18 replies to this topic

[richseattle56]

Pressure Switch is good, filler valve checks out. No kink or blockage in pressure switch hose.No voltage drop at fill valve on any temp setting, when timer is put to start of any wash cycle.. Bad timer?
I was told by a fellow tech that some Frigidaire stack units have a fuse on the washer case that when it blows stops the filler valve from getting current, but I can't find a fuse on this model. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Rich

Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, 27 July 2012 - 07:30 AM.

[RegUS_PatOff]

... No voltage drop at fill valve

no voltage drop ?
OR no voltage ?
Check voltage at each side of Water Valve to chassis (a good ground)

[Scottthewolf]

Only the older Maytag top loader washer stack units have fuses that stop the washer from filling when they blow, not the Frigidaires

[richseattle56]

I need help. Put new timer in it fixed the no water. But only hot water enters the machince and water will only enter the machince on pre soak. and it does not matter what temp setting you put it on.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Check the various switch postions of the temperature control switch in conjunction with the wiring diagram. You may find that the cold water path through the switch is open. ==> http://www.repaircli...umber=FEX831CS0

[richseattle56]

Washer does not fill in rince cycle either. Manual says "To check the voltage pin 6 to neutral." What is neutral?

I put the washer on the rinse cycle and get no voltage at the cold water plug of the fill valve.

Edited by richseattle56, 23 July 2012 - 06:43 PM.

[certified tech group 51]

What is the voltage at the timer, terminal for the cold water valve ?? Timer part number # 131758600

[richseattle56]

all the positions on the temp switch check out. Tried another timer still no go. THE SERVICE MANUAL SAYS IF NO WATER ENTERS THE WASHER IN ANY TEMP SETTING SET THE TIMER TO RINCE CYCLE AND MESSURE THE VOLTAGE BETWEEN PIN ONE OF THE PRESSUSE SWITCH AND NEUTRAL. IF NEUTRAL IS THE TERMINAL MARKED RO I GET 121V WHICH THE MANUAL SAYS THE PRESSURE SWITCH IS DEFFECTIVE. IS THIS PRESSURE SWITCH DEFECTIVE.

Edited by richseattle56, 24 July 2012 - 07:47 PM.

[RegUS_PatOff]

no voltage drop ?
OR no voltage ?
Check voltage at each side of Water Valve to chassis (a good ground)

[richseattle56]

Put the probes from meter in the plug, meter read 0. Put one to groung and one in plug 0.

[RegUS_PatOff]

Does the Timer Motor run ?
Does the Washer work in the Spin Cycle ?
L1 power for the Washer comes from the Dryer L1 Connector, then through the Overload on the Washer Motor

[richseattle56]

The washer spins but that is all it does

[RegUS_PatOff]

Does the Drain Motor run ?
the L1 power for the Drain Motor and the Water Valves (Black/Red wires) comes from
the M7 connection on the Washer Motor Thermal Overload

[richseattle56]

So it may be a disconected wire at M7 or a bad part?

[RegUS_PatOff]

So it may be a disconected wire at M7 or a bad part?

If the Drain Pump works, it wouldn't be a bad connection or bad part..
it may then be a broken wire somewhere ..

[richseattle56]

_{Ya the drain pump works.}

[richseattle56]

I gave up. Could not find a shorted or open wire.

Thanks for all your help.

[RegUS_PatOff]

did you do an OHM meter check between the Black/Red wire on the Water Valves
and the Black/Red wire on the Drain Pump ?

[jb8103]

"Gave up"? What does that mean?