PART NUMBER: 5210JA2006B the "chute" or tube.  Do you know if it comes out from from inside the freezer or do i need to take out the "port" or Water Inlet tube PARRT NUMBER: 5040JA2015A from the back of the freezer first?

 

And is the "cold weather" tape available at the big box stores?  I have the standard foil AC tape.

thanks



#29 certified tech group 51

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Posted 03 December 2012 - 11:23 AM

The foil tape is " Nashua 324A"  cold weather............................good stick stuff.............I use it for dryer venting/ducting..........................Covering holes/vents in evaporator panels  ( Whirlpool repair )..............I/M fill tubes.........I think it was purchased at a Home Depot or at Lowes........It is near the dryer/ gas water heater venting  section...........About $ 25 clams a roll..............................P.S.  do you have a service manual??...........It should indicate how to remove the 'fill tube'...In the R/C picture, there is just a flange, no mounting 'ears' or screw tabs.....  P.P.S....  OR,  just install from the front and reach in :thumbsup: .


Edited by certified tech group 51, 03 December 2012 - 11:30 AM.


#30 plsbcheap

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Posted 04 December 2012 - 10:39 AM

The foil tape is " Nashua 324A"  cold weather............................good stick stuff.............I use it for dryer venting/ducting..........................Covering holes/vents in evaporator panels  ( Whirlpool repair )..............I/M fill tubes.........I think it was purchased at a Home Depot or at Lowes........It is near the dryer/ gas water heater venting  section...........About $ 25 clams a roll..............................P.S.  do you have a service manual??...........It should indicate how to remove the 'fill tube'...In the R/C picture, there is just a flange, no mounting 'ears' or screw tabs.....  P.P.S....  OR,  just install from the front and reach in :thumbsup: .

I have the ST26905 manual that RegUS shared with me.  After looking through it the only thing I can find on this water tube is the last page, 165 shows the tube in a diagram where it connects to the port on the back.  So for now I will plan to roll it out and try to remove it first from the rear.  I may try to tape it from the front without removing it first.  I will assume you just "pull" it from the front and it pops out or if I remove the port from the rear  and pull it through the rear casing I should be able to easily remove it and tape it there.  I will definately post when I get in there.

thanks,



#31 plsbcheap

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Posted 24 December 2012 - 12:08 AM

Well..... I wanted to give an update: A few weeks ago I did all of the steps we talked about above (with the exception of replacing the $290 electronic board).  I pulled out the refridgerator and checked the incoming / supply water valve.  It seemed very hard pressure so I turned it down a bit and put it back on. (I actually made a quick video of the pressure and after turning it down but I don't know how to post that here...:-(.  After turning down the pressure and reconnecting I removed the pipe / chute from the back of the refridgerator and taped it up about half way down the pipe and replaced it.  I put the ice maker back in the refridgerator and turned it on.  For a day or two it seemed okay but I did start to see a little frost and ice forming.  A week or two later it is worse than it has ever been.  You will see frozen water everywhere on the ice maker.  Now it seems like the ice tray does not completely reseat level so when the water for ice comes down the chute it runs over into the freezer.  I don't know what to do next.  I am so frustrated with this LG and my inability to make it work right!  The pictures should tell the story pretty well.  After you see the one I reinstalled the pipe with tape on it you will see 4 pics that show the coil and down behind the wall below the ice maker.  I wonder if that has frozen water down in there.  I would assume thru the defrost mode it would eventually clear up if it has some ice formed.  But the next pic after the 4 coil shots show the the very begining of the ice drips and then they are progressively worse.  Any more ideas?

thanks,

 

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Edited by plsbcheap, 24 December 2012 - 09:46 AM.


#32 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 24 December 2012 - 08:16 AM

I actually made a quick video of the pressure and after turning it down but I don't know how to post that here...:-(.  

 

You don't-- upload it to Youtube and then post the link here.  The forum software will make it playable in-topic.  



#33 plsbcheap

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Posted 30 April 2013 - 09:36 AM

Well, UPDATE April 30th.  First let me say that all this started late in the summer and I tried and tried to fix it.  I was in bad health at the time.  Only to find out later (before Christmas) that I was actually suffering from the WEST NILE VIRUS!!  That explains my lack of focus in life!  I'm 100% now and the wife has been extremely patient. 

 

Back in December I did the taping of the tube (pictured above) slowed my water pressure down, bought a new water valve, etc.  The water freezing in and around the ice maker actually got much worse for the next month so I turned the ice maker off in January.  For a few weeks I thought I would just buy bagged ice and think through this for a little while.  I put it on the back burner, frustrated.  For the last couple of months I started noticing frost everywhere in the freezer.  No ice maker running, but defrost not taking care of all the moisture problems.  So does this tell you experts anything new that could be my problem?  I'm trying to avoid replaceing the main board but does this new info confirm that it is the board or something else?  A sensor?  I just don't know.  I am going to post some new pics this morning of the freezer.  The chute where the ice comes through the door very frosted up .  The exit chute in the main ice drawer is frosted heavy.  What to do next?

IMG_09752_zpsadd90c14.jpg

 

IMG_09762_zps698ab04f.jpg

IMG_0974_zpse0e43d75.jpg

 



#34 plsbcheap

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Posted 30 April 2013 - 09:43 AM

well.... almost imediately after my post I started examining the freezer and just realized that the little round door that shuts after ice drops through the door is stuck open!  That means for about two months the door has been open and letting air into the freezer.  I think that explains why I have all the frost in the freezer since I would assume the defrost can't keep up with all that air coming in.  This problem did not start until a month after I turned the ice maker off.  I'm sure someone put a glass under there for ice and somehow the door did not close and then got stuck open.  It seems to be closing now after several tries.

 

So what should I do next?  I think I will at least remove the tape from the tube because the water freezing in the icemaker area definately increased after I taped up the tube that the water drops into the tray through.  Any new (cheap) ideas to try to make my ice maker work again without going straight to the main board replacement?  I'm not even convienced that will fix this LG.  I already spent money on the water valve and it is no better.  Thanks!!



#35 MicaBay

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 09:29 AM

Is it plugged into a surge protector?

What are the temp settings? What is the actual temp inside freezer side? FF side?

#36 JJ Surfer

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Posted 03 May 2013 - 04:00 AM

Seems like there are multiple issues going on here. Has the issue with ice building up behind evap cover, causing er ff been resolved? The latest pictures of the evap area look normal. The other pics show spilling around ice maker, when you watch the ice maker fill is water splashing out? Does the flew tray come to rest flat or slightly twisted? Is it possible the dispenser door has stuck open before?

Oops I meant flex tray

Oops I meant flex tray

#37 plsbcheap

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Posted 03 May 2013 - 09:17 AM

Is it plugged into a surge protector?

What are the temp settings? What is the actual temp inside freezer side? FF side?

No surge protector.  A dedicated circuit to the LG ref/freezer.

What does the FF side mean?  The Freezer is set to -8 and actual reading is -1

 

Seems like there are multiple issues going on here. Has the issue with ice building up behind evap cover, causing er ff been resolved? The latest pictures of the evap area look normal. The other pics show spilling around ice maker, when you watch the ice maker fill is water splashing out? Does the flew tray come to rest flat or slightly twisted? Is it possible the dispenser door has stuck open before?

Oops I meant flex tray

Oops I meant flex tray

Yes... to the ice build up behind the plastic wall is resolved.  Notice one of the very early pics that shows the huge ice  formation near the fan.  Once that was removed the FF error goes away and never came back.  I think that "er" code is that the fan is not running.  The fan blade hits the ice formation slows, bump, bump, bump and finally stopped.  I don't recalled ever seeing the water splash out but it definately got worse (and ice forms faster) when I taped up the water fill tube.  I could start the ice maker again and watch for the flex tray to be slightly twisted. I can see how that is possible but not sure how/why it would not rest in the level position..?

 

I do not think the door has stuck open before.  You can always hear it shut when getting ice, After I turned off the ice maker I think one of the kids tried to get ice  and somehow the door hung open.  Acutally everyone who visits my home hits up the ice maker before I can say "get the ice out of a bag inside the freezer". :-)   That door haning caused all the frost issues which have now dissapeared since the door is closed.  I'm certain that the ice behind the wall (original problem) was not due to the dispenser door being open.  Shall I flip it "on" again and watch for splashing?



#38 JJ Surfer

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Posted 03 May 2013 - 12:07 PM

Er ff was definitely the fan getting blocked by ice, your earlier pic showing an ice block under fill tube makes me think the tape is a good solution for keeping water from splashing out of fill tube behind evap cover. I'm not sure why you have such an unruly fill tube, I know you changed the valve. What is the pressure going to the unit? I would push the test button on the ice maker and watch it fill carefully for splashing. Empty it and repeat a few times and let us know.

#39 plsbcheap

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 11:57 AM

I would push the test button on the ice maker and watch it fill carefully for splashing. Empty it and repeat a few times and let us know.

 

Okay and interesting update.  What I have noticed from hitting the test button a few times is that the ice tray does not always come back to a full horizontal, level position.  I don't really know why but my theory is that if it is not always level when the water comes down the fill tube, it may sometimes drip a little water off the back of the ice tray and thus the build up you see on the auger motor ledge right underneath the ice tray.  Maybe the tape I installed stopped the splashing behing the wall and above the evaporator but now when the ice tray does not sit level during a filling of H2O the drips build up and make a solid mess in the ice bin?? Seems logical.  Look at the photos I have taken the last couple of days during an ice cycle.  The ice is formed but it has not dumped yet.  Does the tray move slightly while in the freeze cycle or stay still until ready to dump?? While I have never caught it exactly at the right time in a "timed" ice dump to see if it comes back level, I can hit the test button and it goes almost all the way back, where in the photo before a dump (but frozen) it looks very "tilted" and unlevel.  If it ever fills in this position all of the water could not 100% reach the tray.  It would fall/drip off the back of the tray.  What tells the ice tray how far to rotate and how to rotate back to the level position?  Is there something evident I should replace?

 

Look on the ledge below the ice tray to see beginning fomation of ice...

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5-4-132_zpsf43f5c7f.jpg



#40 JJ Surfer

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Posted 07 May 2013 - 12:59 AM

I think you might need a new ice maker, it should be level when filled





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