8 replies to this topic

[Mark24]

I've owned a Staber washer for about 6 years. The Staber has been good for us, but I was disappointed that the rear bearing failed just short of 5 years. These were the original "add grease" bearings. Staber sent a new bearing set (this time they were sealed, no grease port) and I replaced them, but now the screeching whine has returned and I know what that means--imminent failure, and reaquantance with the clientel of our town laundromat.
I like the machine for many reasons, but (from the buzz online) this bearing problem is a real problem. I don't think we're doing anything wrong--the machine is level and I'm using Staber detergent (and only 1/2 oz per load, which is 1/2 of the Staber-recommended amount).
So, where to go from here?
A) I could buy the Staber bearing replacement kit ($150) which includes all seals, shafts, O-rings, etc to do the job. That's the replacement I did before, and I can't see why I should expect the bearings to last longer this time. No, thanks.
B ) Use the Staber bearing supports and replace the parts that really need replacing--probably the O-rings and the actual ball bearing assemblies. That will be a lot cheaper, and it offers the chance to make some improvements in bearing type, O-ring material, etc. And more tinkering.

So, some questions:
1) Any idea what is causing these failures? It seems to be a recuring problem, and not just with my machine I'm thankful that the bearings are replaceable at all (hey, it's a Staber), but why do they fail? From those who have serviced these machines, what's up? Material failure of bearing seals? Of O-rings? Design flaws in the way the bearing is protected from water intrusion?
2) How can I make a more permanent fix? I now have 2 sets of Staber bearing support assemblies (their part number 817239). One set has the grease fittings, one doesn't (for use with "permanently lubricated" bearings). So, I have some options.
Ideas:
-- Replace the current sealed chrome-steel bearings (which I think are type 6203-2RS, like this) with sealed stainless steel bearings (type S6203-2RS, like these). I'd use the bearing supports without the lube ports. If some water splashes into the bearing I suppose it still might wash out the lube, but at least the bearings wont rust, which think might pronlong their life a lot.
-- Replace current bearings with "dry lube" bearings (they have a dry polymer lubricant that is supposed to be resistant to washingout.
-- Use the old-style bearing suports (with the lube ports) and install open stainless steel bearings. This way I can keep the bearings lubricated (hopefully) and the bearings wont rust if water does splash in.

Thoughts? Other ways to make these bearings last in regular use?

I know Staber is popular with the Sensei and all us followers. Maybe we can find a way to make a very good product better for others who are on the enlightened Staber path.

Edited by Mark24, 02 August 2012 - 03:37 PM.

[Mr. Lee Fix]

While I am totally unfamiliar with Staber machines, I am more than familiar with bearings, and while mainly tapered rollers I have a rather experienced background. So, why don't you post pictures or at least info as to location, orientation and the mounting and I'll give you an evaluation.

Mr. Lee Fix

[Mark24]

So, why don't you post pictures or at least info as to location, orientation and the mounting and I'll give you an evaluation.

Thanks for the offer. It'll take me a day or so to take and post pictures, but I'll get 'em here.

[Mr. Lee Fix]

Also please, model number so that I may familiarize myself with the machine.

[RussTech]

Just google staber, as far as I can tell they make 3 models and they're all basically the same. I had never heard of them before either

[Mark24]

While I am totally unfamiliar with Staber machines, I am more than familiar with bearings, and while mainly tapered rollers I have a rather experienced background. So, why don't you post pictures or at least info as to location, orientation and the mounting and I'll give you an evaluation.

Mr. Lee Fix

General: My machine is a Staber HXW2304. It's a fine washer and is different from most designs. The inner tub spins on a horizontal axis (like a front loader) but the laundry is loaded through the top of the machine and a "hatch" in the inner drum. The inner drum is suported at the front and the back by spindles that go through bearing assemblies. The spindles support the inner tub, go through the wall of the outer tub, and are supported by the bearing assemblies bolted outside the outer tub. The machine is designed to be relatively low tech and servicable by the owner. It's a popular machine among those who admire the robust design and who don't mind opening up an appliance in order to fix it. It's been recommended by the Samurai before, and for good reason.

One apparent shortfall in the design (or the materials used) is in the bearings. Though the water level in the machine kept is below the spindles, suds and water get splashed up onto them, it makes its way past the seals and destroys the bearings. I'm on my second set of bearings and they are starting to go out (as described in my first post). I'd like to fix the problem and make improvements in the materials so it doesn't happen again, and I think others could benefit from anything we come up with here.

Specifics: Staber sells a complete bearing replacement kit (Part number 819801 -- $150--ouch!) that contains the front and rear housings (the "hub") and everything inside it: A seal (filled with grease, part number 811201) that goes against the outside of the tub, a sealed ball bearing (part #812201), a spacer (part #817249), and another ball bearing (same as previous #). (see drawing and photos below). On earlier units the hub has a lube port on the top, it leads to the spacer between the two bearings. Later models don't have the lube port in the hub, they are supposed to be maintenance free.

Specifics:
Here's an exploded diagram of the washer. My handwritten notes are the Staber part number for the items shown in the bearing assembly.
 Staber_ExplodedView.pdf   254.6K   2 downloads

The attached photos show:
 FrontofStaberWasher.jpg   54.97K   6 downloads
1) The front of the machine and the front bearing (located behind the drum pulley)
 DSCN5484Small.jpg   53.49K   5 downloads
2) A view of the rear bearing assembly removed from the machine. This is the view from the "outside", the rubber ring is the seal for the outer ball bearing
 Bearing AssemblyViewFromWaterSideShowingSeal.jpg   69.4K   6 downloads
3) A view from the "tub side" of the same bearing. The rubber ring is the seal that goes against the tub. The markings on the seal look like they say "D087 TC 22 40 7 TTO". I think that means its got a 22mm inner diameter, a 40 mm outer diameter, and it is 7mm thick.
 OuterRacesofFailedBearingsStillInPlace_ViewofInnerSeal.jpg   35.03K   8 downloads
4) A view of a different "hub" from the outside. The rubber seal is visible at the bottom, the rusty metal parts leading up from that are the outer races of the two (detroyed) ball bearings and the spacer between them.

So--ideas for improvements? Use bearings with solid polymer lube? Use stainless steel ball bearings to avoid rust/destruction if water does get in? Find a better seal than the one used here?

Note: A previous post with the info above was lost.

Thanks to all for your assistance.

Edited by Mark24, 05 August 2012 - 01:32 PM.

[RegUS_PatOff]

... Note: A previous post with the info above was lost.

this post ?
in the Service Manual Request forum ?
http://appliantology...staber-hxw2304/

[Mark24]

this post ?
in the Service Manual Request forum ?
http://appliantology...staber-hxw2304/

Nope, I had put it in this thread. I think it never "took" because I'd included an embedded graphic (the exploded diagram of the washer) that was prohibited (size?). I didn't get an error notice, it just didn't post.

I'm getting used to the way this forum software handles attachments. It's a little awkward still.

[RegUS_PatOff]

you can post pictures and videos to other media sites (YouTube / photobucket / flikr / etc)
then post the links here