Jump to content


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource for DIYers!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Photo

Kenmore 80 series 110.66812692 does nothing


  • Please log in to reply
10 replies to this topic

#1 diamondjake

diamondjake

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 6 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:don't drink

Posted 07 July 2012 - 07:12 PM

Greetings!

I have a Kenmore 80 series dryer (110.66812692) that just decided to die on me. I have done the following;

checked continuity on the thermal fuse, start switch, temp. control switch, timer, high limit thermostat, door switch, cycling thermostat, and the power cord; everything tested good.

I also checked the voltage at the wall outlet and that seems to be good, too.

I cannot get this dryer to do anything...please help!

Brian

Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#2 RegUS_PatOff

RegUS_PatOff

    Sensei

  • Academy Instructor
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 33,588 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Chief NTSC Black & White

Posted 07 July 2012 - 07:23 PM

Has this Dryer worked for you up till now at this location ?
Try this test:
While someone presses the Start Switch,
check the voltage from each side of the white Thermal Fuse to chassis (ground)
http://www.repaircli...PartDetail/2986

 

Thermal-Fuse-3392519-00882790.jpg


.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#3 diamondjake

diamondjake

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 6 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:don't drink

Posted 07 July 2012 - 07:28 PM

I replaced the door switch last week because it went out. But today, the same type of thing again - just died. Wife has been doing laundry all day, and when she went to start this load, it wouldn't start.

Forgive my ignorance, but can you explain in a little more detail how you want me to check the start switch?

#4 RegUS_PatOff

RegUS_PatOff

    Sensei

  • Academy Instructor
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 33,588 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Chief NTSC Black & White

Posted 07 July 2012 - 07:34 PM

not the Start Switch ...
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#5 Tim M

Tim M

    Kohai

  • Scholar of Appliantology
  • PipPipPip
  • 347 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 07 July 2012 - 07:36 PM

. He wants you to test the thermal fuse that is in the picture, not the start switch.

. Put one clamp of your volt meter onto the connection on one side of the pictured fuse, connect the other lead to something metal on the dryer. Press start and note the voltage. Now move the first lead to the other side of the pictured fuse, press start again, and note the voltage.

. Your old door switch tested no continuity when closed, right?

#6 diamondjake

diamondjake

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 6 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:don't drink

Posted 07 July 2012 - 07:52 PM

Sorry about the typo...I meant thermal fuse

I removed the wires from the thermal fuse, plugged the dryer in, put one lead on one side of fuse, the other lead on dryer metal - voltage read 00.0
Put lead on other side of thermal fuse, the other on dryer metal - voltage read 00.0

When I checked continuity on the door switch I put one lead on the right prong, the other lead on the left prong, shut the dryer door and got a reading of 00.7

#7 diamondjake

diamondjake

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 6 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:don't drink

Posted 07 July 2012 - 07:55 PM

I meant to add that during this test of the thermal fuse, my voltage read 00.0 when my wife pressed the start button

#8 RegUS_PatOff

RegUS_PatOff

    Sensei

  • Academy Instructor
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 33,588 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Chief NTSC Black & White

Posted 07 July 2012 - 08:24 PM

First, I didn't tell you to remove any wires ...
All voltage tests should be made with the devices connected unless otherwise directed.
I forgot to mention to set the Dryer Dial to a drying cycle . . .
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#9 diamondjake

diamondjake

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 6 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:don't drink

Posted 07 July 2012 - 08:36 PM

My apologies. I re-did this test according to the directions (old and new) and my voltage still read 00.0 when the start button was pushed.

I mentioned earlier that I checked voltage coming out of the wall, but I realized that I never checked voltage at the terminal block. Here are the results;
Right and Left - 42 volts
Left and Middle - 01.3 volts
Right and Middle 123 volts

I'm thinking this is my problem. New cord? New terminal block?

#10 RegUS_PatOff

RegUS_PatOff

    Sensei

  • Academy Instructor
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 33,588 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Chief NTSC Black & White

Posted 07 July 2012 - 08:44 PM

yes, that's your problem.. but there can't be any - negative voltages
Either loose connections (Nuts) on the Terminal Block
OR may be loose connections in the Wall Outlet
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#11 diamondjake

diamondjake

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 6 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:don't drink

Posted 07 July 2012 - 08:50 PM

Sorry, I shouldn't have used the " - " in my post. Nothing was negative on my reading. I carelessly used that symbol like one would create a list;
- item one
- item two
- item three

I will go purchase a new cord in the morning. Thanks to everyone for the help!




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."

The Appliance Guru | AppliancePartsResource.com | Samurai's Blog

Real Time Analytics