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Whirlpool ET22DMXBW00 Fridge not cooling


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46 replies to this topic

#41 wireyourworld

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Posted 25 July 2012 - 11:09 PM

Well if that frost pattern example is whats going on with mine i prob have a refrigerant leak and have been wasting my time. Sigh. I will stay out for the fridge till tomorrow eve, not looking good though is it? the fridge door seal is strong. The freezer seal seemed strong enough but maybe not as grabby. No gaps around the seal though.

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#42 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 26 July 2012 - 08:01 AM

That is a very strange looking frost pattern, not the looks of one that is low on freon????

Low on freon would generally just see the frost stopping at a row of the evaporator coil then from that point on the coils would just be moist and cool/sweaty.

Make sure the defrost heater isn't staying on while the compressor is running, make sure the fan is turning the correct direction, (which I believe would be CW from looking at the picture).

With the evaporator cover in place and the fan running do you get a good air flow coming out the ports at the top of the freezer, (the plastic fan shroud)? If the air is flowing out there then the fan is going in the correct direction and air should be also coming out in the refrig unless that air channel is blocked or the rod to the damper control in the refrig section has came loose and the damper is in a fully shut position.

Another thing to try is open the freezer door and see if air is then is able to be felt coming out the air diffuser in the refrig section. If this works then the return air channels are still plugged with ice. Did you let the unit sit opened and off for a couple days to make sure any ice that might be plugging any air channels had a chance to fully melt?

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair, 26 July 2012 - 08:04 AM.

William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#43 wireyourworld

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Posted 26 July 2012 - 08:56 AM

How do I check the defrost heater?

The fan is running in the correct direction (assuming the correct direction is blowing air toward the back), there is no air coming out of those top ports at the top of the freezer, nor out of the air diffuser in the fridge. This is what is leading me to think the fan has lost power.

I spent some time yesterday with a turkey baster, very hot water and a water line tube for poking and could not find any ice in that back duct leading to the fridge. I was able to push the water line from the port in the fridge all the way up through into the freezer with no resistance.

There is nothing obstructing the two holes that I assume are the return air ports, the 3-4 inch slots on either side of the back floor of the freezer that open into the refrigerator. No ice anywhere. Won't be able to do a full shutdown for a long period until the new fridge arrives and cools down. This one is still sort of keeping my condiments cool, prob should throw them all out and start over though, don't want to die of food poisoning.

The damper, which I assume is the one marked "freezer" and that opens and closes in that duct, is working just fine. I did ask yesterday what the refrigerator warmer/colder dial was supposed to do but no one has answered that yet.

#44 Strathy

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Posted 26 July 2012 - 09:13 AM

My opinion = as I wrote a couple of days ago, this is an air flow problem. If you do not feel air firmly blowing out that vent at the top of the freezer - and if you do not feel air blowing into the center of the fresh food seciton - and you've made sure that the ducts are not blocked with anything (which it sounds like you've done several times,) then the only thing it can be is the fan motor. It is likely running slow which those are prone to do when they are failing, and so you don't have the proper air movement. 10 deg in the freezer is because of improper air movement - that is exactly the temp I would expect in there with this problem. The evaporator is fully flooded - you can see that the bottom coils on the ends are well frosted - so the sealed system is OK. The weird frost pattern on the center lower parts of the evap are due to warm air migration up the return air ducts. Change the fan motor and be done with it. That's my story - and I'm sticking to it. Lol.
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Servicing Southern Manitoba, Canada

#45 wireyourworld

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Posted 26 July 2012 - 09:41 AM

Yay! Someone's opinion matches mine! :-)

#46 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 26 July 2012 - 04:17 PM

Evaporator Fan Motor 2169116
The manufacturer has replaced part number 2169116
with this item, part number 482731
http://www.repaircli...PartDetail/2631

 

Evaporator-Fan-Motor-482731-00693021.jpg


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#47 certified tech group 51

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Posted 29 July 2012 - 12:10 PM

Seen plenty of this type of motor.............Shaded pole....... ( hundred year old technology, still good motors ) ......The fan blade will spin but at a reduced rate...The motor itself is not failing , it is the armature shaft bearings are going 'dry'.......The motor will not 'burn-up', ......The advantage of this motor is that it can be 'stalled' for a period of time and you remove the said 'stall' and it will start running again with out any problem...... Try adding a few drops of 'turbine oil' or a thin oil to the bearings...does the motor speed up????




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