5 replies to this topic

[greesha]

We have a gwl11 washing machine
When emptying the water from the wash cycle, it gets to about 1/3 of the level, and quits dumping the water, and does not go into the rise cycle
and there is a burning smell. Any suggestions?

[RegUS_PatOff]

any Error Codes (flashing lights) ?
It may be a bad or clogged Drain Pump

[greesha]

any Error Codes (flashing lights) ?
It may be a bad or clogged Drain Pump

i found a spec sheet online with the instructions on how to go into diagnostics mode

Holding the power button and the wash temp down button at he same time
the first 5 lights of the "wash progress" are flashing

but I cant seem to be able to test anything, such as the drain pump or the cold/ hot switches

[greesha]

ok, i went into diagnostics mode again, i was able to turn the pump on using the regualr button, and drain all the water, but am getting that burning smell again,
then pressed the spin sped button so that hold and slow were lit, and got code #39, with the third wash light lit, the first rinse light lit, and the spin light lit.

so the pressure tube is blocked, crushed, or fallen off.

According to the gl03 manual i found:

Action
1. Check that the drain hose has not been kinked, squashed or blocked in any way.
2. Check length of drain hose. A 39" (1000mm) extension hose of the same diameter fitted to
the existing drain hose is the maximum allowable length.
3. If tub empty of water, remove pump from tub via the inspection hatch and check that it is not
blocked.
4. If tub contains water, attempt to rotate the pump by turning the pump fan. This may clear a
blocked pump. If this does not clear the blockage, then service pump from the top of the
washer by removing the cover and basket.
5. Check for open circuit windings in the pump. (Note: Pumps are fitted with a thermal cut-out
which will reset on cooling).
6. Check Pump Harness is connected correctly to pump.
7. Check continuity of pump harness.
8. Activate Pump by operating the washer in spin mode. Check Pump is rotating by viewing
through the inspection hatch. If not operating and Primary and Secondary checks have been
performed then replace Motor Control Module.


the drain hose is the black one coming out of the back of the machine correct? And how do I get to the pump?

[RegUS_PatOff]

sure sounds like a Drain problem or bad Pump
May have to wait for one of the FP masters to log-on.

[DADoESTX]

DO NOT run that machine any further until you replace the pump. A bad pump can zap the controller board, then you'd be faced with a much more expensive repair of board + pump.

Access to the pump is from beneath the machine. It mounts to the bottom of the outer tub toward the right side. NO tools needed. Do not remove the metal plate. Disconnect the pump wires (two wires on a plug, separate ground). Find a plastic latch on the plate near the pump head, hold the latch released and rotate the entire pump counterclockwise (as viewed from beneath) to detach it from the mounting plate.

If there evidence of leaking ... rusting or mineral deposits on the pump ... or the bearings are worn/binding, it MUST be replaced. There's a minor possibility that lint or strings could be wrapped around the impeller (or the shaft under the impeller) putting it in a bind.

Lubricate the seal face around the impeller with liquid detergent to facilitate rotating the pump into place when remounting.

Replacement pumps now include a retrofit fuse that is spliced into one of the pump wires in the console to help protect the board from getting zapped. Follow the directions carefully, the specific wire to be spliced depends on the model of machine.

SearsPartsDirect.com carries F&P parts. FisherPaykelParts.net and FisherPaykelParts.com (which are not related to F&P parent company). Also check eBay.

The pump is part number 479595. Sears currently indicates out-of-stock but they ship from multiple warehouse locations so it could be in at any time. FisherPaykelParts.com currently is running a sale price.