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Kenmore Elite Calypso 110.22062100 - Weirdness


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19 replies to this topic

#1 ggibeau

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Posted 18 July 2012 - 12:47 PM

(originally erroneously posted this in the Kitchen forum - probably due to lack of oxygen to my brain ;-))

Came home and loaded machine as usual.

Pushed the preferred cycle - no joy on the control panel.

Ensured outlet was still providing power (it is).

Removed back cover and was able to verify voltage up to P16 L1 IN and NEU IN - but did not get any readings at P16 at L1 TO MOTOR and SW NEU - looks like it may be a bad K1 - will order new board and see if that fixes the issue

And the saga continues. Obtained a new controller board - plugged it in and all was good. Ran a test run with no clothes - all went fine.

Put in some sheets, ran a normal load - ran for about 5 minutes and died - no response from board or controls.

Same symptoms as above (voltage up to P16 L1 IN and NEU IN - but did not get any readings at P16 at L1 TO MOTOR and SW NEU - looks like is blowing K1) (ordered some relays to at least see if my theory proves out)

Ready to throw in the towel and get a new washer (I have hated this thing from day one). Any recommendations on a GOOD top-loader that actually cleans the clothes ;-)

Thanks in advance

-George-

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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 18 July 2012 - 01:55 PM

did you do any of the automatic diagnostic tests ?
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#3 ggibeau

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Posted 18 July 2012 - 02:22 PM

Received the relays from Newark today - replace one on the original board. Control board now shows life ;-). But, I want to force it to drain the smelly water left from the last time it died. Still do not know what is causing the relays to fry.

Do not have the correct service manual to force diagnostic tests. The manual I have is for a Whirpool (mine is a Kenmore) - and the Kenmore does not have the Soil Level/Soak buttons to start diagnostics.

Ok - forced it to rinse spin;



  • Find the "Rinse/Spin" button next to the "Cycle" and "Stop/Cancel" buttons.



  • Press and hold the "Rinse/Spin" button until the indicator light illuminates next to the "Extended Spin" option.



  • Release the "Rinse/Spin" and press the "Start" button

    Ran for a bit then threw a CE error (Coomunications Error) - - will try to track this down (argh - going back to a stream and rocks ;-))

Edited by ggibeau, 18 July 2012 - 02:28 PM.


#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 18 July 2012 - 02:38 PM

Tech Sheet - 3954702.pdf
link PM'd
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#5 ggibeau

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Posted 18 July 2012 - 02:46 PM

thank you

#6 DADoESTX

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Posted 19 July 2012 - 09:11 AM

With power off, pressing Extend Spin directly as a cycle selection should run a drain/spin.

#7 ggibeau

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Posted 20 July 2012 - 12:25 AM

Per Tech Sheet - measured resistance between different pins on P6 on motor control board - reading did not match tech sheet table (all were higher) - - next step is to get to the drive motor and check drive motor windings.

Now I need to figure out how to get to the drive motor to check the motor windings ;-)

#8 ggibeau

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Posted 23 July 2012 - 08:56 AM

OK - I have the washer on its side and removed the bottom cover plate. The motor is held on by an X looking bracket - with 2 bolts on one side (removed) and 2 shock-absorber looking things on the other side (that I cannot figure out how to get loose). I cannot figure out how to get the plate off so I can get to the motor. Does anyone have instructions on how to get to the motor?

Thanks

-George-

#9 DADoESTX

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Posted 23 July 2012 - 12:46 PM

Place a 3/8" square drive of a ratchet wrench (or a socket extension) into the square hole in one of the X arms of the bracket. Turn the bracket 1/8 turn counterclockwise so the arms are at the corners of the mounting cavity. The bracket and motor can be removed.

Do the opposite to remount. Place the motor in the cavity with the wiring harness at the top (as if the machine was on the back, not the side). LOOP THE BELT AROUND THE PULLEY (it's impossible to mount the belt AFTER the motor is locked in position). Use the wrench or extension to turn the bracket 1/8 turn clockwise. Replace the mounting bolts, connect the wiring.

#10 ggibeau

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Posted 23 July 2012 - 08:36 PM

I hate to appear dense - but how will the bracket turn if 2 of the arms are still secured via the shock-absorber thingies (I am sure this is the correct technical term ;-))


EDIT - Never mind - was looking at the wrong bracket ;-) I see the square hole on the motor bracket - but it till not turn - - noticed rust on the bottom of the frame - so may have been a small leak - bracket may need some persuasion to move.

Thanks for the great tip...

Edited by ggibeau, 23 July 2012 - 08:47 PM.


#11 mark mac

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Posted 23 July 2012 - 08:43 PM

on either end of shock there is a black spring clip pull out and shock will release

#12 ggibeau

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Posted 23 July 2012 - 08:49 PM

I was wondering if I should pop those off or not - - thanks

#13 DADoESTX

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Posted 23 July 2012 - 10:36 PM

The larger X-bracket that covers pretty much the entire bottom of the mechanism, with a Torx nut in the middle and the shock absorbers attached, does NOT need to come off to remove the motor. Only the smaller black bracket directly under the motor is involved in removing the motor. There are a couple nuts on the motor bracket that need to come off before it'll turn.

[edited to add NOT]

Edited by DADoESTX, 24 July 2012 - 08:45 AM.


#14 ggibeau

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Posted 24 July 2012 - 09:18 AM

Was able to remove both motors with no problem once I learned the secret ;-) Will replace the main one and see if that helps.

Thanks to all...

#15 nickfixit

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Posted 30 July 2012 - 06:57 AM

It's super rare for the motor to be bad, how close were the winding readings to what the service manual said?
" Giving numerical data to Sears management is like giving a monkey a machine gun. No one knows for certain what will happen, but you can be sure of two things... It will be real messy, and only the monkey will be unharmed"

#16 ggibeau

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Posted 01 August 2012 - 01:31 PM

I have been out of town...sorry, do not remember what the readings were but they were not what was indicated in the service pamphlet. I have a new (verified working) motor - and will install that and see what happens.

#17 ggibeau

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Posted 05 August 2012 - 09:51 AM

OK - the continuation of the saga of George -vs- the Machine ;-)

Replaced the motor - still no joy. Ran some more tests, and it looks like the relay was blown (again). Replaced relay, and started to run diagnostics.

Machine would do all diagnostics and end with a Sr code (however, I was getting 123V on the motor controller side during the diagnostics. Ran some more tests, but could never get the unit to drain (fill and nutate were just fine). Ran the motor spin/drain test - and it failed. Now it appears that the relay is dead again (had to stop - was getting too hot in the garage).

Will run some more tests - but what would cause the relay to keep getting blown? All Ohm measurements seemed within spec (a little higher than the table on the diagnostics sheet - but only by about 3-4.

Any thoughts? (about ready to sell it for parts ;-))

Thanks in advance

#18 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 05 August 2012 - 12:38 PM

has the Motor Control Board been replaced ?
http://www.repaircli...rtDetail/949604

 

Motor-Control-Board-8541034-00649905.jpg


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#19 ggibeau

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Posted 05 August 2012 - 12:53 PM

That is the one thing I have not replaced yet - was going to see if there were ways to test it (had to take a break and have not made it back to the machine yet)

#20 telefunkenu47

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Posted 05 August 2012 - 08:37 PM

I beleive I may have a controller board for this out in my shed. if you pay the freight, its yours. There is nothing gratifying about working on the collapso. It was an ill conceived over engineered peice of crap. As far as im concerned finding a good top loader is like picking your favorite Menendez brother or democratic politician. ill pm you with my phone no.
Even root canal is easy...if you're a dentist...




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