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wireyourworld

Whirlpool ET22DMXBW00 Fridge not cooling

47 posts in this topic

I got it off and took the back off again, yes the fan is working though the air flow doesn't seem that strong but I have nothing to base the opinion on. There was nothing blocking what I think were the air ducts, there is about a 4" x 1/2" slot under the insulation just in front of the evaporator on both the right and left sides. There was nothing blocking them on top, deeper I couldn't tell. I had turned the freezer down last night and it was not as cold in there today, though the ice cubes had froze so I guess it was cold enough. I put it all back together and still no breeze like there used to be in the fridge just a slight one.

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Inside of the freezer , floor separator...is there two screws near the front that will hold the separator in place, remove the fasteners lift up and pull out...IF no fasteners, floor stays........... worked on a few of these unit...good basic machines........Check the fans rotation, spins freely ????? or does it drag a bit............How long did the unit sit turned off????........days?? hours ??? Straty may be correct on the floor not being removable, but some times us techs see so many refers, that untill you set your eyes on them......The frost pattern looks suspicious, it looks good but look at the heat exchanger, frost on the return line........Check the compressor, did some one work on this?? is there access ports on the compressor???.............Slight over charge....

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Below is the frost pattern when I opened it up this morning. There were no screws under the floor, the floor did just pop right out. But underneath is a solid piece of styrofoam that doens't look like its supposed to move, no screws. I can only feel the air ports with my fingertips if I hook them right underneath the evaporator, and they were clear. The fan seems to spin freely. I'm sure someone has worked on it in the past but who and what they did I have no idea. We've only had it about 6 months and it was good up until a couple of weeks ago.

Edited to add, it hasn't been off for long as I have been working on it, its been on for months here with no trouble until recently. Your questions about the compressor access ports I don't understand.

7637408464_f6bd75c170_c.jpg

7637410388_9d015a7a98_c.jpg

Edited by wireyourworld

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The air duct to the refrig is the approx. 4" wide port directly behind the fan.

Turn the power off and remove the fan motor. Put a pan under the air diffuser area in the refrig area and then with a turkey baster run hot water down that channel directly behind the fan, (1/4" water line makes a good probe to slide down and try to break up any ice in that area as you're flowing the hot water down the channel).

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Ah ha! Thank you so much for that. I will do that in the next few days, actually have to focus on work until saturday since I lost alot of time on the fridge so far..

Actually went to lowes last night and they gave me enough credit to buy this http://www.lowes.com...1&rpp=16��which was the floor model, discontinued and I got it for $600 less than advertised on the site. Also got the extended service plan in case I bought a lemon. Now I just have to pay for it in under 6 months. Still surprised I got credit, I guess going without, working 2 jobs and making a little extra money selling online, fixing my appliances and vehicles using wonderful online forums and youtube to save money and pay all my bills on time since the recession started, has paid off. I guess if had really paid off I'd have $1500 cash on hand but lets not ask too much right? :-)

I do want to get the garage fridge running again so I definitely be trying to clear that back duct, it has been a great garage fridge.

Oh and I did actually have a refrigerator thermometer in my hands last night to buy, and set it down and forgot to buy it. Sigh.

Edited by wireyourworld

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Well I decided (since I can now take off and put back on that backwall pretty quickly) to give it a go this morning. No luck. I didn't have to remove the fan to get the turkey baster back there. The hot water flowed pretty freely, I think some ice may have fallen but it didn't help the air flow at all. The dial that moves that flap in the duct for the freezer works fine, but I don't see anything move when I turn the refrigerator dial. What exactly does that control? The evaporator showed normal frost by the way.

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Oh and yesterday I made sure the coils were spotless, and the compressor and fan are running and the compressor is hot to the touch but not too hot and not too cold.

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... The evaporator showed normal frost

evenly, completely, lightly frosted ?

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Yes.

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Ok the freezer is at 10 degrees, I'm guessing thats far too cold. Just thought I'd pop in and mention it before I go take the back wall off and see if I have something I can stick down that vent below the fan.

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Fridge should be about 40F

Freezer should be at about 0F

(depends how hard you like your ice cream)

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Well there is definitely nothing blocking that duct, I was able to run a water line from the bottom all the way up. Maybe I need a new fan? It spins but maybe its not forcing enough air down?

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all of the panels must be in place ..

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Yes I fully put everything back together before I checked to see if what I did helped, it didn't. Just holding my hand behind the fan while it was on, it didn't feel very strong. Then I put it all back together, just a very very almost can't tell its there breeze from the duct.

7647031494_9f104dd84a_c.jpgagain.

This was the frost pattern when I opened it earlier...

Edited by wireyourworld

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I'm not sure about that frost pattern ..

frost build-up may be from bad Door Gaskets / alignment

Button everything back up and check Fridge Freezer temps after 24 hours ..

(takes that long for temperatures to stabilize)

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2011/02/25/how-to-troubleshoot-warm-refrigerator-problems-by-reading-the-evaporator-frost-pattern/

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Well if that frost pattern example is whats going on with mine i prob have a refrigerant leak and have been wasting my time. Sigh. I will stay out for the fridge till tomorrow eve, not looking good though is it? the fridge door seal is strong. The freezer seal seemed strong enough but maybe not as grabby. No gaps around the seal though.

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That is a very strange looking frost pattern, not the looks of one that is low on freon????

Low on freon would generally just see the frost stopping at a row of the evaporator coil then from that point on the coils would just be moist and cool/sweaty.

Make sure the defrost heater isn't staying on while the compressor is running, make sure the fan is turning the correct direction, (which I believe would be CW from looking at the picture).

With the evaporator cover in place and the fan running do you get a good air flow coming out the ports at the top of the freezer, (the plastic fan shroud)? If the air is flowing out there then the fan is going in the correct direction and air should be also coming out in the refrig unless that air channel is blocked or the rod to the damper control in the refrig section has came loose and the damper is in a fully shut position.

Another thing to try is open the freezer door and see if air is then is able to be felt coming out the air diffuser in the refrig section. If this works then the return air channels are still plugged with ice. Did you let the unit sit opened and off for a couple days to make sure any ice that might be plugging any air channels had a chance to fully melt?

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair

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How do I check the defrost heater?

The fan is running in the correct direction (assuming the correct direction is blowing air toward the back), there is no air coming out of those top ports at the top of the freezer, nor out of the air diffuser in the fridge. This is what is leading me to think the fan has lost power.

I spent some time yesterday with a turkey baster, very hot water and a water line tube for poking and could not find any ice in that back duct leading to the fridge. I was able to push the water line from the port in the fridge all the way up through into the freezer with no resistance.

There is nothing obstructing the two holes that I assume are the return air ports, the 3-4 inch slots on either side of the back floor of the freezer that open into the refrigerator. No ice anywhere. Won't be able to do a full shutdown for a long period until the new fridge arrives and cools down. This one is still sort of keeping my condiments cool, prob should throw them all out and start over though, don't want to die of food poisoning.

The damper, which I assume is the one marked "freezer" and that opens and closes in that duct, is working just fine. I did ask yesterday what the refrigerator warmer/colder dial was supposed to do but no one has answered that yet.

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My opinion = as I wrote a couple of days ago, this is an air flow problem. If you do not feel air firmly blowing out that vent at the top of the freezer - and if you do not feel air blowing into the center of the fresh food seciton - and you've made sure that the ducts are not blocked with anything (which it sounds like you've done several times,) then the only thing it can be is the fan motor. It is likely running slow which those are prone to do when they are failing, and so you don't have the proper air movement. 10 deg in the freezer is because of improper air movement - that is exactly the temp I would expect in there with this problem. The evaporator is fully flooded - you can see that the bottom coils on the ends are well frosted - so the sealed system is OK. The weird frost pattern on the center lower parts of the evap are due to warm air migration up the return air ducts. Change the fan motor and be done with it. That's my story - and I'm sticking to it. Lol.

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Yay! Someone's opinion matches mine! :-)

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Evaporator Fan Motor 2169116
The manufacturer has replaced part number 2169116
with this item, part number 482731
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/2631

 

Evaporator-Fan-Motor-482731-00693021.jpg

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Seen plenty of this type of motor.............Shaded pole....... ( hundred year old technology, still good motors ) ......The fan blade will spin but at a reduced rate...The motor itself is not failing , it is the armature shaft bearings are going 'dry'.......The motor will not 'burn-up', ......The advantage of this motor is that it can be 'stalled' for a period of time and you remove the said 'stall' and it will start running again with out any problem...... Try adding a few drops of 'turbine oil' or a thin oil to the bearings...does the motor speed up????

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