9 replies to this topic

[tumblin'man]

Another high end appliance giving low end apprentice (me) a hard time...

Kitchenaid Refrigerator model # KSRA25FKSS00. The freezer will get super cold, like -25F, then both the freezer and fresh food compartment will get warm. The control board will beep every few hours due to warm temps, then the customer will press the overtemp button, and temperatures will eventually get very very cold in the freezer, then they will warm up again and the control board will beep again and then the customer will repeat the process.

I ran a diagnostic and the thermisters passed, the diffuser opened and closed, the evaporator fan is running.

Since the freezer is getting so cold, it can't be a refrigeration issue or a defrost issue, right? I think there is an air flow problem. Does this sound like maybe the diffuser is intermittently staying closed (causing cold temps in the freezer and warm temps in the refrigerator)? But if so, what would cause warm temperatures in the freezer and refrigerator at the same time later on (diffuser staying open when it should not?)

I could manually test the thermisters even though they passed the diagnostics.

Could the evaporator fan speed be varying enough to create this problem?

Maybe the return is iced up?

Please help, I don't know what to do on this one. Thanks

[certified tech group 51]

Do you have the K/A job aid # 4317324???? ..............It may help...............I would check the thermisters in ice/water.....At 32 deg. the Ohms. value should be around/appx. 8534.......( no Ohms. reading of 32 deg. I had 30 and 35 )..................Pg. 3 Freezer Thermister Failure ...If the freezer thermister fails, the compressor and the evap fan will cycle on and off together in 15 min intervals... keep us posted......

[tumblin'man]

Hi Certified. Thanks very much for your reply. I do have that Kitchenaid job aid #4317324. I will check the thermisters. One question. Can I check the thermisters at the control board, or should I cut the wires near the thermister (and of course splice them back after testing)? Thanks also for referring me to page 3 of the job aid regarding the thermister failure consequences.

[RegUS_PatOff]

... Can I check the thermisters at the control board

yes, as shown on the wiring diagram:
P4 1 (Orange) to 2 (Tan/White) Freezer Thermistor
P4 3 (Blue/White) to 4 (Orange) Fridge Thermistor

[tumblin'man]

Thanks Reg. Do you think that a bad thermister could cause the described symptoms?

[RegUS_PatOff]

... freezer will get super cold, like -25F
... then both the freezer and fresh food compartment will get warm.

1) what's the Fridge temperature at that time .. also, are both Display temperature readings valid ?
2) are the Display temperature readings valid at that time ?

could be one or both Thermistors
http://www.repaircli...tDetail/1057763

 

http://www.repaircli...tDetail/1059847

 

[tumblin'man]

When I was there, I measured -20F in the freezer and +36F in the fresh food compartment. I didn't note the display readings. I vaguely recall that they appeared to be only at the target temperatures of 5F and 35F, but this was after I had the refrigerator off for a while. I will be sure to note this when I go back, and I should make it a regular practice.

I think I understand your point, if the display temps are way off, then maybe the board is the problem.

I was not there to witness for myself the freezer and the fresh food compartment warming up, but the customer called last night and said that they were both warm.

I told him last night to tape the door light switches closed and call me today with the results. I will ask him when he calls back what the display temps say, and if they seem correct.

Thank you again, very much.

[tumblin'man]

The customer just called. Now his refrigerator is warm in both compartments and no longer cooling. His compressor is probably not running, but he thinks he is going to get a new refrigerator anyway. So that ends this saga.

He said that the display temperatures were the target temperatures, not the warm temperatures that he is experiencing now. Could this be a control board issue, and now the control board is not sending power to the compressor? If I could go out there right now I would test for power to the compressor.

Thank you for your replies, I always learn from the masters on this board and I sincerely appreciate your taking the time to read my posts and reply. I learned things on this thread that will help me going forward. Thanks again.

Edited by tumblin'man, 21 July 2012 - 02:18 PM.

[Scottthewolf]

9 times out of ten it's the control boards that go on these. The only brand of refrigerators I've had to replace the thermistors on are the GE refrigerators and that was due to a design flaw. Just my experience.

[tumblin'man]

Scottthewolf thanks for your reply. I spent a lot of time just thinking about which parts failing or freezing up would cause these symptoms, but nothing totally fit. I would have liked to have had a control board in stock just to have tried it out to see if the board was the problem. I'm going to remember what you said, both about the failing Kitchenaid control boards and the rarely bad Kitchenaid thermistors. Thank you again for helping me out. I hope I get another crack at one of these soon.